Clean the Ruger 10/22
- Thread starter Jimmywang
- Start date
I have been told that over-cleaning a .22 can damage the bore because the barrel is mild steel vs carbon steel found in centre-fire rifles.
I will usually swab out the bore after a few hundred rounds, then put a drop or two of light oil on the moving parts. An oily patch down the barrel protects from rust, just wipe it out before firing.
I will usually swab out the bore after a few hundred rounds, then put a drop or two of light oil on the moving parts. An oily patch down the barrel protects from rust, just wipe it out before firing.
400 might be a little early for a full clean but it depends on the ammo you're using. It's a gas blowback gun so the receiver will be dirty inside for sure, how bad depends on the ammo plus the shooting & storage environment. It's a pretty simple disassembly process though, just go slow, watch for cross pins falling out of the trigger group/ mag release and don't take apart that trigger group! Fishing out the bolt and handle can be a fun little puzzle too but once you get the gun apart you can judge how dirty those 400 made it and use that as a gauge for future cleaning intervals. I personally waited about 4 years and 25,000 rounds to do a full clean on my first 10/22 back in the day... just wipe the bore from inside to out with a snake and run it hard till more oil won't stop the FTE/FTF's and then finally clean it...one way or the other works!
I don't know if you could wreck the bore by over cleaning unless you were using sub standard tools but it would give you an excuse to buy a nice bull barrel or an ultralight CF... a 10/22 is like Theseus Paradox, eventually you'll want to replace every part and it will never be the original gun, just use the hell out of it and replace parts as you go!
I don't know if you could wreck the bore by over cleaning unless you were using sub standard tools but it would give you an excuse to buy a nice bull barrel or an ultralight CF... a 10/22 is like Theseus Paradox, eventually you'll want to replace every part and it will never be the original gun, just use the hell out of it and replace parts as you go!
Up to you. If you're always using the same ammo you could do a deep clean @ 400 and see how much crud you clean out. Then again @ 600, @ 800 etc? You'll have a better sense of when it's needed?
The bore, the bolt face and the extractors always deserve attention when cleaning.
The bore, the bolt face and the extractors always deserve attention when cleaning.
- Location
- Nova Scotia
I use a bore snake and clean what I can with the action open, using tooth brush.
But normally it just gets more oil to loosen the crud.
But normally it just gets more oil to loosen the crud.
- Location
- Nova Scotia
Having a compressor is good for blowing crud
You can use a brass guide shaped like a little funnel to protect the bore and safely go through the muzzle.
Most of the carbon buildup is right after the chamber and that’s where the brushing must be focused, not the end of the barrel anyway.
I wouldn’t worry too much about copper and lead because they general come out pretty easily, and you’ll quickly leave a new seasoning of building after very few shots anyway.
Each time you disassemble the aluminum receiver 10/22 it further weakens the part where the steel bolt enters the action, so I’d minimize thorough disassembly.
I have always found the entire receiver end to clean up easily using lighter fluid for parts flushing and a brush for the breech and bolt face.
I wouldn’t use a stainless brush on anything. The brass brushes are softer than the bore and the nylon ones are even safer. These brushes themselves won’t damage anything but a misguided rod on the muzzle potentially could. These brushes themselves material that can do damage is stainless brushes, leaving caustic chemicals on too long, and leaving too much carbon buildup near the breech as carbon is very hard.
I run a snake through it after each session, brush and lighter fluid the bolt face and breech when it gets gross, and clean from the muzzle with a guide to protect it when accuracy drops off or when I just feel too perfectionist.
10/22 bores are most forgiving because the bores are slightly looser than that of many others.
Your round count matters less than actual accumulated deposits which your judgment and eyes tell you correctly. I would gauge it by what your choice of ammo is doing rather than a specific number.
Most of the carbon buildup is right after the chamber and that’s where the brushing must be focused, not the end of the barrel anyway.
I wouldn’t worry too much about copper and lead because they general come out pretty easily, and you’ll quickly leave a new seasoning of building after very few shots anyway.
Each time you disassemble the aluminum receiver 10/22 it further weakens the part where the steel bolt enters the action, so I’d minimize thorough disassembly.
I have always found the entire receiver end to clean up easily using lighter fluid for parts flushing and a brush for the breech and bolt face.
I wouldn’t use a stainless brush on anything. The brass brushes are softer than the bore and the nylon ones are even safer. These brushes themselves won’t damage anything but a misguided rod on the muzzle potentially could. These brushes themselves material that can do damage is stainless brushes, leaving caustic chemicals on too long, and leaving too much carbon buildup near the breech as carbon is very hard.
I run a snake through it after each session, brush and lighter fluid the bolt face and breech when it gets gross, and clean from the muzzle with a guide to protect it when accuracy drops off or when I just feel too perfectionist.
10/22 bores are most forgiving because the bores are slightly looser than that of many others.
Your round count matters less than actual accumulated deposits which your judgment and eyes tell you correctly. I would gauge it by what your choice of ammo is doing rather than a specific number.
I shoot an SR-22 (A 10/22 action in an aluminum chassis) in competition, and I don't think I've ever bothered cleaning the bore. Still shiny. The bolt gets all clogged up with carbon/wax residue though, and that's what will cause you feeding/extracting problems.
But even still, you're probably fine with taking it up over 1000 rounds before it'll be an issue. If it still cycles fine, I wouldn't mess with it.
But even still, you're probably fine with taking it up over 1000 rounds before it'll be an issue. If it still cycles fine, I wouldn't mess with it.
Jimmywang, why not just disassemble it completely as its new. For me its fun to see how things work. The 10/22 is easy compared to some rifles and if you get lost there are lots of resources on YouTube. I personally wouldn’t take the bolt a part though but the trigger unit could be disassembled for educational purposes if you are bored. BTW Sylvestre sporting goods is a good place for a VQ target hammer and bolt buffer the last time I dealt with them.
Outside of curiosity I normally just clean the chamber with a brass brush and scrub the bolt face with a tooth brush. Rub the tigger unit with a rag if its dirty and apply oil with a clean rag vs squirt it on. I find 10/22s like to run a little dry. Have fun.
Outside of curiosity I normally just clean the chamber with a brass brush and scrub the bolt face with a tooth brush. Rub the tigger unit with a rag if its dirty and apply oil with a clean rag vs squirt it on. I find 10/22s like to run a little dry. Have fun.
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Dissassemble and drill a 1/4” hole in the back of the receiver in alignment with the bore.
Then you can clean the chamber and bore anytime you want from the back like god intended
When needed that is. I think the “shoot it til it malfunctions” method is a good one for a standard 10/22.
Higher end and match chambers are a different story.
Then you can clean the chamber and bore anytime you want from the back like god intended
When needed that is. I think the “shoot it til it malfunctions” method is a good one for a standard 10/22.
Higher end and match chambers are a different story.
You're getting a lot of bad advice here.
Ruger barrels are not mild steel, and you won't in a million years hurt the bore with a brass cleaning brush. They're made from carbon tool steel (like every other barrel) ind it's WAY WAY harder than the copper/brass in your brush and cleaning rod.
You're also not going to hurt the crown cleaning from the muzzle end as long as you take your time and do it right. If you're worried about the crown, get a pull-through brush like an Otis (or similar), but it's not necessary - people have been cleaning semi-auto and lever-action guns from the muzzle end for a long time.
Having said that, it's also VERY easy to drop everything out of the receive and clean it from the breech end.
400-500 rounds is about right for cleaning - As Beeron said - shoot it till it starts to jam or the accuracy goes way off. If yours is still working okay, no rush to clean it.
Good luck and be safe
Ruger barrels are not mild steel, and you won't in a million years hurt the bore with a brass cleaning brush. They're made from carbon tool steel (like every other barrel) ind it's WAY WAY harder than the copper/brass in your brush and cleaning rod.
You're also not going to hurt the crown cleaning from the muzzle end as long as you take your time and do it right. If you're worried about the crown, get a pull-through brush like an Otis (or similar), but it's not necessary - people have been cleaning semi-auto and lever-action guns from the muzzle end for a long time.
Having said that, it's also VERY easy to drop everything out of the receive and clean it from the breech end.
400-500 rounds is about right for cleaning - As Beeron said - shoot it till it starts to jam or the accuracy goes way off. If yours is still working okay, no rush to clean it.
Good luck and be safe
I have a 10/22 take down in stainless. I give the barrel a good scrub with a nylon brush every year. I use an Otis cleaning kit so a quick pull through with an oily rag after each shootin session with that good scrub yearly. I blast the action either Lucas extre duty gun cleaner. It’s plastic safe. Blast the action let it dry clean out and heavy goo deposits then re lube. I normally use atf. It’s the original clp
