Chamber marks on brass

Kelly Timoffee

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On a VG2 that I purchased a couple moths ago, during shooting and load development the brass wouldn't extract immediately after shooting, took a few seconds to cool enough to extract.

These marks were left on the brass.

These are new factory cartridges I tried to make sure it wasn't something from my reloads.

What do the experienced machine folk figure?



 
during shooting and load development the brass wouldn't extract immediately after shooting, took a few seconds to cool enough to extract.

High pressure most likely... and it is not uncommon for that to happen with factory loads. If it is working fine with your reloads there probably isn't anything wrong with the chamber... but you could have a gunsmith carefully polish it.
 
High pressure most likely... and it is not uncommon for that to happen with factory loads. If it is working fine with your reloads there probably isn't anything wrong with the chamber... but you could have a gunsmith carefully polish it.

Probably about 50% of the time on reloads, varying charge weights , bullets and powders.

This is the rifle I will abandon from my previous ladder test thread , it also has alignment issues of the action or screws as I had to use a +20/-20 inserts(Burris) in the rear ring for windage and the same in the front ring for elevation to get the rifle near center, could go more even, I may have a friday rifle.

Feel like screwing on a new barrel? ;)
 
Sure looks like a slight burr at the front of the belt recess. Much easier to tell with the barrel off. Sounds like the rifle may be a bit of a turkey. I take it one should avoid any VG2 on the EE?
 
Sure looks like a slight burr at the front of the belt recess. Much easier to tell with the barrel off. Sounds like the rifle may be a bit of a turkey. I take it one should avoid any VG2 on the EE?

Maybe, but when and if I sell it I fully disclose any issues , as well as my threads openly show the issues I have had.

Yes , turkey quite possibly.
 
Kt, I recently had a Savage 110 brought in, chambered in 300 Win Mag, just like your VG2.

I would say the rifles are comparable in quality and performance.

It had exactly the same issue as your rifle when it came to leaving shave marks on the case, in front of the web.

I did a cerro cast of the chamber because there was nothing I could see with the Canadian Tire cylinder scope I use for such things. No burrs oranything, other than a slight patch that wasn't as polished at the same location in your pics.

Guntech is likely right, in that some judicious polishing could clean things up.

That's what I tried first. Got everything nicely polished but still had the same issue. Checked it with a set of chamber gauges and found the chamber to be tight.

OK, that meant taking off the barrel, which is relatively simple on the Savage and their neat barrel nut system.

I'm not a fan of magnums because they hurt me when I shoot them. Don't like pain.

This means I don't have a 300wm chamber reamer, so I had to borrow one from a bud 100k away.

Now, I really dislike loaning reamers and am even less enthusiastic about borrowing them, so I took the barrel with me and let my good friend have a look and do the job.

He took a look at the barrel and offered some good advice, "Do a full chamber cast, including the first inch or so of the bore" He wanted to make sure everything was true to the axis of the bore. Not only that but it gave him a chance to sit back and sip on that bog urine called Scotch, which he loves almost as much as his wife and dog as well as have a captive audience. He's a great friend.

We measured the cast in a run out gauge and found it to be within .0005 of true, his measurement. The thing we did find, when comparing the dimensions of the cast billet to the drawings was that the billet actually wasn't tapered for the last half inch in front of the web. Not only that, it was .003 under minimum spec.

We then dropped a new Federal Premium, factory cartridge into the chamber and it was a tight fit for the last half inch. Needed to be pushed in with a thumb with almost imperceptible pressure.

We chucked up the barrel in his lathe and using a floating reamer head holder recut the chamber with his reamer. Didn't go deeper at all, just cleaned up the old chamber to the dimensions of the new reamer.

All the easily done tests were fine. Said my goodbyes to Frank/his dog/wife in that order.

Reinstalled the barrel, took it to the range and extraction issues were all gone.
 
Kt, I recently had a Savage 110 brought in, chambered in 300 Win Mag, just like your VG2.

I would say the rifles are comparable in quality and performance.

It had exactly the same issue as your rifle when it came to leaving shave marks on the case, in front of the web.

I did a cerro cast of the chamber because there was nothing I could see with the Canadian Tire cylinder scope I use for such things. No burrs oranything, other than a slight patch that wasn't as polished at the same location in your pics.

Guntech is likely right, in that some judicious polishing could clean things up.

That's what I tried first. Got everything nicely polished but still had the same issue. Checked it with a set of chamber gauges and found the chamber to be tight.

OK, that meant taking off the barrel, which is relatively simple on the Savage and their neat barrel nut system.

I'm not a fan of magnums because they hurt me when I shoot them. Don't like pain.

This means I don't have a 300wm chamber reamer, so I had to borrow one from a bud 100k away.

Now, I really dislike loaning reamers and am even less enthusiastic about borrowing them, so I took the barrel with me and let my good friend have a look and do the job.

He took a look at the barrel and offered some good advice, "Do a full chamber cast, including the first inch or so of the bore" He wanted to make sure everything was true to the axis of the bore. Not only that but it gave him a chance to sit back and sip on that bog urine called Scotch, which he loves almost as much as his wife and dog as well as have a captive audience. He's a great friend.

We measured the cast in a run out gauge and found it to be within .0005 of true, his measurement. The thing we did find, when comparing the dimensions of the cast billet to the drawings was that the billet actually wasn't tapered for the last half inch in front of the web. Not only that, it was .003 under minimum spec.

We then dropped a new Federal Premium, factory cartridge into the chamber and it was a tight fit for the last half inch. Needed to be pushed in with a thumb with almost imperceptible pressure.

We chucked up the barrel in his lathe and using a floating reamer head holder recut the chamber with his reamer. Didn't go deeper at all, just cleaned up the old chamber to the dimensions of the new reamer.

All the easily done tests were fine. Said my goodbyes to Frank/his dog/wife in that order.

Reinstalled the barrel, took it to the range and extraction issues were all gone.

Would hardly be worth it for me to get someone to do those special touches, guess a guy has to cut his losses at one point or another.
 
Would hardly be worth it for me to get someone to do those special touches, guess a guy has to cut his losses at one point or another.

That's my thought.

I went through the lengths described because the young fellow shooting it can't afford a different rifle and he only had a week to get things right before heading out for the hunt of a lifetime with his Father for Elk on the Muskwa River. He picked up the rifle through an auction. What we repaired on that rifle wasn't easily visible and took a lot of time, more shop time than the rifle was worth. He and his father have been personal friends of mine, between them for close to 45 years. What goes round, comes round.
 
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