Clean my .22 magnum

Slipery

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Hey guys,

So my habit is to clean my .22 magnum every time after I go out to shoot it. I usually shoot about 100 or so shots an outing.

I have a .22 Hoppes cleaning kit. It came with Hoppes nitro boresolvent. My question is, should I be using the boresolvent everytime I clean it? Or should I use Hoppes #9? And after I use the boresolvent, should I lubricate it?
 
Bore solvent is what loosens the assorted crud that comes from shooting. Not using it is like not using soap when you wash your hands.
 
Hey guys,

So my habit is to clean my .22 magnum every time after I go out to shoot it. I usually shoot about 100 or so shots an outing.

I have a .22 Hoppes cleaning kit. It came with Hoppes nitro boresolvent. My question is, should I be using the boresolvent everytime I clean it? Or should I use Hoppes #9? And after I use the boresolvent, should I lubricate it?

It's good to keep your gun clean as long as you're careful about how you clean it. Make sure you use a bore guide if you're cleaning it that often. It's possible to damage the chamber/rifling especially if you're using a steel cleaning rod.

Hoppes #9 IS nitro bore solvent - it's a great solvent to use to remove powder residue. Do you have another bottle of a different solvent in your kit? #9 is all you really need to clean your 22 Mag.

Another tool you can use to get the bore clean - in addition to using a solvent soaked patch - is a bronze brush.

I normally go through a few solvent patches (using a jag), then a few strokes with the brush, then a few more solvent patches. After you're satisfied with the level of clean, use dry patches until all the solvent is absorbed and send a well oiled patch down then finish it off with a couple dry patches to remove the excess oil. This will leave your bore slightly oiled and ready for storage until the next time you shoot. I'd make sure to give the whole gun a once-over with a clean oily rag to protect the outside (and remove acidic sweat and finger-prints and drips of solvent).

Good luck - happy shooting and cleaning!!!

SD
 
It's good to keep your gun clean as long as you're careful about how you clean it. Make sure you use a bore guide if you're cleaning it that often. It's possible to damage the chamber/rifling especially if you're using a steel cleaning rod.

Hoppes #9 IS nitro bore solvent - it's a great solvent to use to remove powder residue. Do you have another bottle of a different solvent in your kit? #9 is all you really need to clean your 22 Mag.

Another tool you can use to get the bore clean - in addition to using a solvent soaked patch - is a bronze brush.

I normally go through a few solvent patches (using a jag), then a few strokes with the brush, then a few more solvent patches. After you're satisfied with the level of clean, use dry patches until all the solvent is absorbed and send a well oiled patch down then finish it off with a couple dry patches to remove the excess oil. This will leave your bore slightly oiled and ready for storage until the next time you shoot. I'd make sure to give the whole gun a once-over with a clean oily rag to protect the outside (and remove acidic sweat and finger-prints and drips of solvent).

Good luck - happy shooting and cleaning!!!

SD

X2....couldn't have said it any better myself!:)
 
Just a light coat of whatever gun oil you have kicking around. Hoppes has oil in those cheapo cleaning kits. I'm looking at Gunslick ultra lube right now. Apparently synthetic oil even works! My .02
 
I was under the impression that the little bottle I get that is labelled 'gun oil' in every kit, is for a light coating on the barrel? It can be used for both? Sorry, it may be a stupid question, but I am young and haven't gained the every-day wisdom of some of you folks =) I am just asking to make sure
 
Slipery.....
Just buy a can of WD-40 from the hardware store.
LIGHTLY spray it on a rag when your done cleaning your gun and give it a wipe down. ;)
 
I was under the impression that the little bottle I get that is labelled 'gun oil' in every kit, is for a light coating on the barrel? It can be used for both? Sorry, it may be a stupid question, but I am young and haven't gained the every-day wisdom of some of you folks =) I am just asking to make sure

You are correct about the little bottle of 'gun oil', it can be used to apply a light layer of oil on the inside of your barrel to prevent rust/corrosion. Just be sure that it is a LIGHT coating....too much oil applied for extended periods of time can gum up the tube which would need to be cleaned before firing the gun again.

Or just go with the WD-40, it works great on both the outside of the barrel and the inside of the barrel. I use WD-40 for my deer rifle, as bringing in a rifle from -25 to a nice warm gun cabinet causes excessive moisture accumulation resulting in oxidation (rust). A light coat of WD-40 keeps my rifle purty all season long, until I give her the final once over before retiring her for the winter!:cool:
 
I tried WD-40 in the bore. Once. I don't recommend it.

You'd be able to tell the difference (squeek...squeek...squeek) in your next cleaning session.

Ignore internet advice. Stick with a proven quality product.
 
I use Rem Oil - in liquid form, aerosol, and now it's available in a pump (environmentally more friendly I guess).

I have NEVER used WD-40 on any firearm and intend to keep it that way.

Rem Oil works very well inside the bore, action (bolt, slide, etc. or anywhere there are moving parts and friction - be careful around the trigger with oil where you don't want to create a build-up of crud). Also, use it to protect the outside (including all hardware like sling studs and scope rings - just not the scope :p - after all, it's gun oil made by a gun manufacturer and formulated for guns.

...and yes, the oil soaked patch goes down the inside of a clean bore - cleaned with solvent like #9 - followed by one or two dry patches to remove the excess oil.

It sounds like you're doing the right things and it's great to ask these questions!

Good luck and have fun shooting!

SD
 
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Slipery, you recieved some good replies from other members but here are just a few details to add on.

This is my post from the 10/22 tips section on cleaning

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I use a Dewey .20 caliber coated rod for cleaning my .22’s. There are obviously much better rods out there but for me this rod seems to work well. Other choices include pro-shot, kleen bore, ect.

For solvent I use Butches bore shine. I find this solvent works better for me then hoppes number 9, and so far all others I have tried. Some choose to mix this 50/50 with the penetrating and lubricating oil “Kroil”. I have never tried this my self but I have heard many good reports about using this stuff from top-notch benchrest shooters.

Rimfire Cleaning

In the past years, endless debates have arose regarding the proper cleaning of both rimfire and centerfire firearms. There are many opinions on how to clean any given firearm. Some say cleaning with a brass brush is a necessity, when others people argue that cleaning with a patch and a bit of solvent will do the job without any risk of damage.

I strongly believe in the use of a brush every once and a while to get rid of the lead that builds up in the bore, and the chamber area especially overtime. Not necessary every single time but maybe every 500-1000 rounds a pass with a brass brush won’t do much damage. I use a nylon brush quite frequently in many of my benchrest rifles along with y 10/22.

There are many things that need to be paid attention to when cleaning. You need to make sure that you are using the correct size brush and rod, you have to insure the equipment you are using is good, and many other things.

The first step to insure proper cleaning of a firearm, is to insert the bore-guide. Make sure that the bore guide fits into the gun properly so that the cleaning rod slides into the chamber without hitting any edges, and so that no access cleaning solution can enter or damage the trigger mechanism.

In the case of cleaning the 10/22, you can not insert a bore guide without drilling a hole in the back of the receiver or removing the barrel all completely. In this case you must be very careful when inserting the cleaning rod through the muzzle (that is if you didn’t or don’t have a hole drilled in the back of the receiver. A simple muzzle guide that can be purchased for about $3 can help reduce the chances of hitting the crown when cleaning.

Before putting the cleaning rod into the gun, make sure that no grit is on the cleaning rod (if so, wipe off with wet paper towel and dry and with a dry piece). This will insure that no “grit” can damage the barrel of the gun.

What I first do when cleaning is I run a quick wet patch through the gun. This is a patch that has cleaning solvent on it. Just one pass is fine. This will remove the majority of the “gunk” out of the barrel.

After I have run a wet patch through it, I usually use a nylon brush to remove all of the lead and carbon that could possibly built up in the barrel. One nice thing about the nylon brushes is that you can reverse it in the barrel. That is, if you pushed it half way through and then wanted to pull it back you could do this without too much difficulty. With the brass brushes it is very hard to do this without a lot of force. It may even be possible to damage the barrel this way. You can also pull it back and forth through the muzzle without damaging anything if you are careful. Now with the nylon brush attached to the cleaning rod, I run it through the barrel about 5 times (1 time = back and forth). I also dip it in the cleaning solvent before running it through (but just the one time, not each pass)

Now that the gunk is “knocked out” from the rifling and the bore, you have to remove it from the barrel. To do this I simply run 2 dry patches through the barrel to remove the gunk and any leftover cleaning solvent.

After this is all done just wipe off the crown to remove and gunk and the gun powder on the outside.

Now you are all done. I also usually wipe down the gun with a silicone cloth. This may sound like a long procedure but it really doesn’t take that long.

On my bolt action guns (not on my 10/22) I push a brass brush through it 2 or 3 times removing it at the muzzle each time. I do this every 500-1000 rounds.

Each gun has different preferences for when to be cleaned. I clean usually every 50-100 rounds on my benchrest guns when using target ammunition. When using the bulk type gun out of other guns I clean every 200 rounds or so.

_________________________________________________

This was written about a year ago but my procedure has basically stayed the same as i have found this to work well for me.

One comment I would add is DON'T use the 3piece alluminum rods that you buy at Walmart, etc. They are no good and will do more harm than good to your barrel. Get a good 1 piece steel rod.

Hope this helps :)
Jordan
 
Slipery.....
I've never used WD-40 on the inside of my rifle, but I have used it on the outside.
Been using it for years and It's never hurt a thing.
Remember....just because it doesn't say "firearm" on the can, doesn't mean you can't use it. :p (search for "brake fluid" and see what comes up!)
Good luck!!

Check the link below!?

http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/edu46.htm
 
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