Caplock ==>Cleaning Lock?
- Thread starter WolfyW
- Start date
I have heard of people doing it after every session, but to my mind that just increases the chances of damaging the gun .... if only by eventually buggering up the screwheads and such. On a good quality muzzle-loader, the lock-to-barrel and wood-to-metal fit should be tight enough that little or no fouling can get into the lock. When I shot muzzleloaders regularly, I seldom removed a lock for cleaning inside .... maybe once a year or so .... then oiled it well before reassembling, so the wee bit of fouling which might creep in would do no damage.
(Mind you if you are using water-based cleaners, and some of that runs in behind the lock, you'd best remove it, dry well and re-oil.)
(Mind you if you are using water-based cleaners, and some of that runs in behind the lock, you'd best remove it, dry well and re-oil.)
NorthCoastBigBore
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Northwest BC (Rural) 103-I-##
I pop mine after every shoot - they are designed with that in mind (OK mine are anyway - not all of them are). Just be careful. Easily done, not that I get much powder residue in the lock itself but it makes cleaning the hammer easier if nothing else (and without getting water in the stock/behind the lock as Grant R indicates - sorry his post showed up as I was typin' - if it's not a hook breech anyway).
Last edited:
- Location
- Algoma region
In my opinion, clean the tube, and then unscrew the nipple clean it out and oil both the nipple and the tube, wipe and oil the hammer.
Little pressure grease on the nipple threads.
Little pressure grease on the nipple threads.
All good posts, thanks. Was out shooting my new baby today. Stopped at the store for more supplies. Being the only customer at the time, I had a chance to chew the fat.
The gunsmith mentioned something about eventually cleaning and lubing the lock because "stuff can get in there, too". Rather than tie him up further I decided to ask right here.
All part of being a newby.
BTW, my barrel hooks in there...Lyman Deerstalker. I removed it to bathe it.
The gunsmith mentioned something about eventually cleaning and lubing the lock because "stuff can get in there, too". Rather than tie him up further I decided to ask right here.
All part of being a newby.
BTW, my barrel hooks in there...Lyman Deerstalker. I removed it to bathe it.
No idea how often to clean then but I bought a used CVA Hawken and the lock internals were so gummy it was screwing with the gun, it was NASTY!
Hokey! Is that all primer crud ??
I have no idea what it was but it was THICK like tar! I had to soak it in Crud Cleaner first until it was spotless then lightly lube the mechanism. Works perfectly now!
add me to the list of remove and clean after every session with a qualification. If I expect to be shooting the next day, I generally semi clean the barrel and oil it but often leave the lock in place. Otherwise I wash it in hot water to remove any residue under the hammer and on the hammer, dry with a paper towel and leave it on top of the hot water tank overnight then oil
cheers mooncoon
cheers mooncoon
With most percussion muzzle-loaders, hammer at half-#### is best.
With the lock full cocked there is too much chance that the lock will "fire" as it is being removed. If the hammer is fully lowered, the cupped hammer face which most guns have will be down over the cone of the nipple, thus interfering with the lock coming straight out from the lock mortise as it should .....
With the lock full cocked there is too much chance that the lock will "fire" as it is being removed. If the hammer is fully lowered, the cupped hammer face which most guns have will be down over the cone of the nipple, thus interfering with the lock coming straight out from the lock mortise as it should .....
