cleaning a bolt action rifle?

I leave a shot of WipeOut in the barrel overnight, and then push it out with a coule of patches in the morning. That's it. Go from breech to muzzle and don't pull the patches or brushes back through the barrel after they exit the muzzle.

Honestly, the vast majority of my cleaning suppiles have done nothing but sit on the shelf and collect dust since I started using UBC in my bores, rendering the arguments about the best ways to clean your barrel (as well as the inevitable barrel wear that comes with cleaning) a reliatively moot point...
 
t-star said:
the SMART way to clean is to always clean from chamber to muzzle- you wonder how to do this?- as stated in fm23-8, you open the action. stick the rod down,the muzzle and attach the brush/jag/whatever to the rod when the end is in the chamber, by rotating the rod- then you pull the works back through the barrel -ONE TIME- you don't see-saw it back and forth;that's spreading the dirt back in, even if you do change patches
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Good point, but the jags I have don't work backwards, do you mean the ones with the little slit, not the grooves and point.
 
great info thanks guys. ive been doing it wrong, running the patches through several times or more till they come out black then swapping in a new one. ill start using this method on the 700 from now on. both of my sks's are tanks and i could likely clean them with rocks and old newspaper and it wouldnt affect accuracy :D
 
Moose284 said:
Good point, but the jags I have don't work backwards, do you mean the ones with the little slit, not the grooves and point.
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the jags with the slot are meant for actions with a closed heel( semis, levers pumps) and the grooves and points are for open heel( where you can remove the bolt)- then there are dual purpose, ( h&r types) that have both -
 
uchi said:
great info thanks guys. ive been doing it wrong, running the patches through several times or more till they come out black then swapping in a new one. ill start using this method on the 700 from now on. both of my sks's are tanks and i could likely clean them with rocks and old newspaper and it wouldnt affect accuracy :D
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yea, but that see-saw action is corroding your crown, it doesn't matter what the rifle is-remove your bolt, put in your bore guide, put on your mop or wet patch, run that down the bore, take it off, pull the patch off, then put on your brush,scrub in one direction only-take it off when you get to the end of the barrel, retract the rod, and then re-mount it and do it again- probably 10-20 rotations- then take it off, and start running your patches the same way until they come out white- no blue- then finish it off with a oiled patch down the bore- just once
 
t-star said:
yea, but that see-saw action is corroding your crown, it doesn't matter what the rifle is-remove your bolt, put in your bore guide, put on your mop or wet patch, run that down the bore, take it off, pull the patch off, then put on your brush,scrub in one direction only-take it off when you get to the end of the barrel, retract the rod, and then re-mount it and do it again- probably 10-20 rotations- then take it off, and start running your patches the same way until they come out white- no blue- then finish it off with a oiled patch down the bore- just once
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great information bud thanks alot. ive really been doing it wrong this whole time and thought i was doing it right. and thats why i ask questions. hell the videos i saw on cleaning the sks showed me to do it the way ive been doing it so i assumed it was right. even with the scrubbing i thought the copper brush was loosening crap up in the barrel and then id mop it up. but when you start thinking about it it all makes sense. thanks again.

oh last thing, the bore guide, will any 30 cal bore guide work with the 30-06 r700 or do i need a specific one when looking for it? same with the cleaning rod, as long as its long enough, any 30 cal rod correct?
 
the bore guide is just a tube- you can make one yourself with a length of pipe and a tubing cutter- however, if you look up somebody that sells gun supplies, you will see that it's a one size fits all proposition- and any ONE PIECE rod will do-me, i like and use a dewey coated, but there are others - the dewey was expensive
 
t-star said:
the bore guide is just a tube- you can make one yourself with a length of pipe and a tubing cutter- however, if you look up somebody that sells gun supplies, you will see that it's a one size fits all proposition- and any ONE PIECE rod will do-me, i like and use a dewey coated, but there are others - the dewey was expensive
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alright cool thanks man, im going shooting saturday so ill look for a guide and one piece rod aswell. see what i come home with :D
 
the dewey comes in 2 sizes- get the wider one- it's about 28 caliber- the other one is 22 caliber- you can use either, but i like the thicker rod for the "larger " calibers
 
good to know thanks bud, ill check at the range store saturday see if they have one there. i cleaned the 700 tonight using the methods posted in here, my 3 piece with thw safety on is just long enough to shove a patch through the barrel, not sure what was in the gun but i htought i cleaned it thoroughly last time, but some green crap came out on the patches. dont know if thats some gun oil residue, as i leave the barrel lubricated when im not using the guns. but ive done this in the past and have never seen green crap of any kind. maybe the previous owner had some other lubricant in there or maybe it was something left from factory as this thing has literally 10 rounds through it
 
i picked up a cleaning rod yesterday. ill get a pic of it today but its got a cone shaped collar on it that acts as a bore guide. the guy at the gun store said a bore guide isnt needed with this setup. made by a company called gunslick. its what they have, stainless steel rod and it feels solid too.
 
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