i was at the range the other day .when i got home i was looking at my fired brass as i am collecting it to start reloading,anywhays,the base of the cartridge is expanded about 1/4 of a inch from the base only on one side about 1/4-1/2 of the way around the cartridge.i tried to insert one into my rifle it would not go in.is this a headspace problem or just needs to be resized ,i have never kept any brass before so i have never noticed this.the rounds ejected fine.oh yeah they were factory rounds federal i think .thanks
case problems on .303
- Thread starter slug1977
- Start date
Mine has never distorted a case at the base like that, although I do find cracks once in a while and obviously throw those ones away.
I don't think I would risk trying to reload them, and I would say there's something wrong with your chamber for it to do that and would bring it to a smith for a look. If you value your gun and your fingers that is.
I don't think I would risk trying to reload them, and I would say there's something wrong with your chamber for it to do that and would bring it to a smith for a look. If you value your gun and your fingers that is.
- Location
- Vancouver Island BC
You will probably get one or two reloads from that brass when full length resizing. Neck sizing may get you one more reload than full length sizing. The Enfield has a good gas venting system and is safe and you may never notice if you get a case head seperation except for when you extract it and only the base comes out. If you are going to reload 303 then you should buy yourself a broken case extractor and carry it with you if using the reloads out hunting or target practicing.
X2 on the broken shell extractor, i have had a few break off inside and they were a pain to get out until i bought the extractor, i got mine from Numrich for 8 or 9 $ and it was one of the best things i could have done considering how many different 303's i shoot.
It has always been my experience with the 303 that having head space gauges is part of the plan. I found that checking the head and adjusting the bolt heads help case lif0 and accuracy...
The bulges are normal and are due to wear on the bottom of the chamber. They all have it to one degree or another. I have found that it will shrink if you reduce your headspace to the next size.
What are you shooting? A No 4 or No 5 of No1MkIII*???
Buy a hard case extractor, I recommend it STRONGLY for all Lee Enfield shooters……
Peter
The bulges are normal and are due to wear on the bottom of the chamber. They all have it to one degree or another. I have found that it will shrink if you reduce your headspace to the next size.
What are you shooting? A No 4 or No 5 of No1MkIII*???
Buy a hard case extractor, I recommend it STRONGLY for all Lee Enfield shooters……
Peter
Lee Enfields tend to have generous chambers, both in diameter and length of shoulder. Try an unfired round in the chamber, you will probably find there there is detectable looseness. Cartridges from different makers, or even production lots can vary in dimensions as well. Try measuring the diameters of a wide assortment of cartridges, and you will see variations.
When a round is loaded into a Lee, the extractor tends to push it to the left. This is why the firing pin strike is sometimes off-centre. Sometimes way off centre if a min. spec. round is fired in a max. spec. chamber.
When cartridge cases are drawn, casewall thickness may not be absolutely uniform all the way to the base. It may be thicker on one side than on the other. In fact, it frequently is. There are tools that can measure this, precision reloaders cull cases which lack case wall uniformity. When a round is fired, the thinner side will expand more than the thicker. This can result in the expansion ring just in front of the solid base showing more expansion on one side than on the other.
When a round is loaded into a Lee, the extractor tends to push it to the left. This is why the firing pin strike is sometimes off-centre. Sometimes way off centre if a min. spec. round is fired in a max. spec. chamber.
When cartridge cases are drawn, casewall thickness may not be absolutely uniform all the way to the base. It may be thicker on one side than on the other. In fact, it frequently is. There are tools that can measure this, precision reloaders cull cases which lack case wall uniformity. When a round is fired, the thinner side will expand more than the thicker. This can result in the expansion ring just in front of the solid base showing more expansion on one side than on the other.
- Location
- Vancouver Island BC
The extractor is actually out of the way while the round is fired, so it has nothing to do with the off center firing pin strike.
You're right. The extractor bearing against the cut on the breech of the barrel can push the bolthead to the right, if there is any degree of looseness - and that could result in an off-centre strike. Worst cases I've seen were fired in a really loose SMLE; the fired primers almost looked like rimfires, they had been hit so far off-centre.
That happened with my P17. Still relatively accurate for a milsurp, but could only get 3 firings from a brass (intial load + 2 reloads) - even after full length resizing. If you are only feeding it one time steel case milsurp, no worries.
- Location
- Tucson, Arizona
Now that's interesting, other folks have complained abbout winchester brass being to thin, and say to use Remington. Sellier&Bellot also doesnt last long when reloading. (possibly three or less reloads)
I'm pretty fussy about the brass I re-use though. I typically lose 3 or 4 after shooting them because I see cracks developing around the bases, but no big bulges as has been mentioned.
Believe it or not I have also reloaded Igman brass after swaging the crimp around the primer without any expansion problems.
The worst thing my 303s have done is give me a few primer pops, but I think it had to do with my not being able to seat the primers deep enough as I hadn't cleaned out the pocket enough. Everything I've loaded since doing a proper pocket cleaning has worked fine.
Believe it or not I have also reloaded Igman brass after swaging the crimp around the primer without any expansion problems.
The worst thing my 303s have done is give me a few primer pops, but I think it had to do with my not being able to seat the primers deep enough as I hadn't cleaned out the pocket enough. Everything I've loaded since doing a proper pocket cleaning has worked fine.
Winchester brass has changed over the last few years, they use to be flat based inside the case now it's got a recessed around the primer pocket inside the case.
S&B brass seems to be a little hard after the first firing. I have not had much luck with the 303 brass, other calibers are ok.
With 303, it's all about having thick enough brass at the base of the case and tight head spacing. If your blowing 3-4 cases every time you shoot. Get the rifle's head spacing adjusted, you can reduce your problem and increase your accuracy. It also doesn't help that the 303 chamber dimensions are a little too generous and some rifles over expand the case. Try neck sizing your 303.
Pete
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