Carcano Conversion - 7.62x39 with detachable magazine (Pic Heavy Post)

pvtc

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I finally finished a project I've wanted to do for some time - a scout style rifle in 7.62x39 Russian.

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The donor rifle was an old Eatons Cooey Carcano in 6.5x54MS calibre. The old stock was crap, but the metal bits were all in good+ condition. Rather than retain the Carcano enbloc feeding system, I choose to convert it to magazine feed while I was at it. Turns out that Norinco JW-103 magazines fit in the Carcano mag well with minimal metal work. I used a two-groove barrel from a stripped Lee Enfield No 4 Mk 1 action I had laying around, and re-chambered it using a PTG 7.62x39 SAAMI spec reamer. I retained the barrel stub from the Cooey conversion, and threaded the new barrel into that until I reached proper headspace. The rear notch of the JW-103 magazine design allowed me to modify the Carcano's clip latch to act as a magazine latch. All I had to do was fabricate/harden a small triangular piece and silver solder it to the latch. I cut down and shaped the original follower housing to make room for the magazine. At the rear of the trigger guard I welded in a small metal block to provide just the right opening for the magazine. Because the 7.62x39 cartridge is shorter than the original cartridge, I made a spacer out of Delrin for the front end of the mag well. The top of the spacer is contoured to guide the rounds into the chamber. I also re-contoured the bottom and rear of the trigger guard on my mill, both to reduce weight and give it a more sporting appearance. I decided to swap the Cooey double-set trigger for a regular two-stage military one.

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Once fabrication was complete, I zinc parkerized the re-barreled action and finished it in KG Gun-Kote (spray on, heat cured finish). By mixing flat black, gloss black and gun metal blue Gun-Kote, I was able to adjust the colour/sheen to match the finish on a 2.5 x 30mm scout scope I bought for this build. I modified a Weaver scope mount designed for a T/C Contender. The front of the base had the perfect contour for the barrel diameter, but the rear end needed some inletting on my mill to make it fit. I drilled/tapped one 8-40 screw into the existing rear sight base on the barrel stub, and drilled/tapped two more screws into the barrel well past the chamber. A little blue Loctite, and it's not going anywhere. The finished barreled action was hand fit into a walnut Ria stock from Boyds, free floated and glass bedded. The stock was hand finished to a satin sheen with multiple coats of polymerized tung oil from Lee Valley.

I am very happy with the end result. With the scope and an empty magazine, it weighs just shy of 7 lbs. With careful hand fitting, it feeds, extracts and ejects perfectly.

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Given that I was recycling a first world war rifle and second world war barrel for this project, I figured I should be happy with "minute of pie plate" accuracy at 100m. Therefore, I was quite surprised with the results from my first trip to the range. After a few warming/fouling rounds, I was able to get a four-shot .695 inch group at 55m using American Eagle/Federal 124 gr FMJ ammo (with one flyer). I shot several follow-on groups that were not quite as tight, but still good enough to take a white tail. I plan to test several more loads at 100m distance on my range next trip. I'm hoping to find a load that will allow me to get 2 MOA (or less) consistently.

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All in all, a fun project with results that exceeded my expectations. Now, what to do with that other Cooey Carcano and pile of parts in my basement...
 
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Nice work.
So is a .311-.314 barrel a better choice for a 7.62x39 conversion than a .308, or is just a matter of what you happen to have on hand?
 
Congratulations, you did a very nice job on that rifle. I'm sure you will get a lot of pleasure out if it.

Those Carcano actions are a lot tougher than most realize. You should be able to load 150 grain bullets to some pretty decent velocities in it as well. That may cure your flyer problem if it insists on being an issue.

You just may be slightly over stabilizing the 125 gr bullets.
 
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Nice work.
So is a .311-.314 barrel a better choice for a 7.62x39 conversion than a .308, or is just a matter of what you happen to have on hand?

most 7.62x39 barrels are .310"-.311" only guns that come with a .308" bore are the mini 30 rifles most surplus bullets are over .310" and have a steel alloy jacket(a very soft steel but still steel)
 
As a carcano fan and also enjoy the littlex39mm round you did an outstanding job....... probably the most beautiful milsurp. let me say SCOUT RIFLE I have seen on cgn.
OLDcol. JEFF COOPER would be pleased!!!!!! POPS
 
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Very nice job. I like the idea of using the Norinco magazine.

Several years ago, SMELLIE and I were discussing the Carcano, and since I had several of them, a lot of time on my hands, boredom, and a 2000 square shop to play in, I decided to make one up. An old .303 barrel was and a beat up Cooey Carcano provided the donor parts rifle. A look at the dimensions of the .303 cartridge revealed that the 7.62x39 was very close to the chamber size if the back end of the barrel was cut off leaving part of the chamber. The rim diameter of the cartridge fits the Carcano bolt and some steel Carcano en-bloc clips held the 7.62x39 cartridges.

With a bit of experimentation, a Derlin block was made for a magazine spacer and the clips were bent slightly to retain the 7.62x39 cartridges. The original Cooey stock and double set trigger mechanism was used, but yours is a LOT prettier. It shot very well with 150 grain handloads.

The things we do during a Manitoba Winter to help pass the time and not succumb to cabin fever!
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Congratulations, you did a very nice job on that rifle. I'm sure you will get a lot of pleasure out if it.

Those Carcano actions are a lot tougher than most realize. You should be able to load 150 grain bullets to some pretty decent velocities in it as well. That may cure your flyer problem if it insists on being an issue.

You just may be slightly over stabilizing the 125 gr bullets.

Yes, I was thinking the same thing about the .303 barrel's twist rate. I'll work up some 150 gr hand loads once I can find some .311 or .312 dia bullets in that weight. I might even try some cast bullets with gas checks
 
Nice work.
So is a .311-.314 barrel a better choice for a 7.62x39 conversion than a .308, or is just a matter of what you happen to have on hand?

most 7.62x39 barrels are .310"-.311" only guns that come with a .308" bore are the mini 30 rifles most surplus bullets are over .310" and have a steel alloy jacket(a very soft steel but still steel)

I agree with antiqueguy. If you use a surplus .303 barrel, the closer to .311 dia bore (grove-to-grove) the better. There are special chamber reamers with a gentle leade that will allow the use of ammo with .310 bullets to work in a .308 barrel (this is what Ruger used). Essentially, upon firing, it gradually swages the bullet down to bore diameter without building dangerous pressures. However, if you cut the chamber with a regular SAMMI spec reamer with a steeper leade on a .308 barrel you risk greatly increasing chamber pressures with possibly nasty results.
 
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I have been toying with the idea of converting an already bubbaed, nothing matching Lee Enfield to 7.62x39 for a while now and I am thinking something different. I have been reading about cutting the chamber end of the LE barrel and firing the 7.62x39 without doing any reaming. My question is, is it possible to cut a little less off the barrel and have the base of the cartridge fit flush with the end of the barrel and cut a notch for the extractor similar to the original thus eliminating the need to add a ring to the LE bolt head. I`m thinking a person could add the spring loaded pin to the left side of the bolthead to act as an ejector like a savage rifle has.
A barrel nut could be used to get correct headspacing and the extractor notch could be cut after headspace is correct and the barrel position marked on receiver.
I`m also thinking that the mag from a Norinco JW-103 7.62x39 could be made to fit neatly inside a LE mag and soldered or welded in place after it has been fitted for proper feeding
Any ideas anyone? I already know that it would be easier and maybe cheaper to buy a new rifle than to pay to have the work done.
 
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