Case head separation (how to remove case)
- Thread starter Underthegun
- Start date
Should I use a 25 caliber brush or use a larger one?
If that fails, you can buy a stuck case puller like the ones they sell at Brownells.
h ttp://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/stuck-case-removers/stuck-case-puller-prod972.aspx
One method I read was to carefully epoxy a steel rod onto the inner case, let it cure then pull out the case. My fear would get getting messy epoxy everything and making the stiuation worse. lol
h ttp://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/stuck-case-removers/stuck-case-puller-prod972.aspx
One method I read was to carefully epoxy a steel rod onto the inner case, let it cure then pull out the case. My fear would get getting messy epoxy everything and making the stiuation worse. lol
Get a broken case remover for the calibre you use. Chamber it, open and pull out the bolt, thus removing the broken case and carry on doing your thing.
Hunters on long, guided trips in the mountains with big strings of horses, always carried a broken shell extractor with them.
Hunters on long, guided trips in the mountains with big strings of horses, always carried a broken shell extractor with them.
If you can get a tap into the chamber, it'll do it. Be very careful of the diameter though. Just enough to grab the case and not the chamber wall. Sometimes a suitably sized screwdriver works too. Most smithies make their own tools or adapt something else.
If you opt for the cleaning brush, use the .25 cal. Anything bigger will get stuck and you'll need to figure out how to get it out. Smaller won't do anything.
If you opt for the cleaning brush, use the .25 cal. Anything bigger will get stuck and you'll need to figure out how to get it out. Smaller won't do anything.
Actually, what has always worked for me is: Take a 25 or 6.5mm brush, insert it [with the rod attached]
from the chamber end just till the brush is fully in the neck of the broken case. [not further]
Then pull backward on the rod/brush.
The bristles want to straighten, but are slanted like barbs, and they pull the case right out.
Regards, Eagleye.
from the chamber end just till the brush is fully in the neck of the broken case. [not further]
Then pull backward on the rod/brush.
The bristles want to straighten, but are slanted like barbs, and they pull the case right out.
Regards, Eagleye.
Found this tool at Brownells. Insert like a round, the extractor locks into the front of the stuck case and you extract it like a regular spent case.
h ttp://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/stuck-case-removers/broken-shell-extractor-prod23311.aspx
h ttp://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/stuck-case-removers/broken-shell-extractor-prod23311.aspx
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"Actually, what has always worked for me is: Take a 25 or 6.5mm brush, insert it [with the rod attached]
from the chamber end just till the brush is fully in the neck of the broken case. [not further]
Then pull backward on the rod/brush.
The bristles want to straighten, but are slanted like barbs, and they pull the case right out."
Like he said. This is what I try first.
here is something else I have done. brush the inside of the stuck case, so it is shiny. Do the same with a 22-250 case. Carefully paint some JB Weld inside the stuck case and then insert the 22-250 case. Then push the bolt onto the 22-250 case until the extractor grabs it. Leave it muzzle down over night.
In the morning gently tap on the case with a cleaning rod while pulling back on the bolt handle. This has always worked for me when working with a caliber for which I don't have a stuck case remover and the bronze brush trick did not work.
from the chamber end just till the brush is fully in the neck of the broken case. [not further]
Then pull backward on the rod/brush.
The bristles want to straighten, but are slanted like barbs, and they pull the case right out."
Like he said. This is what I try first.
here is something else I have done. brush the inside of the stuck case, so it is shiny. Do the same with a 22-250 case. Carefully paint some JB Weld inside the stuck case and then insert the 22-250 case. Then push the bolt onto the 22-250 case until the extractor grabs it. Leave it muzzle down over night.
In the morning gently tap on the case with a cleaning rod while pulling back on the bolt handle. This has always worked for me when working with a caliber for which I don't have a stuck case remover and the bronze brush trick did not work.
I had a .303 British case stuck really bad and I tried pretty much all the methods mentioned already and none of them worked. It was really stuck. I ended up buying a broken case extractor from eBay for $10 and have had to use it a couple times since. If you regularly shoot that calibre it will inevitably happen again. Just get a broken case extractor.
They were just under book maximum. And showing no signs of excessive pressure. They were also on their 5th load by me, and I believe 2 more from the previous owner making a total of about 6 or 7 loads
Yes there is
Buy a RCBS Case Mastering Gauge and you will never have a case head separation ever again. (and throw that bent paper clip away)
Below, a once fired factory loaded Winchester .303 case stretched .009 on the first firing.
Below, checking a .308 case fired in a Ishapore 2A1 for thinning in the web area.
I have been reloading for over 40 years and never had a case head separation.
Below, a once fired factory loaded Winchester .303 case stretched .009 on the first firing.
Below, checking a .308 case fired in a Ishapore 2A1 for thinning in the web area.
I have been reloading for over 40 years and never had a case head separation.
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