Cheaper to assemble vs buy ?

blupul

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About halfway through my build and crunched some numbers. I could have bought a noveske for the same money. In the end just shipping will be close to 300 bucks and I had to buy some tools and an upper assembly block. Wish I would have just bought . One time hit instead of my weekly tab
 
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The "cheapness" of a build depends a LOT on what components you buy, how complicated you make the end-product, and on the tools you already own. I'd also point out you could have saved some cash buying some things used ;)
 
Think of how much more you are learning by assembling it yourself. And you will have the expertise to change components down the line, if desired. The added cost, is the cost of education, and you get to keep the tools.
 
Also, some people cannot afford to buy the Nov outright..... might cost you a little more to do a custom build.... but you can spread it out over a longer time and not have to use the credit card :)
 
I've always thought of building something myself not necessarily as a way to save money, but for the experience, and to get things how I want them.
 
You must educate yourself on sourcing parts.. I bet you just paid too much for the stuff you bought...

Last AR I assembled came in at $1150.
All new name brand parts...
 
You must educate yourself on sourcing parts.. I bet you just paid too much for the stuff you bought...

Last AR I assembled came in at $1150.
All new name brand parts...

Wow , when was that 1998 ? Kidding aside 159 for lower leaves under a grand for upper ,barrel, bolt , buttstock , Lpk , with shipping and tax I think that would be quite a challange. Some parts I went as cheap as I could find others like barrel bolt and quadrail I bought nice parts . I'm looking for a a2 fsb right now any help on finding one ?
 
I built an entire one just for the fun of it. By the time I factored in tools and stuff it did cost alot more, but the enjoyment for putting it together was higher than just unpacking another cardboard box.

Its suppose to be a hobby right?
 
Wow , when was that 1998 ? Kidding aside 159 for lower leaves under a grand for upper ,barrel, bolt , buttstock , Lpk , with shipping and tax I think that would be quite a challange. Some parts I went as cheap as I could find others like barrel bolt and quadrail I bought nice parts . I'm looking for a a2 fsb right now any help on finding one ?

Wll the quadrail is probably what did you in. Had you used a standard handguard it may have been cheaper.
 
the Only real problem i have is on ee. ppl selling used at new prices. But oh well, I have been choosy very choosy with what i buy. i'm about 900 ish on an upper and stock. trying to get a lower with parts kit under 300.
 
No pics yet just the lower is complete and it's just your average lower with average 6pos butt stock . The I bought the hand guard and barrel before the upper so untill that comes it's just parts.
 
It really depends on what parts you use. If you look around, it really is not that expensive.

Stripped lower=$160 (Blueline)
LPK=$70 (Brownells)
6 Position stock with assembly=$89 (Questar)
Total lower cost=$319

Upper receiver (includes port door and forward assist)=$200 (Questar-takes time, but Spike's and DPMS are available)
S&J 11.5"/14.5"/16.5" barrel=$215 (SFRC)
Gas Block (Doublestar railed gas block)=$30 (Brownells)
Handguard retainer=$10 (Brownells)
Gas tube=$20 (Brownells-includes roll pin)
Barrel Nut, Delta Ring and Spring=$30 (Brownells)
Handguards=$40 (Brownells)
Bolt Carrier Group=$200 (LMT S/A or F/A - Questar)
Charging Handle=$20 (Brownells)
Magpul Back Up sights=$98 (Brownells)
Total upper cost=$863

Grand total=$1182

Add $30 for a PMag, and you are good to go.
 
You forgot shipping and tax that 159 dollar lower comes to 196 the 89 dollar buttstock 109 I know because I used those parts . I never intended to build the cheapest Ar but even with cheap parts my lower was 496 bucks . Without a quadrail it can be done cheaper . I also bought a white oak armament 12.5 ss barrel witch added to the build . I'm not here complaining I did learn alot . I just didn't realize the cost of the build.
 
The tax also needs to be paid if you buy a complete rifle - though admittedly, shipping can increase the cost if you order in too many chunks from too many places.
 
it all depends on what TYPE of AR you are building. If you are building a KISS/off-the-shelf/m4 clone then yes, it makes MUCH more sense to go buy that AR-15 complete.

In my case, it is not worth it for me to buy a complete AR, and then swap out 70% of the parts on it. I then have to sell all the take-off parts I wont need (handguard assemblies, chg handle, stock, pistol grip, flash hider, trigger, carry handle), and then have to buy all those replacement parts in order to have what I want.

ARs arent cheap, and the lessons i learned from the first 2 ive built meant that when it came time to build 3 and 4, i built them right the first time and wasnt swapping out parts on a weekly basis.

My ARs 1-4 (1&2 have been sold):

AR15-16-Phase4-2.jpg

AR15-16-Phase5-1.jpg

AR15-105-Phase21.jpg

AR15-181.jpg
 
it all depends on what TYPE of AR you are building. If you are building a KISS/off-the-shelf/m4 clone then yes, it makes MUCH more sense to go buy that AR-15 complete.

In my case, it is not worth it for me to buy a complete AR, and then swap out 70% of the parts on it. I then have to sell all the take-off parts I wont need (handguard assemblies, chg handle, stock, pistol grip, flash hider, trigger, carry handle), and then have to buy all those replacement parts in order to have what I want.

ARs arent cheap, and the lessons i learned from the first 2 ive built meant that when it came time to build 3 and 4, i built them right the first time and wasnt swapping out parts on a weekly basis.

My ARs 1-4 (1&2 have been sold):

AR15-16-Phase4-2.jpg

AR15-16-Phase5-1.jpg

AR15-105-Phase21.jpg

AR15-181.jpg

What are the barrel and hand guard lengths on #2 and #4?
 
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