Cases with crimped primers

jmichelin84

jmichelin84

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I am looking for a way to remove the crimp easy, I have a Lyman tool kit, 8 in one set, none seems to bevel it like others I have, and the Lee kit I have just doesn't have the right tool, any advice?
 
I think the guy I got my first lot from reamed the pockets, they have a slight bevel, or crown, tje pockets are angled slightly from the case base to the rest of the pocket, if I can figure out how to attach ill post a pic, and blur the head stamps lol
 
Oh ok, perfect, I thought it was a de chamfering tool, the Lyman one is too much of an angle, it works beautiful, ill have to invest in a swaging tool, I have all Lee but the Lyman scale, tumbler and the kit
 
Lyman makes primer pocket reamers that remove the crimp and leave a beveled edge inside the pocket. They also open up undersized pockets to min. SAAMI spec so you don't run into seating issues if you have any undersized pockets. They're about $13 for small and $27 for large IIRC but not great for really big batches of brass.
 
your kit if it is the one shown in the link has the primer pocket reamers large and small. that is what you use to take crimp from the case. I think that trying it by hand is going to be a pain. I have the lyman case prep set up and even powered it is a bit of a chore
 
The kit has a small and large reamer and a inside burr remover, and a couple cleaners, ill have to get a ini decapper and try the kit but I think ill look for a Dillon or the Lyman ones
 
I use a countersink bit in a drill. It does not take much to remove the crimp that way.
 
If you have a hand drill, battery operated is best but a corded unit will work fine. Get yourself a 60 degree countersink bit and chuck it up. Then, just chamfer the lips until enough material is removed to allow the new primer to enter easily.

This is the quickest method I have found and I have done thousands of crimped primer pockets on surplus brass.

I have tried the primer pocket swage tool that fits through the shell head holder in a press but the end results were never fully satisfactory. The set I still have somewhere would also round off the corners to make it easy to align a primer with the pocket. Quite often the rim lips on the case would end up deformed.

Chucking them up in a case prep center just takes to long.

tmhaile, you are right on the money. I should have read a bit further before replying. At least I'm backing you up.
 
Below is a photo of what I use for removing the primer crimp from .223/5.56 cases. The Hornady Case Prep Center has three tools, in the rear is a VLD deburring tool that I use to remove the majority of the crimp. I then switch to the top tool a RCBS crimp reamer for their case prep station. The RCBS reamer removes the rest of the crimp, I then use the Lyman crimp reamer as a GO NO-GO gauge to see if the primer pocket reamed enough.

The problem with the Lyman type reamers is if the case is tilted you will score the primer pocket side walls and remove brass.


reamertips001_zps433f8557.jpg


I prefer the RCBS reamer below because it is tapered and will not touch the side walls of the primer pocket. It will bevel the primer pocket and the face of the tool is the stop.

reamertips002_zps4ce4694b.jpg


That being said the Hornady reamer below is sharper than the Lyman reamer

Hornady Primer Pocket Reamer Tool Small
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/501588/hornady-primer-pocket-reamer-tool-small

The problem with hand reamers even powered by a drill is the hand that holds the case gets sore when doing large batches of cases. I like the RCBS reamer but it requires more hand pressure than the Lyman or Hornady reamers.

The best unit is the Dillon super swage but is the most costly and since you have the Lyman crimp removers start with them. I would recommend thin work gloves to ease the strain on your fingers.

I got lazy and now buy 500 pre-processed military Lake City cases at a time that are cleaned, polished and with the crimp removed.

At the link below are more opinions, markm runs a AR15 training school and Molon has more money and doesn't get sore hands and fingers. ;)

.223 Brass and Removing the Primer Crimp
http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?185899-223-Brass-and-Removing-the-Primer-Crimp
 
I did the deburing tool the lyman crimp remover the counter sink,
powered by a cordless drill ------and used a vld tool and when that did not work 100% or a the exacto knife

the vld tool was the best i think

then i ordered 1000 pcs of brass that had a crimp, then got fed up (Hand cramps and still primers had the odd hang up ) so got the Dillon primer pocket swage

for the amount of time I saved on that first 1000 ----------> I would not go back
 
The dillon super swager is the best thing imo. Perfect job.

Other than that I used the super swage for the 650 press(upstroke), seems to work but doesnt do a bevel like the dillon, and after 1000 you will be quite fed up of pushing hard on that handle.
The real best thing is the dillon 1050 press that does it while you load, on the downstroke.

Or get processed brass and save the trouble.

Its a once in a lifetime of the brass thing anyway. For the price difference, unless you have a 1050, buying processed brass makes sense...
 
+1 Dillon Super Swage 600.

It doesn't remove, it pushes it into the right location. That creates a slightly more durable result
than cutting. A side benefit is that if the swage just falls into the pocket, that pocket is too loose
and the piece of brass should be recycled. So it also acts as a defacto gage, something you don't get with a cutter.
 
Kryogen said:
The super swage is by far the best stand alone option
But to process more than 1k cases it gets boring fast....
Click to expand...

Ayup.

I did a couple thousand crimped .223 cases with a carbide ball burr. Chucked the burr in my metal lathe, turned on a radio show, and let my mind wander while the hands worked.

If I were doing repeat batches, I would probably look hard at the Super Swage.

Once the rhythm is found, the work goes by.

Cheers
Trev
 
jmichelin84 said:
I am looking for a way to remove the crimp easy, I have a Lyman tool kit, 8 in one set, none seems to bevel it like others I have, and the Lee kit I have just doesn't have the right tool, any advice?
Click to expand...

This is the tool I use. I just sit down with a box of cases in front of my TV and gradually work my way through them. Can't do big batches but so long as you make sure the tool spins freely in the pocket it works fine. Some cases are easier than others but it is all part of the game. I can only manage about 30-40 in a session before the hand gives out.
 
Same here, countersink bit in a drill or drill press. A few touches to the primer pocket and you're good to go. it will take some experimentation to find out how much to remove but once you figure it out its pretty fast. The dillon swaging tool is $175 bucks but works well. Lee has a swaging die and plate set that also works but is not as fast as either the countersink or dillon swage it.
 
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