castle nut threads

But..... They are interchangeable IF you are putting a GI/M1A one on a rinco barrel
It will get tighter 1/2 way on but it is acceptable to use.
The chinese ones go onto usgi thread but too loosely, I don't recommend that.
 
Thanks guys I thought they were different ...a buddy out west is in need of one so I sent him a link to treeline as I only have an extra Chinese one .
 
Chalkriver how do you find the Springfield or USGI flash hiders fit onto the barrel slots on the chinese barrel? How much play? I put a NM F/H on and theres alot of rotational play whereas the Nork hider has none. I put the NM back in the bag thought it might shift around during recoil any thought's? It would ring nice though.
 
RememberTheSomme said:
Chalkriver how do you find the Springfield or USGI flash hiders fit onto the barrel slots on the chinese barrel? How much play? I put a NM F/H on and theres alot of rotational play whereas the Nork hider has none. I put the NM back in the bag thought it might shift around during recoil any thought's? It would ring nice though.
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I've put them on 2 norincos. 1 was an original m14 flashider from nurmric way back when it was easy to get stuff shipped over the border and one I did last year that I got from Armtac. Both fit snug and I used the usgi castle nut on both.
Trevor
 
Rdrash said:
I've put them on 2 norincos. 1 was an original m14 flashider from nurmric way back when it was easy to get stuff shipped over the border and one I did last year that I got from Armtac. Both fit snug and I used the usgi castle nut on both.
Trevor
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Thanks Trev, so this new Yankee flash hider I had installed for years, must have been cut undersized on the three splines . Hmmmmm.........so I guess I'll have to throw it back on the EE for 100 dollars, muhahaha,...JK.
 
Dumb question maybe but why not use the GI flash hider and the Chinese nut? Two separate parts and get a tight fit.
 
RSK thanks for the help, but I do use the Norinco Castle nut, this is not the problem. When you slip your F/H over the slotted part of your barrel, the three splines I'm thinking should fit snug in the three slots, there shouldn't be rotational looseness before you start pulling it up tight with the castle nut. Or at least my Norinco original has no rotational play once in the slots. The other american hider worked fine after tightening, or at least it seemed to, but the idea of the ability of the front sight to shirt left or right a fraction of a millimeter was annoying. RTS
 
Well, how do you feel about green loctite? We use it to take up slop in key ways on gearboxes. A good whack will still get it off if you need to.
 
Rotational play in gas system and flash hider is common "and should be expected" when building or fitting new parts or when tuning up store bought rack grade rifles. The common practice for m14 builders is to peen the edges of the TOP splineway inward.
The part, be it a gas cyclinder or flash hider is then seated onto the barrel via a hard wood black and a hammer.
Easy peasy.
Don't use loctite, use a chisel punch and a hammer.
 
Thanks RSK and Thomas for your ideas and help. Seeing as it is common, I'll remove the old Nork hider and proceed to tighten the spline way and re install the NM hider. Thanks RTS.
 
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