case length ??
- Thread starter boombag13
- Start date
Measuring the case length will answer your question; it should be less than 1.76". If it is not over maximum length and does not enter the gauge fully, it is not fully resized. If you want to full-length resize, the sizing die should be screwed in about 1/8 turn past contact with the shell holder/shell plate. You should be able to feel the press "cam over" towards the end of the stroke as you size a case.
That said, you may or may not be FL sizing, depending on the application. If it's for a semiauto rifle, it must be FL sized. For manually-operated rifles, you might neck size only if the cases are being used in only one rifle.
Personally, I just FL resize everything for the following reasons:
-I'm not convinced there is a big difference in accuracy or case life (notwithstanding rifles with lots of headspace, like many Lee Enfields, in which case neck sizing may be reasonable).
-Once-fired .223 brass is relatively cheap (often free), so I don't feel the need to squeeze a couple more firings out of every case.
-I can store sized brass that is ready to go for either bolt gun or AR, instead of segregating brass for one or the other.
-Neck sized cases will often eventually require bumping the shoulder back anyway. It is easier to just do things the same way every time than to track X number of firings, then sizing the case differently.
In short, I think that most of the time, neck sizing just makes the process more fiddly for questionable gain.
That said, you may or may not be FL sizing, depending on the application. If it's for a semiauto rifle, it must be FL sized. For manually-operated rifles, you might neck size only if the cases are being used in only one rifle.
Personally, I just FL resize everything for the following reasons:
-I'm not convinced there is a big difference in accuracy or case life (notwithstanding rifles with lots of headspace, like many Lee Enfields, in which case neck sizing may be reasonable).
-Once-fired .223 brass is relatively cheap (often free), so I don't feel the need to squeeze a couple more firings out of every case.
-I can store sized brass that is ready to go for either bolt gun or AR, instead of segregating brass for one or the other.
-Neck sized cases will often eventually require bumping the shoulder back anyway. It is easier to just do things the same way every time than to track X number of firings, then sizing the case differently.
In short, I think that most of the time, neck sizing just makes the process more fiddly for questionable gain.
Do you have vernier calipers to measure case length?
I trim my .223/5.56 cases to 1.750 which would be the lowest step of the gauge. "BUT" the gauge is measuring from the case shoulder so its better to have a vernier caliper and measure from the base of the case to the case mouth.
What type trimmer do you have?
I trim my .223/5.56 cases to 1.750 which would be the lowest step of the gauge. "BUT" the gauge is measuring from the case shoulder so its better to have a vernier caliper and measure from the base of the case to the case mouth.
What type trimmer do you have?
tj, with this statement you made, "In short, I think that most of the time, neck sizing just makes the process more fiddly for questionable gain," you have expressed my thoughts, exactly.
Neck sizing is one of several things that modern reloaders are making far too much of.
As you say, unless the subject rifle has way too much head space, forget about neck sizing.
Neck sizing is one of several things that modern reloaders are making far too much of.
As you say, unless the subject rifle has way too much head space, forget about neck sizing.
i'm using the lyman e zee trim rifle kit, & i gota get a battery for calipers, hopefully that'll solve it
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