Cap & Ball brass frames

I would say that if this revolver is new and it is for your personal use...you will not see the end of it... I had one for many years and it was fine til I sold it...the loading is a bit more finnikee/complex than a cartridge revolver therefore you will not put a tremendous amount of shots through it...
 
I cannot give you a number count, but from what I have read, the word is that brass frames will eventually stretch.
Also, a Colt does not have a top strap, while a Remington New Army does. That is bound to make a difference.
I have a steel Rem NA, so I'm OK, but as Jacques says, most don't put nearly enough through it worry. I sure haven't fired it enough.
 
I have a Colt open top Brass frame and an 1858 Remington brass frame.
The Colt open top brass frame is not historically accurate as I have read.

What I have n9oticed is that if you keep the powder charge to a proper level, then there will be no problems. But when exceeding the powder charge, the frame screws seem to be the last thing to worry about.
I have had some revolvers lose there "halfcocked" capability due to some sort of falure for instance.
 
what will damage a Colt first is heavy charges which will crush the barrel key. It has a groove down the center of the retaining screw head and this alloys the key to crush.

cheers mooncoon
 
marba said:
How many rounds can a brass cap and ball framed revolver can handle before it starts to stretch the frame?? thanks marba
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It depends on the charge. It may be noticable sooner with heavy(maximum) loads, but I imagine it will happen with every shot.
44's will probably loosen faster than 36's because of the heavier forces exerted.
When the barrel/cylinder gap becomes excessive, use a wider wedge.

I bought a brass framed 44 with a large gap and the wider wedge fixed the excess.
It is a Safari Arms by Pietta(I think), I don't know its age so can't tell how long it took to get that way. The price reflected its condition. KD
 
Thanks ,I have steel frames and I just bought a brass for my dad, by for years I've been told to keep my distance from brass frames ,that they are just for SHOW .But, they make alot of brass frames revolvers in the cap and ball ,so are they that bad if you treat them well??? I just don't know ??? But thanks for the info. MARBA
 
marba said:
Thanks ,I have steel frames and I just bought a brass for my dad, by for years I've been told to keep my distance from brass frames ,that they are just for SHOW .But, they make alot of brass frames revolvers in the cap and ball ,so are they that bad if you treat them well??? I just don't know ??? But thanks for the info. MARBA
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Not really an answer but ask how many brass framed C&B revolvers Samuel Colt made?

I understand there were some unlicensed copies built for the Confederate side with brass frames but Colts are STEEL.
 
Afriend's brass framed Colt Navy repro was useless in about 4 months.The ring on the recoil shield that the cylinder recoils against quickly became peened out of existance,giving him 1/8" cylinder/barrel gap, and no accuracy.The wedge/pivot pin/barrel junction never loosened, those parts are all steel.The Confederates figured a revolver that held up long enough to shoot 10 or 12 cylinders was good enough, since the cavalryman using it would probably have--[A] Captured a real Colt or Remington by then or Been killed.
 
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