Cast bullet reloading tip

H4831

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Just a little tip here for those who use a single press, meaning not something like a Dillon, for reloading cast bullets.
When loading cast bullets we have to expand, or bell, the case mouth a bit in order to keep from shaving lead off the bullet as it is seated. We want to make this belling of the case as little as we can, to preserve case life.
A gas checked bullet requires less of an expanded mouth than does a flat base, because the copper cap is a bit rounded on the base. The flat base bullet usually has a sharp shoulder, which tends to grab the lead, unless there is sufficient belling of the case.
However, a simple operation is to place the base of the bullet into a chamfering and neck smoothing tool, as used on the case after trimming. I have the Lee and a 45-70 bullet just nicely slides into it, butt first. A couple of turns will relieve the sharp corner on the base of the bullet.
It will now smoothly load into the case with no more belling than is required for a gas check bullet.
 
What about bottle neck cases? I can't find anything to bell a 308 etc mouth for seating flat based lead. The chamfer tool is a good idea, what about a nose por mold that is designed to give a beveld base? Would give better consistency not to mention time saving. 45/70 would be a natural for nose pour.
 
From what I have heard the bevel based bullets are made stricktly for ease of loading and cause accuracy to suffer. I believe it makes them much more suseptable to gas cutting.

Nose pour molds tend to be high end quality products though so it is possible that they could make one that preforms well. 45-70 dies generally have the belling option anyway.

I chamfer all my shells and bell so little that its very hard to feel. Haven't had any lead cutting in years.
 
What about bottle neck cases? I can't find anything to bell a 308 etc mouth for seating flat based lead. The chamfer tool is a good idea, what about a nose por mold that is designed to give a beveld base? Would give better consistency not to mention time saving. 45/70 would be a natural for nose pour.

I loaded a lot of cast bullets in a 30-06 and did all the belling by hand, over something improvised.
One thing I did was to take a cartridge loaded with a jacketed bullet, push the bullet into the case and rotate the base of one of them around a bit, to make a bell. If you have access to a home workshop you can probably figure out something better than a bullet.
Here is a picture of an old Winchester loading tool, this one for 30-30. That little tit showing on the end of the tool was used for this purpose and it works great. Just force the empty case over the tit to give the amount of belling you want. All the way down is too much. I have used this tool for loading 30-30 cartridges and it works fine.
WR.jpg
 
Lee makes a "universal expander die" and it is used to bell any and all case mouths, it is esp useful for cals. that only come with 2 die sets. That works good but even better is using quality "inline" bullet seating die, and you don't have to bell the case at all!!!
 
I finally broke down and bought the Lee universal expanding die. I was shaving lead off the side of my bullets, plus the lube, when I reloaded 30/30, 303, .45/70. The only concern with this setup you really have to ensure all brass is the same lenght.
 
From what I have heard the bevel based bullets are made stricktly for ease of loading and cause accuracy to suffer. I believe it makes them much more suseptable to gas cutting.

Nose pour molds tend to be high end quality products though so it is possible that they could make one that preforms well. 45-70 dies generally have the belling option anyway.

I chamfer all my shells and bell so little that its very hard to feel. Haven't had any lead cutting in years.

I forgot about gas cutting, I suppose that bevel base design is not around for a reason.
 
Just a little tip here for those who use a single press, meaning not something like a Dillon, for reloading cast bullets.
When loading cast bullets we have to expand, or bell, the case mouth a bit in order to keep from shaving lead off the bullet as it is seated. We want to make this belling of the case as little as we can, to preserve case life.
A gas checked bullet requires less of an expanded mouth than does a flat base, because the copper cap is a bit rounded on the base. The flat base bullet usually has a sharp shoulder, which tends to grab the lead, unless there is sufficient belling of the case.
However, a simple operation is to place the base of the bullet into a chamfering and neck smoothing tool, as used on the case after trimming. I have the Lee and a 45-70 bullet just nicely slides into it, butt first. A couple of turns will relieve the sharp corner on the base of the bullet.
It will now smoothly load into the case with no more belling than is required for a gas check bullet.

Where were you years ago? :D
Your trick applies not only to cast bullets but to soft-point jacketed bullets also.
I used to use some 357 soft points with a concave base. That is the base looked like it's been pressed against a ball. Once I peeled the side of a case while seating the bullet. Chamfering and belling was a must with those.
 
Yup, that design doesn't help except for some ease of seating, but the Lee die is a staple for all cast bullet shooters, just won't do as large as .50......45 cal. yes.
 
Commonman; I use an RCBS Competition Seating die for all my .30 cal. cast reloading and you just seat the bullet, it keeps the bullet so well in line with the mouth of the case that you don't have to bell or anything. The die also helps with concentricity, it is $60 U.S. from Midsouth Shooters supply, but would prolly pay for itself with the brass you will save by not having to bell at all. I use the one die for my .300 Whisper,.30Br., 30/30, .308, and .30/06....Ben
I don't believe it would work with the .303 though, and of course can be used with J-word bullets.
 
I load many thousands of rounds of 308 on a Dillon 650. To bell the case mouths, I installed a 303 Brit FL die and use the decapper button (backed out all the way) to kiss the case mouth and bell it. I bet a 8mm mauser button would do the same thing.
 
Commonman; I use an RCBS Competition Seating die for all my .30 cal. cast reloading and you just seat the bullet, it keeps the bullet so well in line with the mouth of the case that you don't have to bell or anything. The die also helps with concentricity, it is $60 U.S. from Midsouth Shooters supply, but would prolly pay for itself with the brass you will save by not having to bell at all. I use the one die for my .300 Whisper,.30Br., 30/30, .308, and .30/06....Ben
I don't believe it would work with the .303 though, and of course can be used with J-word bullets.

Are the Hornady seating dies inline? Like with the floating seater.
 
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