Choke trouble with Stoeger P-350

D

Dwarf

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OK I need some help. I have a Stoeger P-350 with the usual screw in chokes. With my other shotguns I normally I unscrew my chokes after use and before I put the gun away.

Well here is where I did a stupid thing.... This is my duck hunting gun and it was cheap so I guess I don't treat it how I should..... I left the choke in for a few months over the season and many wet hunting trips later I can not get the choke out.

I tried WD-40 and letting it sit. I tried Oil and letting it sit I even tried disk brake cleaner / solvent and letting it soak for days. It will not come loose. I even bent my choke wrench a bit trying to get it out.

Please if you have any ideas let me know.

Thanks
 
Another member of this forum mentioned about using a piece of solid roughed brass, that will fit somewhat closely inside the choke tube. Take the brass and drill a hole laterally through it so that a piece of steel (round stock) can be used as a wrench. It would eventually look like a T handled spark plug wrench or a choke tube wrench. Once that's done, plug the choke tube from the breech end with something that will not allow anything liquid to pass (plasticene). Mix up some 2 part epoxy, pour some into the choke and sink the brass "wrench" into it. Just don't let the epoxy flow anywhere near the threads. The best stuff that I can think of is Acra-Glas liquid. Allow the epoxy to cure (at least 24 hours) and have at it. You may need to make up a barrel vise of sorts to hold the barrel.
Good luck!
 
Get enough Kroil that you can fill a container deep enough to submerge the barrels beyond the choke. Let stand for a couple or more days. Then retry with your wrench. If that doesn't work time for the more drastic measure or take it to a gunsmith who may be able to do something else. I don't think very much of WD40 as a solvent/penetrator compared to Kroil. A spray application is not likely to do too much to help you. Submerge it for a prolonged period. Once you get it out start using choke tube lubricant or a thin coat of Nev'r Sieze on the threads.
 
take it to a gunsmith. if your gonna spend money on trying to do it yourself, get someone qualified to do it for you. depending on what they have to do it really shouldent cost more than $40 to remove the choke. and you will most likely have a gun that works right after. (and quite possably a working choke)
 
Soak overnight barrel down in the best releasing oil you have. Oil covering choke. Go out next morning shoot 5 hot loads and then try your choke. Repeat if necessary. If a few trys like this don't work go to a gunsmith.
 
Jason at Gunco ( Nepean) 613-224-6266 has reportedly a specialized tool he made that will extract the most stubbornly seized choke on a Stoeger.

Better hurry up if you want it back in time for turkey seson though !!!
 
Thanks for all the good Idea's.... I will get at it this weekend and if not its going to have to be off to the gunsmith.
 
Stoeger chokes are notoriously soft. I always use an anti seize choke lube on my chokes. But my Mod choke now unscrews all the way out. (The thread is only on the top quarter) you can actually see the impression that the barrel threads leave on the choke wall. The P350 comes with 5 chokes, only the MOD caused me problems as it is the only one I shoot steel shot through. I replaced it with an aftermarket MOD choke from another company and have not had a problem since. If you can't get the old choke out on your own take it to a gunsmith it shouldn't be that expensive. Invest in a new aftermarket choke and some anti seize lube and you're laughing. Whatever you do don't send it back to Stoeger. They've been sitting on my Condor Competition since Early November, the stock cracked at the receiver and had to be replaced. To add insult to injury I shoot out of the same club as the guy at stoeger who should be fixing it. Conections don't even get you fast service.


PS my point of impact remained the same with the MOD but went up about a foot with a Jellyhead turkey choke. I liked the wad stripping so tried it, stupidly I didn't test fire before season opener and lost a tom because of it. The wad bowled over the bird but then it jumped up and flew away. I put an old jug against a tree and fired from the same distance, the wad hit the jug and the shot blew a hole a foot above.
 
medic1050 said:
I replaced it with an aftermarket MOD choke from another company and have not had a problem since. If you can't get the old choke out on your own take it to a gunsmith it shouldn't be that expensive. Invest in a new aftermarket choke and some anti seize lube and you're laughing.

OK thanks..... Just wondering what after market choke did you go with??
Click to expand...
 
stuck choke

I have a 2000 with the same problem.It happened to me after duck hunting too.I used one size too small for steel shot and because the steel shot doesn't deform at all when the shot is being constricted by the choke it peens the tube and swells it.I need to take it to work and turn it out on the lathe.
 
I have removed many a stuck choke using a heat gun and constant force with a t-handle wrench. Be careful however not to apply too much heat. Try soaking the end of the barrel in a container of penetrating oil for a few days and then heating it slightly while applying pressure to the wrench.

Do NOT do what one of the guys at the club did and use a propane torch. You should have seen the look on his face when the rib came off.

Good luck.
 
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