Case prep!

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Eastman

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I keep hearing about guys who weigh/measure their brass. I have been experimenting myself along these lines, and have a couple of questions....
What Gr weight do you include in a batch? I mean, what is acceptable in a given batch of cases.....? I have been trying to keep mine within half a grain for each batch. Should I go wider? I prefer my case lengths to be all the same....within a thou!!! Would appreciate any info on this subject
Eastman.
 
some guys even turn the necks to ensure that each case is as close to the others as possible. They also weigh their bullets.. you should really try this one.... you would be surprised how the weight of a bullet can fluctuate and throw you off. ever wonder why you seem to get an odd "fly" once in a while?
guys are weighing the brass as a way to determine the amount of powder in the case ( heavier case, less internal volume)....
you could spend many many hours prepping your cases.... but where do you draw the line?
if its for a specific purpose.. go ahead, it will do you some good. If you are doing it to say " my brass is more consistant than other shooters".. this will get old after a while and you will not be spending as much time on your cases as you intend to right now.
like I said before.. where do you draw the line? its up to you.
 
I weigh .308 Lapua cases into 1 gr lots, .223 into .5 gr.
With Lapua I find I have 3 lots. Of the 2000 or so cases I have found about 30 cases that don't fit into the 3 lots by about 2 grains too heavy.
Does it make any difference? I don't know, but it is part of my mental game.
This is also asuming that all exterior dim. are the same. .0005" difference in wall thickness, rim thickness or extractor grove will throw weighing cases out the window.
If you really want a true reading, weigh your cases by volume.:bangHead:
Or you want to drive yourself crazy, do what hoochie suggests by weighing bullets.
 
I weigh my cases and sort in to 1gr lots ie. 322gr +/- 0.5 gr. I agree with Maynard, I only do it as part of my mental game. Weighing bullets, measuring powder to 0.1 gr, turning necks.... are all more important than weighing brass.

If you get bored you can also start weighing primers.:eek: :eek: :eek:
 
Only for long range competition do I pay any attention to case weights. Even then 1.0 grain variation is plenty to slot one group into. There are better things to spend your time at than being anal about case weights on Hunting/plinking loads. Another waste of time is weighing powder to the last .1 gr. A good powder measure throws MOST powders accurately enough that you will never know the difference out to 500 meters. JMHO, Eagleye.
 
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case prep

I think I have been a bit too stringent in my case prep. Reading what you guys are saying, makes me realize that I am being a bit over the top! I have been trying to get my case weights almost identical?? At least no more than .2g difference! And exactly the same length!! I get obsessed with powder weight....has to read EXACTLY the same...no more than 1/10th gr out! This is for .223 Model 12 LRPV Savage 1:9 twist. It is a very accurate rifle, but I'm still not getting what I know I can out of it! I am concentrating on the 53 gr Sierra Match(1400) which is an excellent bullet for target shooting, and I am doing ok, but maybe i would do better with something like 69 gr MK's with the 1:9 twist? I am shooting 100 yard targets at the moment. I can make a ragged hole on a group shot on a good day, but I don't hit enough "Tens" on individual targets (One shot at each) Maybe it's the moving position from one target to the next (10 times) that throws me off? And maybe it's the bipod that isn't good enough for this type of competition? If I shoot at one target with this set-up, I can usually knock the center right out!
I think I'll ease up on the case prep a bit anyway!
Eastman
 
Make sure you have trimmed cases to equal length and deburred the inside of flash holes and uniformed the primer pocket depths first - that way when you are sorting cases by weight you haved removed variables of physical dimension. Neck turning first will remove another variable, but I have not done any neck turning (yet).

I'm pretty much just a .20 and .22 cal loader (i.e. small cases) so I sort in 1gr. spans of weight (+/- 0.5gr. from mean). I use Remington cases and have found pretty good consistency, losing only 3-4 cases/100. I just use the culled brass for things like bullet seating dummies etc. so therte's no big loss.
 
There is also the mental side to the equation - peace of mind that you have done everything possible to create the best ammunition. If there is doubt, try taking the opposite ends of your brass, the heaviest and the lightest. Three of each will probably show significant differences. Brass that is consistent in weight can be improved by neck turning, uniforming primer pockets, and removing flash hole burrs.
 
Unless you have a specialy prepared bench rifle or long range match gun OR you are a competitive match shooter most of the above is a waste of time IMHO. Kind of like cleaning primer pockets in handgun rounds. There are so many other variables involved not the least of which is shooters ablity that play a far more important part in getting the bullet to the target than any of the above concerns.

Take Care

Bob
 
I try to be careful with all of my reloading...trim necks, weigh powder charges, clean primer pockets, etc., but I don't go so far as weighing bullets or brass. Fact is, I'm not a competitive shooter or even a regular MOA shooter at the range. Never seen a moose will a kill zone of only 1 or 2 inches. That's a lucky thing for me and for many (I think for most) other hunters!
 
"...a bit too stringent..." Just a little. Having the case lengths the same is a good thing, but they don't have to weigh the same. Even for long range shooting. Bench rest shooting is a different thing. Weighing each charge is good too. Mind you, you may find that 1/10th of a grain is too much. Sometimes that tenth can be the difference between a 1" group and a 1.25" group.
Pitch the bipod and use sand bags. They're more solid. Sit the rifle on the bags just forward of the mag then shoot for groups. Not one shot per target. Once you have a group, sight in.
If you opt for the heavier bullet, you'll have to work up a load again.
 
case prep

I am more than pleased with the response to this topic, and I am taking on board some of what has been said.
I shoot friendly competition against a few very experienced pals. They have been shooting for many years, and are good at what they do. I have only approx 8 months behind me, so am still learning...aren't we all? I am a competent shooter already, and i am just trying to eliminate as many variables as possible that effect accuracy! I can hit the center of the target for the most part, but one or two "flyers" are all it takes to make the difference between winning, and finishing down the field! Most of the time, I know it isn't me that has moved/flinched etc, although that does happen occasionally. So I am taking great care to try and get total consistancy in my handloads! The rifle is more than capable, and I don't let it get hot etc. The occasional "flyer" can be any one of the 10 shots fired, which tells me it is most likely an inconsistancy in some part of the handload.
Although it is friendly competition, we all like to be top dog some times! If I get very good consistancy with my ammo, I know i can hold my own with my mates. My powder charges are spot on now...measured, weighed, and double checked. I am trying to make sure that all aspects of my reloading is exactly the same, as far as is possible. I understand what some have said about it being a waste of time except for top competitive shooting, but I don't see it that way myself. I like to get everything as "right" as possible, in anything I do. My Dad used to say "If a thing is worth doing, It's worth doing right!" Anyway, I don't have anything else to do( retired)
So, thanks for all your oppinions/ views, and please keep them coming in. I'm sure there are more people than just me who learn from such discussions!
Eastman
 
Eastman

You might want to remember some bench shooters load by volume not weight and achieve some pretty good results. Do what ever you feel is necessary to float your boat. That is the beauty of our hobby. What some view as a waste of time others consider a necessity. Just remember there are a lot of ways to skin a cat and no right way.

Take Care

Bob
 
Eastman, if you want some other easy variables to play with I suggest three that have been highly effective in both my .308 tactical and my.22 PPC bench rifles:
1) Use match grade bullets, eg. Sierra Matchkings.
2) Deburr flash holes; this is a quick & simple operation with a dedicated tool.
3) Use match grade primers as opposed to standard.

PS: I throw all my charges on a Redding volumetric measure as opposed to weighing each one.
 
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