Case Hardening

tokguy

tokguy

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Has anyone here ever attempted it?
I've a heavily sportered K98 that I'm entertaining re-bluing the bbl and possibly casing hardening the bolt and some of the hardware. It's got enough good stuff to entertain tackling it; scrubbed, engraved floorplate, Double set triggers, spoon handle on the bolt, a thinner profiled bbl, target peep...neat old gun.
Needs some 'Snazzing up' though.
Thanks
Tokguy
 
Case hardening or colour case hardening?

Many have attempted it, some managed to destroy it too. It isn't something to be taken lightly.
 
The setup needed to do this correctly is extensive and not for the average hobbyist. Kilns, carbon containers etc are all involved and more than a little bit of knowledge. Snider mentioned Oskar Kob. He is reasonable priced with a fantastic turn around time and a wealth of knowledge. I would use him if you really want that look on a rifle.
 
I have been toying with idea and quickly realized this is a lot more involved that simple heat colouring which can be done at much lower temperatures (540F). I did a few die sets that turned out nice. Will get there one day, just have to wait until I retire so I have time to invest.
Of course if you are already a metal guy or blacksmith, go for it. No doubt you'll be doing a few others too��

Cheers
 
I just talked to Oskar today. I sent him some parts to have colour hardened and he just got them today. Judging by pictures I've seen of his work, he does a nice job. Hoping my pieces turn out just as nice.

His expected turnaround time is quick and I thought his price was really reasonable. The only drag is waiting for the shipping back and forth.
 
Thanks for the input all. I may try to get a hold of Oscar after the rear sight parts arrive... one step at a time. 1st we'll see how it groups. Then we'll ponder additional cosmetic work.
 
Case hardening is a process to enhance strength or resist abrasion in mild steel but driving carbon into the first couple thousands of an inch of the metal. A mauser is made of steel more akin to tool steel, and attempting to case harden it would totally f*** up the integrity and the metallurgical properties of that near perfect steel.

Jewel the bolt, and save the color case hardening for an old POS break action shot-gun receiver:
s-l225.jpg
 
I have done color case hardening. It is somehow unpredictable science because it turns out a little different every time. A lot goes into it. Preparation is very important, all parts have to be perfectly cleaned, followed by annealing...Thin parts especially could be tricky. Nothing looks better though, than color case hardened receiver on shotguns or rifles.
 
Based on the last 2 posts, I think it might be dressed up elseways.
Messing up a fine rifle with cosmetics seems like a foolish thing to do.
Thanks for the input. It's much appreciated.
I'd seen a Mauser with the back end case hardened and it looked fine. But tweaking metallurgical properties... no thanks.
 
I enjoy casehardening but stick to older low carbon iron pieces. I have a heat treating oven, bone and wood charcoal, 35 gal tank of water with air bubbler pipe, steel vessel and have been playing with it for about 20 years and still learning. Oskar does Mauser actions and they look awesome but I haven't tried a Mauser yet. My photobucket pictures disappeared from this site but ASSRA site hosts pictures and there are some discussions with pics you can find there. Here is the most recent discussion https://www.assra.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1514472103/0. Hopefully this link works.
 
tokguy said:
Based on the last 2 posts, I think it might be dressed up elseways.
Messing up a fine rifle with cosmetics seems like a foolish thing to do.
Thanks for the input. It's much appreciated.
I'd seen a Mauser with the back end case hardened and it looked fine. But tweaking metallurgical properties... no thanks.
Click to expand...

I think the main reason for not case hardening a K98 or any other modern rifle made with heat treatable steel is that the water quench required would leave the bolt and action brittle hard; basically a grenade. You could return the metal to its original characteristics with a lot of knowledge and carrying it out in a heat treating oven combined with an inert gas atmosphere (all following the original quench) assuming you knew the temperature the action was originally drawn to following its original hardening. It is not something I would even consider doing

cheers mooncoon
 
Personally, I prefer strength, function, and reliability over pretty colors. Color case hardening is the sizzle; the steak is what counts, and what will keep you from putting an eye out (or worse).
 
Keep in mind that the colours fade over time and use, just like blueing. Personally I think rust bluing is a better and more traditional way to treat a Mauser.
 
IIRC, I once read that Colt would lose about one out of three SAA frames due to the hardening. This was way back when. The various cutouts in the frame would lead to uneven stresses. My figure may be inaccurate, but you get the idea.
 
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