CAS coach gun

At the ranges you will be shooting at in CAS, any light target loads should be ok, if you have trouble knocking down the steel targets, standard loads should do it. I use a Rossi Overland coachgun
 
The problem is that I have shot Winchesters that I got in 100 rds bulks at Canadian Tire they work great they slide right out of the chambers when I open the receiver but they make the receiver difficult to open. I have also tried Federals in 100 rds bulk packages from the same store, the gun opens really easy but the rounds bon't slide out. Someone suggested I try the Win AA thinking it might work. That is where I'm at.
 
The problem is that I have shot Winchesters that I got in 100 rds bulks at Canadian Tire they work great they slide right out of the chambers when I open the receiver but they make the receiver difficult to open. I have also tried Federals in 100 rds bulk packages from the same store, the gun opens really easy but the rounds bon't slide out. Someone suggested I try the Win AA thinking it might work. That is where I'm at.

then use a Winchester in one barrel and a Federals in the other barrel and it should and get the best of both worlds :p:p
 
you need to polish the chambers so the rounds slide out easier. The problem with inexpensive rounds is they expand quite a bit when fired. The AA rounds don't expand as much so they should slide out easier
 
Get a small brake cylinder hone,
and lube with WD-40 and
pollish out your chambers.
The shells will fly out when you jerk the gun back
with action open.
Will work for 12 gauge,
not sure about 20 gauge.
 
I have used an empty shell, took out the primer, put a bolt and nut, glued ver very fine sandpaper (don't remember the grit, though) and polished the chamber with this "tool" and a drill...
 
I polished the chambers of my first double with an electric drill, a wooden dowel and steel wool. Worked great. I currently have a 12 gauge chamber Flex Hone that I got from Brownells, since I keep buying shotguns for CAS. I got my "AA's" from Bass Pro which I save for my fiancee in case she needs the 12 double and I use the Federal #6's from Canadian Tires as my standard load in my M97. I use #6's as some of the matches I shoot have steel reactive targets and I like to have a bit larger pellet hitting them in order to put them down.
 
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Yup, the hone goes in the cordless drill.
Very little effort required.
Use on higher speed, moving hone slowly
up and down chamber.
Near the end of a match, if i notice shells sticking abit,
its usually crud build up.
I throw a bore snake down barrels for quick cleaning.
I shoot a variety of shells now with no problems.
Before it was brand fussy for clean extractions.
 
you need to polish the chambers so the rounds slide out easier. The problem with inexpensive rounds is they expand quite a bit when fired. The AA rounds don't expand as much so they should slide out easier
+1....Polishing the chambers is your best all around solution...
 
Frenchy:

Another way is to buy a brass brush of the right bore, wrap steel wool around it, then use some course valve grinding compound followed by fine compound. Attach this to the end of your cleaning rod and away you go. You can buy the valve grinding compound at Canadian Tire. I did it by hand, an electric drill cuts too fast and builds up heat, or at least that is what I was told. Rotate and move in and out as you grind away. Obviously clean well and check with a fired shell every once in a while as you go along.

It will take a few hundred cycles to get it right, but in the end it will look like a mirror in the chamber.

Niagara Glenn
 
The idea of a lube that is fluid is to flush/keep the stones clean
so they dont load up with metal that is being removed,
and also keep temps low on chamber metal.
It flush's the very small amounts of the metal being removed
out of the way allowing stones to do their work.
A light oil would also work.
 
Frenchy:

Another way is to buy a brass brush of the right bore, wrap steel wool around it, then use some course valve grinding compound followed by fine compound. Attach this to the end of your cleaning rod and away you go. You can buy the valve grinding compound at Canadian Tire. I did it by hand, an electric drill cuts too fast and builds up heat, or at least that is what I was told. Rotate and move in and out as you grind away. Obviously clean well and check with a fired shell every once in a while as you go along.

It will take a few hundred cycles to get it right, but in the end it will look like a mirror in the chamber.

Niagara Glenn

I also used the brass brush with steel wool around it however, I didn't use any compound but I used the cordless drill. Then I saturated a 12 ga mop with chrome polish, hooked it to the drill and polished the snot out of it. Cleaned the barrels and the chambers were like glass.
 
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