Some good info so far, but here's a couple more things to think about....
Replace the nipples on any C&B revolver you purchase with Treso nipples, available from Thunder Ridge and others. These fit the Remington #10 cap very well. They also have a small flash-hole which minimized the backpressure coming back up through the hole and causes a lot of the spent cap jamming problems.
Colts actually tend to handle the cap fragments better than the Remingtons because the open frame lets the fragments fall clear. You can also get a hammer shield installed which reduces the opening around the hammer to a minimum and stops debris from falling into the action through that opening.
Remingtons tend to be easier to handle in matches since they are very quick to change cylinders. Unfortunately, they don't have a basepin bushing at the front of the cylinder to stop BP fouling from getting onto the basepin. Use of Pyrodex or 777 reduces this problem, or just pull the cylinder after each stage and give it a quick wipe with MooseMilk (Ballistol/water) or Windex with Vinegar.
Ruger Old Armies are definitely the way to go if you want reliability at the expense of authenticity, with the stainless ones getting the nod for ease of cleaning.
I find it takes me less time to strip and clean my 2 Old Armies after a match than my Uberti Cattlemen, since I don't have to clean the brass.
My latest find has been the EPP-UG bullet (mold available from 3w.biglube.com). This is a conical that weighs the same as the round ball, and carries a plentiful supply of grease/lube. This negates the mess of lubing over loaded chambers, and the expense of Wonder Wads. Combined with the cylinder loading stand available on the same site, it's a very slick setup.
BoreSnakes combined with the aforementioned MooseMilk, used during a match, make cleanup at the end of the day almost easier than cleaning my guns after using smokeless.