Changing Mainspring and Firing Pin Spring on a Kimber 1911

S

soditide

CGN Regular
Rating - 99.4%
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Location
Terrebonne, Québec
I would like to put a mainspring (16lb) on my 1911. What kind of firing pin spring (lb) do i need for reliable ignition? I don't want to change anything else or doing a polishing job. I just want to make an auto drop in job.
 
It's a Kimber. Sell it and buy something better.

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If you buy a Wolf variable 16 lbs spring - it come with a firing pin spring.BUT ..you do not have to change the firing pin spring. It’s not reducing the trigger pull in any way. Hammer spring will do that up to a point.
 
Janeau said:
If you buy a Wolf variable 16 lbs spring - it come with a firing pin spring.BUT ..you do not have to change the firing pin spring. It’s not reducing the trigger pull in any way. Hammer spring will do that up to a point.
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Yes. I knows that but my concern is the reliability ignition due to the lower mainspring weight.

Btw. I don't understand why so much people hate Kimber. For me that's the best 1911 i ever owned. It has any play. Incredibly tight fit. Ø rattles at all. I have only criticism. It's the ridiculous plastic msh. I swapped it for an Ed Brown arched msh.
 
Mine never had a plastic main spring housing, it was stainless steel like the rest of the gun.
It worked 100%, 100% of the time.
 
soditide said:
Yes. I knows that but my concern is the reliability ignition due to the lower mainspring weight.
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Like I said, I'm running 15# mainspring which is as low as you can go without cutting coils with a extra power firing pin spring. S&B, CCI, and Federal primers all go bang. As stated by Janeau, you don't have to change out the FP spring and that spring has nothing to do with trigger pull. Try out the lower mainspring weight, if you are getting light strikes, go to the next heavier weight spring. Wolff sells spring kits with several springs to tune for reliability and 'feel'.
 
My Kimber runs flawlessly. When I first got it years ago, it had a small problem with ejection. I spent a couple of hours examining it to determine the problem which I subsequently fix. I has worked properly, with absolutely no problems since that day. If ever there was a dire need, it would be my first choice.
I have had other 1911 style firearms that had problems and they have never beat me yet. It all boils down to analyze, think, repair and test. I'm running "factory" springs in the 1911s ...... works like they should. If it ain't broke ...... don't keep fixing it until it is.
 
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