Case lube

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adam_17

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Just wondering if you have to use resizing lube or will any generic lubricant work. I have some silicone lubricant here I was thinking of using.

Adam
 
Within hours of my first reloading experience I quickly learned that a little lube is a good thing. Trying to get that .223 rem case out of the stuck FL resizing die was a PITA

I've switched to ballistol in a pump spray.

For straight wall calibre, I give a squirt into a tub, toss in the cases and give it a swirl. For bottle neck cartridges I lay them out flat on a tray and give a tiny misting, then swirl in a tub. Less is best.
 
Do you normally try to clean all the lube out of the neck after resizing? I have read some lubes will effect powder and some won’t, any experience with this?
 
adam_17 said:
Just wondering if you have to use resizing lube or will any generic lubricant work. I have some silicone lubricant here I was thinking of using.

Adam
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Lanolin is the base of most non synthetic case/neck lubes, mixed with BeesWax and maybe a few other things, depending on which brand you buy

The brand mentioned by Eagleye is right at the top of the list.

I've never tried spray silicone but some commercial manufacturers include it in their ingredients list, there used to be one with suspended Teflon as well.

If you can't find a bottle of case lubricant at your local Gun Shop or online, (CHEAP) go to your local Drug Store and buy a small bottle of Lanolin, mix it with Auto Transmission Fluid, appx 50 part ATF to ONE part Lanolin and make up a few ounces, which should be sufficient for a few thousand cases.

As far as the inside of the neck goes, IMHO, it's far more important to use a metal brush, usually the type used for cleaning a bore, to clean the carbon deposits left behind.

One thing to keep in mind, the sizing ball on the end of the stem, doesn't push the lube on the inside neck walls into the case.

The neck is sized to an inside diameter that is "smaller" than the sizing ball and when it's pulled back through the neck, the lube makes its passage easier, lessening the chance of breaking off the stem from friction. This process allows the sizing ball to "wipe out" the lube on the neck sidewalls.

I usually look at the case mouths to see if any of them have visible lube on them. The odd one might have a bit, but not usually enough to cause any issues with the powder charge

Where you really need to be careful, is when you resize the cases and don't clean off the case lube from the sidewalls of the case and it gets on your hands.

Even this isn't much of a problem, as long as your hands don't come into direct contact with the ignition side of the primers

I know lots of folks that don't clean the lube from the outside of their cases after sizing. I don't agree with this practice as any lube left will inhibit the sidewall from sealing properly and adhering properly to the sidewall, allowing gasses to flow past and putting more stress on the bolt lugs/receiver
 
I have been using good old fashioned STP oil treatment for decades , even for resizing cases works like a charm, cheap like borscht and come off in the wet tumbler.
 
Use to use Lee, but it was a pain in the but so I switched to a aerosol, it supposed to be not affecting powders!
I will by the imperial wax next time and try it, does the wax affect powders?
 
M1-Garand said:
I have been using good old fashioned STP oil treatment for decades , even for resizing cases works like a charm, cheap like borscht and come off in the wet tumbler.
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I used STP as well but couldn't handle the smell. I was going through Chemo and even though I had been using it for at least six months and on thousands of cases. The chemo blend had a definite affect on my sense of smell and sinuses. It did a great job and loosened up any carbon on the neck/shoulder as well.

Now, I'm not fussy about which sizing lube I use, because usually the only cases I full length resize are straight wall cases like the 45-70 or straight wall handgun cases. Then I just use whatever I have on hand. Lube for case necks can be just about anything slippery enough

I likely have at least a half dozen different case lubes on hand presently. I get them out of estate sales for the most part. I haven't actually gone out to purposely purchase the stuff for over ten years.

I find the Bonanza/RCBS/Safari/Motty's/Forster Sport Lube/DoAll Tap Cream/Chicago Slick and a few home made concoctions all work as well as the other on the cases.

Just remember, almost all of the commercial lubes were originally concocted from readily off the shelf available products, put into a fancy container and had the price jacked up 100 times.
 
I use Imperial sizing wax most of the time, there are certain situations i use Hornady Unique case lube. I have tried lanoline with alcohol in a spray and it worked.
 
I use a mix of 99% alcohol & Pure Liquid Lanolin. Ratio is 10 parts alcohol and 1 part Pure Liquid Lanolin. Mix it in an atomizer bottle, shake well before use. Never a stuck case!
YMMV!
 
I have been using the Lee lube in a tube for quite somne time now, as per Ganderite's suggestion .
Put a bunch of cases in a margerine tub, lay out about an inch of lube on your finger and spread it along the lip of the container, then put the top on and invert. Swirl the cases around for about 20 seconds, and done!
Works super.
When expperimentiing or doing just a few cases I use Imperial sizing wax
Cat
 
oldrodder;[URL="tel:18908444" said:
18908444[/URL]]I use a mix of 99% alcohol & Pure Liquid Lanolin. Ratio is 10 parts alcohol and 1 part Pure Liquid Lanolin. Mix it in an atomizer bottle, shake well before use. Never a stuck case!
YMMV!
Click to expand...

This is what I use on my progressive press for rifle cartridges. Works very well. A quick tumble after sizing to remove the lube and they are ready to go. I do use Imperial sizing wax on my single stage press. Never failed me.
 
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