CAS; want to get started

Well I'm going against the trend again here, I believe that folks should use period correct calibers even though the rules allow the modern .38 Special, however I also believe that Black powder should be used. My pick is to use the same cal./loads in the rifle as the handgun and since the .45 Colt's was never meant to be used in a rifle, so I'd want a revolver and '73 clone in 44/40 wcf, whether BP or the dreaded smokeless.
 
Ben
One of the more appealing aspects of our game, as per SASS, is that it is a cowboy fantasy. Everyone is entitled to participate in the way that they choose, as long as they follow the rules of their category. Many of our older shooters can no longer handle the recoil of large calibre loads or loads of black powder. We try to be inclusive. There is another Old West shooting organization, called NCOWS, that is period correct, they are more like re-enactors than the SASS affiliated clubs.
BTW the 38 colt was one of the more prolific cartridges on the frontier.
 
Your also right about more Marlins shutting down in mid-stage. But there is also 6 or 7out of every 10 rifles that come to the line are Marlins.

I still think that for a new shooter that does'nt reload a Marlin in .38 is a better choice (unless cost is not an issue, because the Uberti and factory 44-40 are much more costly).


Well I have put at minimum of 12,000 rds through my Marlin M1894S, in .44 mag since 1996 and all I have done is polished the chamber, changed from a semi wadcutter bullet to RNFP and replaced the front and back firing pin (somewhere after 8,000 rds). The breakdowns that I see are from Uberti, and Alonzo knows the one I mean. If you want a real junk rifle, buy a post 64 Winchester M94 lever action in a pistol caliber!
 
Well I have put at minimum of 12,000 rds through my Marlin M1894S, in .44 mag since 1996 and all I have done is polished the chamber, changed from a semi wadcutter bullet to RNFP and replaced the front and back firing pin (somewhere after 8,000 rds). The breakdowns that I see are from Uberti, and Alonzo knows the one I mean. If you want a real junk rifle, buy a post 64 Winchester M94 lever action in a pistol caliber!

Methinks you missed my point--the point being that more Marlins apear to jam or break but that is only because 2/3 of the guns at the line are Marlins (the law of averages so to speak).
We have 2 Marlins that my wife use-- one has many thousand of rounds through it, the other only a couple thou so far, both work fine although the old one started to jam after a few thou untill I found her sweet spot for cartridge o.a.l.and she works good now. Both have only been slicked up & springs set lighter-no repair parts at all.

My order of preferance; Uberti-Marlin-Chapparrel-------92----------------94

My wifes; Marlin all the way
 
For shotgun ammo, since the majority of the targets only have to be hit and not knocked down, go with a nice cheap 12 gauge in 7 1/2 or 8 shot. A lot of ladies I shoot with use a 20 gauge.
 
Just to expand on my thoughts....I believe that allowing small cals. like the .38 Spl. and smokeless, none of which was around back then, leads to an equipment race, makes the game less fun because people get too serious. The best way to weed out the modern equip. junkies is to make the steel targets harder(heavier) to knock over, this would force those using powder puff loads in the .38 Special to rethink the "need for speed".
 
Ben
How does the way I or anyone else play the game intrude on your fun. CAS is played in many different ways by many different competitors. For one person to try to impose their likes and beliefs on everyone else seems selfish. As to no small calibres being around, maybe you should study history. Never mind that pocket pistols in small calibres were extremely popular on the frontier, or that 36 calibre Navy Colts were documented as used by no less Bill Hickok, if you bother to read Colt factory records, the 32-20 was the 3rd most popular chambering of the famous SAA. Many single action Smith and Wessons and also Merwin and Hulberts, to name a few, were available in 38 Colt and 38 SW as well as 32. Now I agree that smokeless was not around in our preferred time period, however we also have categories for competitors who like the holy black. Setting steel targets to a standard that can not be knocked down with a SASS legal cowboy load is not only unfair, you would soon not have many participants other than those in you own circle.SASS and CAS tries to be inclusive.
One of the reasons that CAS as per SASS is the fastest growing shooting sport in the world is that participants are allowed to compete in their own fantasy.
I sincerely hope that you rethink your arguments.
 
I'm curious about holsters, I like the strong side with crossdraw configuration but I also notice that a lot of the faster guys are using double strong "Evil Roy for one" anything anyone can offer would be appreciated.
 
I use a Rossi 92, Marlin 94CB and a Marlin 94C in .357 using Trail Boss powder and 158gr semi wad cutter with .357 brass. I usually interchange during a shoot. They all work but, the Marlins are OAL sensitive however once you find the right OAL they work fine.

If you are looking for inexpensive CAS revolvers check out Marstar's Piettas. For inexpensive CAS gun leather check out Cabela's (US not CA) online, service is excellent.
 
Brass over-all-length?
I read something about that fact and Marlins. I also read that Ubertis and other clones aren't as OAL sensitive but they require much more work to get them slicked up. Plus some (Uberti) are quite a bit more expensive, (Chaparral) are a lot less.
 
Brass over-all-length?
I read something about that fact and Marlins. I also read that Ubertis and other clones aren't as OAL sensitive but they require much more work to get them slicked up. Plus some (Uberti) are quite a bit more expensive, (Chaparral) are a lot less.

Chaparral has been getting a bad rep on the SASS and CAS City sites due to alleged lack of quality of their product however, several CAS members have had good luck with Chaparral guns.

Depending on which character I portray on a particular shoot, I use either Ruger New Vaquaros (faux ivory grips) or my Pietta (wood grips).

All my guns are right out of the box however I put a cowboy spring in my Marlin 94CB making it so that you can lever it with one finger (not that I do of course).
 
Over-All-Length.

Overall length of the complete cartridge. Cross draws are fun, a lot of shooters use them, but keep in mind that if you don't do "the dance" while drawing your handgun properly, you stand a good chance on being DQ'd depending on the club. This is not a problem with 2 strong side holsters. I've seen people squat down wearing a cross draw for the sake of the scenario and the shooter lost his revolver. With a cross draw you have to be even more safety conscious. Just my $.02 worth.
 
Overall length of the complete cartridge. Cross draws are fun, a lot of shooters use them, but keep in mind that if you don't do "the dance" while drawing your handgun properly, you stand a good chance on being DQ'd depending on the club. This is not a problem with 2 strong side holsters. I've seen people squat down wearing a cross draw for the sake of the scenario and the shooter lost his revolver. With a cross draw you have to be even more safety conscious. Just my $.02 worth.

You 're confirming what I thought, staying within that 170 degree would mean a bit of a dance. Allthough the cross draw looks easier,safety wise it certainly will be better to go with a double strong side holster. Ever since I started learning about CAS I'm amazed at the complexity. I guess that since I have to wait until I've upgraded my PAL to RPAL to buy my SA, using the time to learn as much as I can will save me a bunch of money and headaches.
Thanks for the info!!!!
 
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