Casting bullets

MauserMike

MauserMike

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Can somebody give me some direction on where to get started with casting bullets? I guess you need some sort of furnace, casting moulds etc.

I work in a hospital nuclear medicine department so I have access to a ridiculous amount of disposed lead vial shields. (all safely disposed) I don't know the exact composition of this lead but do people generally add any other metals e.g. tin/antimony to harden the lead?
 
What you wanna cast for, BP, or smokeless?
If smokeless, yes add plumbers solder 90% or so tin. Can even toss in some ww.
Reading;
Lyman web page
Lee web page
Gonna need moulds, lee come with handles, alluminum blocks are good , easy to maintain . Lyman are steel, require a bit more care, but are excellent, handles sold seperate.
10 lb pot is choice, electric
protective gear , gloves, eye protection, no exposed skin , in case of splatters. Water is bad.
Cast outdoors if poss. good air flow a must. Dispose of the crap that comes to the surface when you flux, its highly toxic.
Have fun :)
 
I want to cast bullets for my lever actions, e.g. 30-30 WCF. What is ww?

If the parts are painted, will the burned paint also float to the top or should all the paint be removed? (almost all of this lead is painted)

By the way, if somebody from my local area (Crumlin range member preferred) wants some lead, I am a newbie in need of some instruction to get into reloading and casting bullets. Its gotta be local though.
 
nuke shields

Mausermike: I once aquired 600 pounds of these shields(nice plastic carrying pails- the nuclear radioactive symbol should be crossed off, indicating safe to dispose). Mine were between 17 and 25 pounds, shaped like a bomb, with small reservoir, tapered hole to accept lead alloy sealing plug. I worked in a met lab at the time and analysis was exactly the same as wheelweights, ie 3.5% antimony 0.5% tin, balance lead. This is a little short of tin, adding up to 1.5% tin(has to be calculated from the solder you have or can buy) helps with filling molds and prevents loss of antimony. Nearly perfect for pistol and rifle bullets. A LARGE pot and big BTU propane burner needed to melt down to handy ingots. Wear glasses, boots and heavy protective clothing. Be safe and enjoy the silver stream. Forum castboolits has lots of info.
 
Medical shield lead I believe is almost pure is it not? If so and you are shooting it out of the 30-30 yo will definetly need to harden it up or you are going to have leading like a bugger.
Ken.
 
For the 30/30, mix 95-5 solder with your lead, at 20-1, make sure you size bullet to .309 or .310" . Lyman's #311041 173 gr. flat point gas check is the best place to start for a good cast bullet for the 30/30. I size all my .30 cals. to .310" for best performance and no leading.
 
ben hunchak said:
For the 30/30, mix 95-5 solder with your lead, at 20-1, make sure you size bullet to .309 or .310" . Lyman's #311041 173 gr. flat point gas check is the best place to start for a good cast bullet for the 30/30. I size all my .30 cals. to .310" for best performance and no leading.
Click to expand...
Exactly the bullet I use , and size also. Some sweet looking cartridge when its done, and accurate. Run that sucker 12 inches into a long, it curled the wood fibers ,man.:D
 
Mausermike,

That lead, wether it's pure or wheelweight composition, is money in the bank. Bring home as much as you can. What you can't use is easily sold or traded.
 
I suggest you don't sell any excess. With the recent move to take lead out of just about everything, lead is bound to become harder to get. Hoard it, hide it, and don't let your wife know how much you really have. (Unless she's a shooter)
 
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