Checkering

javman

Member
Rating - 100%
11   0   0
Location
Nova Scotia
What is the most common checkering pitch? I am getting into stock refinishing and have had some stocks where the checkering could use some touch up. I see on Brownells and MidwayUSA they come in different pitches. If I was to purchase some checkering tools what size should I look for first?
Thank You
Mark
 
Find a copy of Gun Stock Checkering and Carving by Kennedy.

If you are doing touch-ups, buy single line tools, or measure the checkering and buy what fits (lines per inch, measure an inch, and count 'em)

Cheers
Trev
 
60' or 90' as I recall. I have only ever used 60' though as that in my experience is the most common and in 18 point. So if your going to buy checkering tools for repointing and cleaning up checkering when refinishing. You want single line cutters in 18 pt. 60' they come in course and fine, both are useful. There is a hand piece that holds the cutter heads, order two handles and at least a half doz. cutter heads, as they dull rather quickly especially when cleaning crud and old finish put of checkering. For cleaning up lines at the borders so you don't get over runs you will want an edging tool, which is a separate hand piece (shaped differently) and some edge cutters in the same degree and point.
Over the years I have always bought my supplies from Dembart by mail. Good folks, but if Brownells is your choice by all means. Your also best to get a book that gives you the basic's on checkering. It is a very rewarding hobby, can be tedious, hard on the eyes, and frustrating at times. A good adjustable work light is a must as it is imperative that you see well. The depth of checkering lines will look different in the light from different angles. When done all the lines should be of the same depth. A couple old tooth brushes are also indispensable.
Checkering tools are not expensive in the world scheme of tool purchasing. The handles last forever, you just need to replace the cutter heads. The "point" signifies 'lines per inch" so 18 point is 18 lines or points per inch. The higher the point per inch checkering is commonly found on more expensive guns as it is more difficult and time consuming to do. Kinda like the difference between 80 grit sand paper and 220.

You mentioned your getting into finishing. Well that's a whole other subject which there has been volumes written on. You will find the popular finish it seems here on CGN is Birchwood Caseys True Oil. It is not my choice nor of many others but they will be fellas that will come on here raving about it. Personally I use Tung oil both 100% pure and with dryers. Also "Lin-speed" oil which is a linseed oil derivative, a very good product that I have used for about 40yrs. now.
 
Last edited:
If they are cut in 60, 90 will sharpen them up nice - but be sure that it is not a small job to freshen up checkering. Mrgoat and Trev have pretty much summed it up. A checkering cradle and lots of light and five times as much time as you think that it might take - and you'll be nearly done.

Some of the oldtimers - and me (I wasn't old at the time) - would just use a three corner file with a little bend on the end to sharpen up old checkering. Warm the file up red and give it a little curl and then quench it.

A little brass bristled brush will dig a lot of junk out of the grooves too. Mask it off first to save the finish - and brush gently with the grooves.
 
I want to thank everyone for their responses. I have used a 3 sided file on the first gun that I redid everything on. It was a free Cooey 600 22 that was rusty and beat up. I polished and reblued everything with Birchwood Casey's cold blue kit. It actually turned out pretty good except for the barrel as it was hard to do it all at once. The wood turned out very good and I get a lot of compliments on it. I did not think of ordering from Dembart directly but will check them out as well as HVH.
 
Back
Top Bottom