Case separation in a .303

Colin

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Just started reloading rifle, in my first 20 rds of .303 I have had 2 cases break. The loads were light and firing a 150gr bullet. The case broke about 7mm forward of the rim. Now just to be sure, I understand this is more to do wilth the brass being old, or can it be caused by other factors as well?
 
... It's the result of the basic Rifle design. Case Separation, is unfortunately, common with Lee Enfields. There are some steps that can be taken to reduce the frequency, BUT none will eliminate it entirely. Make sure Headspace is good, if using only one SMLE, only partially resize ( Shoulder and neck ) keep the loads fairly light to moderate; heavy loads seldom achieve the best accuracy anyway. Get a "Broken Case Extractor" you're going to need it ! .... Some Brass seems to last longer than others, guess Trial and Error more than anything else. .... It's a frustrating Caliber to reload, but a fun one to shoot ! ... David K
 
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It could be old brass or it might be a headspace problem. You can get a gunsmith to check headspace if you don't have the gauges to do it yourself. Have you shot other ammo in the same rifle, and if so, was it ok?
 
Check the headspace anyway. Getting any of the other headspace indicators? Hard extraction, difficulty opening the bolt, primers backing out(that's a high pressure indicator too. Not likely high pressure in this case), etc. How old is the brass? What brand? How often has it been reloaded?
 
I recall the head spacing problems too. Weren't the old military 303's supplied with screw on extractor sections of different lengths to help with this problem? I've been looking in my books to track this down without success. For the life of me I can't remember where I heard about it.
 
... The BOLT HEAD is the replaceable portion of the Bolt that adjusts/regulates the Head-space. Three different sizes available. Also compounding the problem is the actual design of the lock up, and the Chamber is built to allow easy chambering of rounds that could well be dirty etc.etc. ( IE LOOSE Chamber dimensions ) The rear lockup of the bolt itself allows "flexing" for want of a better term, add to the current mix a 60 or 70+ year old gun, and really no surprises ! .... David K
 
"...Weren't the old military 303's supplied with screw on extractor sections..." No. Like David K says, the bolt heads came in different lengths. Four sizes for a No. 4 Rifle though. No. 4 bolt heads and number stamped 0 to 3. No. 1 bolt heads are not. Proper headspace guages are required for either.
 
If you neck size the problem is a great deal less. I suggest a Lee collet die.
This is a very common problem with Lee Enfields because of large tolerances, frequent headspace problems and a stretchy action.
 
Visit 303british.com, for a detailed description of the topic.

If your cases started life as CIL, Imperial, or one of the other variants of that company, they were loaded fairly hot from the factory, and brass from some rifles was not reloadable after the first firing.
If you have a reloading manual, you should find a good description of incipient case head separation. This is what you are seeing.
As the guys have said, when you see the signs, check it with a bent paper clip, of piece of wire, on the inside of the case. If you feel the groove, the case is toast.
Most of these rifles will benefit greatly from neck sizing, or partial full length sizing.
Once you learn how to do that properly, your cases will last much longer.
 
I reload for my .303br's, but I am still a noob. So, I mostly full length resize. Today, two rounds out of maybe 50 did just that: case separation. I should start neck resizing... or, as John Y mentions above, partial-resize - next time I reload that'll be what I'll do (today's experience convinced me).

Both Lee Enfields had good headspace - in the "better half" (between .069 and .064). These cases were at their 3rd reloads. So, don't worry to much I suppose - but get a broken case extractor - came in handy today for me! ;)

Lou
 
Can partialy full length sizing be done with regular dies,
or is it only done with collet dies?
I have a NO 1 MKIII that doesnt let me re-load too many times.
I am reloading cases that i shot from surplus rounds, so they were kind of hot.
But with a headspace problem i have, i am having trouble getting more than one re-load
out of them.
I get good use from my home made case extractor.
still shoots nice, but cant shoot too much or will run out of brass.
Maybe if i started with new brass and collet dies would help greatly?
 
I have a #4 that will break brand new ammo and the bolt head is tight enough that it is firm closing on the rim. The chamber is big. Use a light load to fire-form your cases and LEE collet them afterward and you're good to go.
 
I have 20 brass I have been testing for my curiosity, it is hornady brass. This brass was original factory load, and then only neck sized running 40+g of 4064 and it is on its 9th reload and still shows no sign of stress, shooting it out of my 43 matching LB. So it is possible to with the right combination get good brass life. Just for interest it also shoots 1 1/2 5shot groups at a 100y
 
I either have a sloppy chamber or a head space issue.
I am thinking bad chamber.
I will look into getting Lee collet dies, as i want to keep using it at the Milsurps.
With the right load, i can get some really nice groups at 100 yards as well.
 
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