Clamping?

[MilitaryCollectorMark]

Going to be modifying a wood stock on My 6.5 Zastava.
Going to be slimming down the stock and adding a schnabel tip.
Have a husqvarna stock borrowed from Potashminer to use as a reference.

Just not quite sure how to clamp the stock to hold it while I rasp out the excess wood.

Would using a vise with padding work?

Any ideas would be appreciated!

 

[Jonnyofalltrades]

Thick tooling or saddle leather is what I use. I glue mine onto thin plywood, then glue rare earth magnets into the back to hold them in the vise.

 

[marshall]

I made a jig when working on stocks, padded quick vice on front, and usually a plate screwed on butt in same holes as the recoil pad, I would some times make one up to fit the stock.
Think car engine stand.
If checkering I would have so it stock would rotate, a wood dowel same as barrel with a clamp and that in second vice , or make a 2x4 stand with up rights to hold both ends.
If just a touch up , I would just use the vice.
Barrel channel? just clamp in padded vice

I use to have a 4 in draw knife that was perfect size for stock work. (for me) .Grandson has it now.

 

[MilitaryCollectorMark]

I made a jig when working on stocks, padded quick vice on front, and usually a plate screwed on butt in same holes as the recoil pad, I would some times make one up to fit the stock.
Think car engine stand.
If checkering I would have so it stock would rotate, a wood dowel same as barrel with a clamp and that in second vice , or make a 2x4 stand with up rights to hold both ends.
If just a touch up , I would just use the vice.
Barrel channel? just clamp in padded vice

I use to have a 4 in draw knife that was perfect size for stock work. (for me) .Grandson has it now.

Good to know! Not going to be checkering it since it's the factory stock, softer wood which won't be as good as a nice walnut stock.

 

[guntech]

I have used leather but mostly 1/2 inch+ felt saddle makers use... a little wider than the vise, bent in a U shape... the bottom protects the stock too.

 

[sean69]

yes - all good answers here.

I made poplar faces for my face vise - that and a thick bit of leather.

 

[kamlooky]

I used thick density foam glued to plywood that slip over the vice jaws.
Don't forget to put something like a towel around the bottom of the vice to prevent bumping on it.

I also bawt an air board sander for slimming down a stock.
Makes a nice even transition.

 

[MilitaryCollectorMark]

I used thick density foam glued to plywood that slip over the vice jaws.
Don't forget to put something like a towel around the bottom of the vice to prevent bumping on it.

I also bawt an air board sander for slimming down a stock.
Makes a nice even transition.

Good advice! That sander sounds like a easy way to make a fairly straight sanding on the stock.

 

[kamlooky]

You bet.
I ordered in a rejected Richard's Micro Fit way back in the day.
A huge chunk of laminate with the front dark end cap and the pistol grip cap as well.
It came frick'in huge.

It resembled the stock on the Schultz & Larsen witch I wished to replicate.
So I came up with the eye-deer to borrow my body shop buddies air board.
With 80 grit it came to shape quickly.
It worked better than I expected.

If I ever find the photos of that projick, I'll post'im up'ear.
I'm sure they are burried in the deep arkhives awf this site.

 

[kamlooky]

Found two.
And some memories.

 

[MilitaryCollectorMark]

Found two.
And some memories.

Very nice!!

 

[kamlooky]

The belly of that stock was the same thickness from the front of the trigger guard to the forend.
The rosewood end cap was about an inch longer.
The bottom of the pistol grip was about three times the thickness.

Can't find the stock as it came out of the packaging.
The computer the photos were on crashed some time ago.

 

[Canuck65]

Going to be modifying a wood stock on My 6.5 Zastava.
Going to be slimming down the stock and adding a schnabel tip.
Have a husqvarna stock borrowed from Potashminer to use as a reference.

Just not quite sure how to clamp the stock to hold it while I rasp out the excess wood.

Would using a vise with padding work?

Any ideas would be appreciated!

I would suggest a guitarmaker’s vise. I think they’re called “universal vise” at lee valley. If you use a machinists or woodworkers vice , it can be hard to put your work at a natural angle. You’ll also want to pad them with shoemakers or saddle leather. If you do a lot of fine woodworking you’ll enjoy having that guitar maker’s vise in your shop.

You can also buy vises made for stock work but they cost way too much imo.

 

[maple_leaf_eh]

One of my favourite Youtube channels is a working gunsmith's "Anvil" and the guy's name is Mark Novak. He has fun showing some diverse piece and then stepping the viewers through the thought processes to understand the function, and fix whatever problem the customer has requested.

He uses a wide bench vise (not a vice) with a large square of coarse horsehair or wool pad about 3/4" thick. He uses a horse from time to time to support the barrel or front of a piece, and is always adjusting the clamping to suit his eyes and tool stroke. Nothing fancy!

 

[sean69]

One thing that may merit some mention here is whatever you are using (felt, leather, softwoods, polypropylene etc) especially if you work with metal in your shop (probably like most of us) especially-especially if you have tools that make chips (lathes, mills, drill presses) especially-especially-especially if you don't have dedicated areas for metal and wood work (probably most of us) ....

Check your padding/soft jaws for metal chips before using them. (every time!)

Same advice for copper & aluminum soft jaws - nothing fun about a small chip of stainless embedded in your aluminum "safe" jaws scratching the living hell out of a barrel...

Even just light filings will stick to the faces of copper and aluminum....