CCW in theory: Big and slow vs light and fast?

More effective: Slow and fat, vs quick and light?

  • Slow and fat!

    Votes: 77 57.9%
  • Quick and slow!

    Votes: 56 42.1%

  • Total voters
    133
You have odd reading comprehension skills. Just out of curiosity do you own any pistol?Have you done any defensive pistol training? If you answered no to either I imagine that'd be why you think a 125grn bullet @ 1700 FPS would be best for CCW.

Saputin mention that the 110 gr is not enough, so I said 125-158 is.

I know there are better choices for concealed carry such as semi auto's in 9, 40, and 45.

Although that 125 grain round in a 340PD would be great.

In all reality, you'd want a .32 or .380 Kel Tec or because those are some guns you can take anywhere at all.

A .32 Kel Tec can just go right into your pocket, they are so small at 6.6oz. Lighter than some cell phones I may add.

I guess this mean light and slow for ultimate comfort and concealability.

I keep noticing that on tv shows like first 48 , the victims are always killed with .25 acp, 32acp, .380acp and last but not least .38 special.

Whatever you can pull fast is best.

Like Guns and ammo always says, better a .22 in the pocket than a .45 in your safe.
 
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I choose...both.

Always a good idea to have a buddy that's also armed. :)

Yep! Someitimes I carry around the house with my 1911, sometimes my M&P or my 229. With our mag limit the differance between a 8rd mag and a ten is not much. Now I have a 220 that's on my hip as I type. Always carry 2 mags with you as you will need one for the gun (which is of course unloaded) and one backup. carrying around the house teaches you how to move with a gun without going "clunk" against a wall, door or counter and lets you practice everyday things like going to the bathroom with a gun (and not dropping it or a mag into the recently used but not flushed toilet) :eek:
 
If magical Disney land came to Canada without the current pistol prohibitions, I'd carry a Kel-Tec P3AT in .380. I hate having to wear a holster, IWB or otherwise. I was surprised how many people I know (who don't know each other), carry the P3AT. You have to have it for it to be useful, I don't like carrying a cell phone, let alone a 45 Govt, the P3AT fits in just about any pocket without dragging the pants off you.

Of what I own, if the laws changed tomorrow, my P7, until I could find something lighter.

I'd have a look at the Colt Defender though too.

Slow vs Fast, etc, don't really care. What ever I can shoot faster and more accurately than my threat can will win the day.
 
Well, Beartooth Bullets sells some WFN style bullets that are a ripoff of Veral Smiths WFN designs. Not sure if you could get them up here.

If you know what you're doing, you can design the mould you want and have Mountain Moulds cut your mould for you. He does great work:
http://www.mountainmolds.com/

Or you'll get equally as good a mould from Veral Smith, the guy who really fine tuned and developed the WFN concept. He's just a fussy guy to deal with because he insists on you slugging your barrel so he gets the dimensions exactly right. But he does make a hell of a mould. Here's his .45 slug for you:
8.jpg


His website: http://www.lbtmoulds.com/moulds.shtml

I'd go the Mountain Moulds route, but I've been designing my bullet moulds for a while now and think I usually have it figured out. Alternately, just get Veral to make you a WFN design at around 220 gr. with a gas check.

That should be just the ticket.

Cast them out of wheelweights, put them in the oven at 450 degrees using a good thermometer or Tempril pencil (too hot and your bullets will slump, then you have to start all over again), then quench them. Depending on your alloy, you'll get bullets anywhere from about 28 to 32 Bhn that will penetrate good enough to make a Liberal cry they should be banned. Just make sure you size them immediately after you quench them before all the structural changes take place inside the bullet.

Or... you can just cast with Linotype or Monotype. That will give you a lighter bullet which is almost as hard - which might be what you prefer anyways, although I think 220 to 225 grains should be about right in that 45-08 of yours. It's what I would be thinking of. A 200 grain WFN design from anybody is getting awfully short in shank length to width in a .45.

I was afraid of that...I've been tempted a number of times to get into casting over the years...But always resisted, since I am already spread a little thin in my interests and other things that consume my time.

Maybe I will ask Bullet Barn if they will do them for me, if I buy a mold.:)

I thought Veral Smith had passed away? Guess not! :)
 
My 9mm FN Hipower, its what I can shoot and hit with best under stress. Cheaper too train with, and 9mm can be found almost anywhere.

Being able too hit what your shooting at (vitals) is more important then carrying uncle jims silver lined .50 calibre death bullets.
 
I was afraid of that...I've been tempted a number of times to get into casting over the years...But always resisted, since I am already spread a little thin in my interests and other things that consume my time.

Maybe I will ask Bullet Barn if they will do them for me, if I buy a mold.

That would be a good deal on their part.

Buy the mould and I MIGHT consider doing them for you if you supply the necessaries and don't get too carried away with how many you want. So you'd need the mould, I should already have some handles that fit, and then a sizing die and top punch for my Saeco lubri-sizer.

I generally find doing heat treating annoying and try to do it once I have a thousand or so bullets cast to minimize the annoyance, but I can fit some .45 bullets in there as well...

Once you get set up, casting is not that big a deal and you can crank a hell of a lot of bullets out in a hurry. If you're looking for "shooters" and have a source of wheelweight or similar alloy, you just get a mould that throws a bullet at the size you want your finished bullet and then tumble lube. Eliminates the need for a lubrisizer altogether - although Lee has some nifty sizer solutions for that as well.

I thought Veral Smith had passed away? Guess not! :)
Veral got jailed after buying into one of those "It's illegal for the government to tax you" groups. I think he hung his own ass out to dry in part, but I also think they went pretty heavy on him for some reason or other. Anyway, he did his five years or whatever and now is back in business selling his most excellent moulds, hardness testers, etc. I imagine being prohibited from possessing firearms as a felon really has to hurt as well. He really did come out on the short end.
 
:weird:

:DChoice 2?????.......What kind of bullet moves quick & slow at the same time???

The poster no doubt made a typo.

Bad thing about these polls is that you can't edit them.

If you make a mistake & press the submit button you're stuck with it.

Life Memberships: NRA, GOA, CSSA, NFA, OFAH
CCW Permits: Utah, Pennsylvania, New Hampshire, Maine
 
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That would be a good deal on their part.

Buy the mould and I MIGHT consider doing them for you if you supply the necessaries and don't get too carried away with how many you want. So you'd need the mould, I should already have some handles that fit, and then a sizing die and top punch for my Saeco lubri-sizer.

I generally find doing heat treating annoying and try to do it once I have a thousand or so bullets cast to minimize the annoyance, but I can fit some .45 bullets in there as well...

Once you get set up, casting is not that big a deal and you can crank a hell of a lot of bullets out in a hurry. If you're looking for "shooters" and have a source of wheelweight or similar alloy, you just get a mould that throws a bullet at the size you want your finished bullet and then tumble lube. Eliminates the need for a lubrisizer altogether - although Lee has some nifty sizer solutions for that as well.


Veral got jailed after buying into one of those "It's illegal for the government to tax you" groups. I think he hung his own ass out to dry in part, but I also think they went pretty heavy on him for some reason or other. Anyway, he did his five years or whatever and now is back in business selling his most excellent moulds, hardness testers, etc. I imagine being prohibited from possessing firearms as a felon really has to hurt as well. He really did come out on the short end.

Thanks for the offer RIck, but I wouldn't want to impose on you. I should probably just look into doing it myself. As much as I don't want to get into casting, it's probably something that I *should* learn to do. I will start by ordering Verals book. I've heard great things about it.:)
 
With daily carry, there's only one possible choice that everyone should carry.

That is, the caliber should be the one that someone has the most confidence in being able to shoot quickly whilst being able to have said gun at your side 24/7 without being a nuisance.

After all, a .22LR pocket pistol is 1000% more effective in a gun fight then getting caught in the same gunfight and wishing you had a gun, any gun.
 
Thanks for the offer RIck, but I wouldn't want to impose on you. I should probably just look into doing it myself. As much as I don't want to get into casting, it's probably something that I *should* learn to do. I will start by ordering Verals book. I've heard great things about it.:)
I don't mind doing the casting - I just don't want to be casting for somebody else a dozen times a year or something like that. Once a casting session is going with wheelweight alloy, it is not a big deal to whip out another mould and cast something else at the same time.

Veral's book is okay. Some of it is pretty controversial among the brethern; more to the point I don't think most of it would address your subject at hand.

If you join the Cast Bullet Association, they give you a very, very nice little primer on bullet casting. There is also a cast bullet email list with some of the best in the business in regular attendance, and a cast bullet association forum as well. I think those would be much better sources of info than Veral's book (which I have, BTW).

On the other hand, bullet casting is a pretty good skill to develop, and comes in particularly handy if you have a prized old rifle that doesn't shoot so well with factory ammunition (many Lee Enfields would benefit from using cast bullets as far as accuracy goes).
 
At the risk of a thread hijack, I was looking at a Cabelas Canada catalogue...The bottom drain LEE melter was only $58...the rest of the tools seem cheap, too. Good quality molds seem to be the most $$ and even they aren't ridiculously ex#####ve, either.

I'll check out the cast assoc:)
 
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