mine is a high gloss clear , it appears really durable , I think you can have diff finishes, low gloss ,high gloss , matte, I think the more gloss the better quality + it do not appear shineyThanks. Your pointers are appreciated. we will ship to the US and hopefully avoid duty plus int'l shipping.
yes you amused right.I was thinking air dry. We should be fine to all take our stuff home at the end of the day. Adding an oven just makes it more complex. Although it would cut down cure time before handling.
Thanks for the tips.
On a side note, I have an AERO upper cerakoted in FDE. I just pulled it out last night to look at it and it had scratches through to the metal already. Didn't look too durable. I did buy it second hand but NIB......dunno everyone raves about its durability.
CeraKote Party? - GVRD
- Thread starter ridgearms
- Start date
Phat Eagle
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Fraser Valley, BC
So it was YOU who boosted Liberace's AR!!!!
How much time is going to be needed for blasting??? If people could commit I could go and buy a sandblaster but I would need to change like $60 per person and blast as long as you need but needing at least 3 people to make that happen, 4 would be better. That would also mean that we would do it at my place.
For firearms Cerakote recommend the oven cure one because it's more durable, the air cure one is for optics and suppressor.
So here my experience and recommendations for DIY Cerakote.
Cleaning:
Disassemble the firearm, do a quick clean with rubbing alcohol.
I put all the parts that I want to paint in a BBQ foil container(dollarstore). Buy some acetone (20-25$/gallon) and fill up the container, let the parts soak in for 2hrs (I put mine for at least 3-4hrs). If you want to paint your dust cover, from my experience you'll need to let it soak in the acetone for 5hrs+ that thing is a sponge for oil(remember acetone evaporate so check the level). BE CAREFUL from this point on always wear non-powder latex glove, do not leave any oil on your parts if you want a nice durable finish. I recommend you guys to it at home before you meet to safe a lot time.
Oven:
I don't recommend using your cooking oven, your wife won't be happy to see a bunch of gun parts in there, anyways you don't want nasty chemical where you cook.
So I build my own oven with some 2"x2" and firecode drywall (you can use plywood), the easiest way is to make a sliding door. I cover the inside with tin foil to have heat reflection. I drill a round hole, put a heat gun and I stick a BBQ thermometer on top.
So here my experience and recommendations for DIY Cerakote.
Cleaning:
Disassemble the firearm, do a quick clean with rubbing alcohol.
I put all the parts that I want to paint in a BBQ foil container(dollarstore). Buy some acetone (20-25$/gallon) and fill up the container, let the parts soak in for 2hrs (I put mine for at least 3-4hrs). If you want to paint your dust cover, from my experience you'll need to let it soak in the acetone for 5hrs+ that thing is a sponge for oil(remember acetone evaporate so check the level). BE CAREFUL from this point on always wear non-powder latex glove, do not leave any oil on your parts if you want a nice durable finish. I recommend you guys to it at home before you meet to safe a lot time.
Oven:
I don't recommend using your cooking oven, your wife won't be happy to see a bunch of gun parts in there, anyways you don't want nasty chemical where you cook.
So I build my own oven with some 2"x2" and firecode drywall (you can use plywood), the easiest way is to make a sliding door. I cover the inside with tin foil to have heat reflection. I drill a round hole, put a heat gun and I stick a BBQ thermometer on top.
Gas out:
Put all the parts in the oven preheat at 200F for 20min (read the instructions to have the exact numbers). After look for any trace of oil if there's any put it back in the acetone (check to dust cover!)
Sandblasting:
Sandblasting is the longest part, I bought a sandblasting cabinet (100$). I use my 25 gallons compressor but it was a pain a$$ to do 4 guns. My recommendation if you guys have a truck go rent a 60-100 gallons compressor(60-80$/day) it will safe you a ton of tome. For the media use 100-120 grit of Aluminum Oxide (50$/25kg). DO NOT use sand, the sand will polish the surface instead of making it rough for the Cerakote to stick.
REMEMBER always wear gloves, do not touch any parts with your bare hands (Cerakote hate oil!!)
Put all the parts in the oven preheat at 200F for 20min (read the instructions to have the exact numbers). After look for any trace of oil if there's any put it back in the acetone (check to dust cover!)
Sandblasting:
Sandblasting is the longest part, I bought a sandblasting cabinet (100$). I use my 25 gallons compressor but it was a pain a$$ to do 4 guns. My recommendation if you guys have a truck go rent a 60-100 gallons compressor(60-80$/day) it will safe you a ton of tome. For the media use 100-120 grit of Aluminum Oxide (50$/25kg). DO NOT use sand, the sand will polish the surface instead of making it rough for the Cerakote to stick.
REMEMBER always wear gloves, do not touch any parts with your bare hands (Cerakote hate oil!!)
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That is some great info as that's what I would have bought for this...
Spray Paint:
Very important!! Empty the compressor because after all the sandblasting you'll condensation in the tank (water). I highly recommend a water filter for the compressor if you can rent one or buy it (20-25$). Follow the instructions to mix the paint depending if you want it flat or glossy. I recommend getting more of those paper filter for the paint (0.25$/pic at HD), you only have 5-6 of them in the kit. Get some metal BBQ stick (dollarstore) to mix the paint. Try the spray pattern on a piece of cardboard first, adjust the air and paint flow until you have nice light coverage. Only apply thin coat of Cerakote or you end up with some run down, ask me how I know...
Very important!! Empty the compressor because after all the sandblasting you'll condensation in the tank (water). I highly recommend a water filter for the compressor if you can rent one or buy it (20-25$). Follow the instructions to mix the paint depending if you want it flat or glossy. I recommend getting more of those paper filter for the paint (0.25$/pic at HD), you only have 5-6 of them in the kit. Get some metal BBQ stick (dollarstore) to mix the paint. Try the spray pattern on a piece of cardboard first, adjust the air and paint flow until you have nice light coverage. Only apply thin coat of Cerakote or you end up with some run down, ask me how I know...
Cure:
I use copper wire that I strip out from electrical to use as a hook to paint and bake because they are soft, easy to work with and I had them at home. After you done painting use the same hook and put the parts in your home made oven. I put all my metal and plastic parts in the same time in the oven preheat at 200F (read the instructions to be sure) for 2hrs. Let the parts cool down for 1 hour and you should be good to go home. Clean everything with acetone.
*Tips Cerakote it's a nice, durable with a lot of choice of colors but it's a real project. Take the time to do it right, clean your parts until they are really oil free if you want it to be durable with a nice even finish.
Next time I do it, I'll rent a big belt compressor to save me a lot of time especially if I have to sandblast a rail hand guard .
You'll still save money even if you buy or rent the right tool for the job. As bonus you guys will have the opportunity to hang out with a bunch of gun nuts so go for it!!
English is not my first language, I'm a Frenchy but if you have any question don't hesitate I'll try my best
I use copper wire that I strip out from electrical to use as a hook to paint and bake because they are soft, easy to work with and I had them at home. After you done painting use the same hook and put the parts in your home made oven. I put all my metal and plastic parts in the same time in the oven preheat at 200F (read the instructions to be sure) for 2hrs. Let the parts cool down for 1 hour and you should be good to go home. Clean everything with acetone.
*Tips Cerakote it's a nice, durable with a lot of choice of colors but it's a real project. Take the time to do it right, clean your parts until they are really oil free if you want it to be durable with a nice even finish.
Next time I do it, I'll rent a big belt compressor to save me a lot of time especially if I have to sandblast a rail hand guard .
You'll still save money even if you buy or rent the right tool for the job. As bonus you guys will have the opportunity to hang out with a bunch of gun nuts so go for it!!
English is not my first language, I'm a Frenchy
but if you have any question don't hesitate I'll try my best
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Here's the thread that I done for my first AR build if you guys need some pictures.
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/959972-First-build-Thanks-guys-I-m-now-ADDICTED!!!
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/959972-First-build-Thanks-guys-I-m-now-ADDICTED!!!
thanks for all the info. Much of what I read was that people say not to blast anodized surfaces but NIC says to use #100 or #120 grit aluminum oxide at 8 to 10" away. I guess that doesn't fully remove it. Also, the C series (air cure) is good for up to 1700 degrees F. It needs 24 hours to partially cure and full cure is after 5 days. TBH, I don't think I would even sand blast my parts and I prefer the oven cure.
Holy cow, I admire your enthusiasm. I would just like to advise that Cerakote is a great product but requires strict adherence to technique, materials and process. There is a great video on the NIC Cerakote website that breaks down the whole process step by step. Lots of fellers do nice work in their garage but it is just as easy to end up with a mess. Please don't blame the Cerakote if that happens. A complete AR should run around 220.00 one colour on average. Quadrail forearm averages 80.00 . Upper can be 70 and lower the same from what I have researched. Good luck with your project. You really want the bake on series for a harder finish. You shouldn't handle the air dry for 24 hours to be safe. Good luck boys.
thanks. I am going to do the bake on finish and get the air dry for optics and such. I decided to build the oven first before buying the paint. Im looking for used school lockers and mini toaster ovens. Those two and some insulation make for a perfect rifle curing oven.
- Location
- East ontario
hi guys
just a bit of advice from someone that's done a lot of gun painting over the last 20 years.
CeraKote is the best, 2nd to that is KG gunkote.
Cerakote is the way to go, but you have to use the bake on stuff on guns or your waitsting your time.
prep is everything with these paints, remember to filter and screen the paint after you have mixed it up, there are a lot of different parts to those paints.
you have to blast, let me say that again, you have to blast!!
On Aluminum, the reason for it is most type 2 and 3 have a finish clearcoat finish and or Teflon coated, you need to remove the top surface to be able to have the paint stick.
On steel, blasting is done to give something for the paint to hold onto.
clean, clean again then clean again.
Gun painting is 85% prep 15% painting.
don't paint with the same compressor as you blast with.
we use a smaller compressor with muti filters for that.
If our not willing to do this then just get a can of Kraylon and save yourself the time.
bbb
just a bit of advice from someone that's done a lot of gun painting over the last 20 years.
CeraKote is the best, 2nd to that is KG gunkote.
Cerakote is the way to go, but you have to use the bake on stuff on guns or your waitsting your time.
prep is everything with these paints, remember to filter and screen the paint after you have mixed it up, there are a lot of different parts to those paints.
you have to blast, let me say that again, you have to blast!!
On Aluminum, the reason for it is most type 2 and 3 have a finish clearcoat finish and or Teflon coated, you need to remove the top surface to be able to have the paint stick.
On steel, blasting is done to give something for the paint to hold onto.
clean, clean again then clean again.
Gun painting is 85% prep 15% painting.
don't paint with the same compressor as you blast with.
we use a smaller compressor with muti filters for that.
If our not willing to do this then just get a can of Kraylon and save yourself the time.
bbb
I've got my aluminum chassis and barrel ceracoated , media blasted and then buffed, then cleaned with rubbing alcohol. It was then air dryed, it's very durable. I don't see the need for baking. I used a high gloss ceracote and find it has an enamel like finish.
If you PM your address I can send you an instruction manual. But like I said and BBB, it is not a process that you will get great results with using a mish mash of home made gear. It was probably overkill but my oven retails for around 6,000.00 from the manufacturer in Oregon. Shell Labs have the best ovens in the industry, period. Discounted for Certified applicators. You can see a you tube video of guys doing knives in a tuperware tub. Thats about as far as I would go at home. Oh yes, wear a good respirator mask, not a dust mask. Order a tester size bottle, try it on a small project, and see how that works. I think thats about all I can offer.
When I say I , I do not mean that I did it myself , a friend who does powder coating and such did it for me. He had the professional oven but opted for air dry , it turned out excellent. The tricky part is in the spraying .( you don't want any runs).
- Location
- East ontario
I guess it depends on what the mean by durable.
If don't the right way the finish will look like it just came out of the custom shop of someone like noveskie, KAC, S&W.
Bit if what you are looking for is just a paint job... well then a little rubbing and buffing + a bit o paint may be all you need.
One of the issues we run into when working on firearms is some parts have a very tight fit, that is one of the reason we use cerakote and KG, all the others like arma kote(cdn) duracote are way to thick, so in order to apply them well you have to make then so thin it,s like painting with water.
blasting then painting and baking, gets a hard finish that's not to thick.
No matter how long you "air dry" it will never be as good as a bank of finish.
bbb
