Casting Questions

stocker,
I agree, Ed's Red is not really a copper remover but I found that it still worked a lot better than Hoppes. I haven't tried Wipe Out or a nylon brush as you suggested but I will next time I place an order for components. Now that you mention it, I can see a little copper coloration in the bore at the very end of the muzzle.

You mention sight adjustment, that is another possibility I suppose. Only thing is, when I shoot jacketed bullets they hit right on at 100 yards where the cast bullets do not. So I assumed that it cannot be my scope out of adjustment, but I could be wrong. There is nothing wrong with the commercial bullets, I just did not find the right combo such as powder, primer or seating depth. I do prefer to shoot cast at 100 yards if possible. I would not want to reset my scope every time I switch from cast to jacketed. So far, I still did not get any key holing or leading.

John Y Cannuck,
That's good to know. I didn't think WW could be used by themselves for rifle without adding tin to fill the mold better. That's something I'll have to try. My casting equipment should be here sometime next week & I'm a bit anxious to get started. I plan on trying air cooled WW & water cooled WW to see what my rifle prefers. All of the cast bullets I used so far had gas checks & the ones I will be casting myself will be gas checks as well.
 
ww w.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm
Everybody worries about max pressure velocity when using cast. There is also a minimum pressure require in proprtion to the hardness to get the lube pumping....Give those pages a read,and sign on to cast boolits. The boys there know their bees wax
 
Glen: You will be very fortunate to find many cast bullet loads that hit to the same point of aim as full house jacketed loads at other than close range. Factors that include muzzle jump from recoil, barrel time (time it takes bullet to leave the barrel after ignition), varying bullet weight, bullet trajectory, etc., all affect point of impact. Keep a note book and record the number of clicks of elevation and horizontal adjustment needed between load adjustments and you can usually return a quality scope quite close to where it was originally sighted. This of course requires confirmation on the range. It is not uncommon to have to adjust any where from 6 to 10 inches of elevation between full house and reduced loads and usually some horizontal adjustment as well. Again, if you have duplex crosshairs try using the top of the fat section in the bottom half of your scope as if it were a post and see where that moves your point of impact (assuming you need vertical increase). By looking at a standard 100 yard bullseye through the scope you can get an impression of how much difference this will make by seeing how the bull fits in the area between center of your cross hairs and the top of the fat section. That is the system I use with a couple of rifles that I do sometimes shoot both copper jacketed in and the occasional cast bullet for small game I might encounter. I adjust my cast bullet load to where I can count on the fat post being a dependable aiming point.
 
stocker,
Those are very good suggestions. I do have duplex cross hairs on my scope. I already tried what you suggested about using the lower half of my scope to gain elevation. It does work quite well. One thing I may be doing wrong is trying to get a load to work for 100 yds when I maybe should be starting at about 50 then work up from there. Wouldn't hurt to try I suppose. Maybe I should start all over again with a target at 50 yds. Since most of my loads were hitting about 16" low at 100 yds they should be a lot closer at 50 yds. I figure that if I can get an average group at 50 yds to start with, it shouldn't be too hard to gradually work up to 100 with good results. Anyway, looks like I have a lot of trial & error to perform once it warms up a bit. Too cold right now to try some more loads.
 
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