Cleaning and maintenance: anyone tried CLP Break Free?

SO4P

SO4P

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Hey guys!

I recently bought one russian SKS and the dealer told me to clean it with CLP break-free after shooting to prevent rusting if I use corrosive ammunitions. I found out later that the my ammunitions were not corrosive (MFS) so it wasn't an issue. Still, the next rounds I'll buy might be cheap surplus corrosive ammo.

In this case, will the CLP be a sufficient cleaner and time saver, or should I always clean my rifle with hot water? I want to be sure not to mess my first gun and also learn the proper way to clean it.

Thanks
 
1. Windex
2 warm water
3. dry
4. use wath erver solvant to clean
5. use what ever oil to lubricate

Yes CLP will do a verry good job.
 
I use Break Free on rifles that won't be taken out in temps much below zero, and G96 on my firearms that I'll be using late in the hunting season when it's way below zero. G96 resists freezing and keeps working at lower temps than Break Free, but they're both excellent products.
 
I pour a kettle of boiling water over the innards, part of a second kettle through both bits of the gas system and the rest down the barrel, put a third kettle down the barrel, dry, clean everything with Hoppes No. 9, put a few patches of No.9 down the barrel, let soak, clean with a bronze brush, patch until dry, repeat a couple of times, reassemble.


This is probably overkill.
 
Just curious,what do all the eastern block countries do to clean their guns after shooting corrosive ammo? They all sit around a campfire boiling water to clean their guns and sing campfire songs?
 
sarge said:
Just curious,what do all the eastern block countries do to clean their guns after shooting corrosive ammo? They all sit around a campfire boiling water to clean their guns and sing campfire songs?
Click to expand...

The cleaning kits they were issued had 2 section bottles; half filled with solvent, the other half filled with oil. They would clean all the crud off with solvent first then wipe the parts off and oil them.
 
fleury said:
1. Windex
2 warm water
3. dry
4. use wath erver solvant to clean
5. use what ever oil to lubricate

Yes CLP will do a verry good job.
Click to expand...
1). Forget the Windex which in 95% water regardless.
2.) Hot water.
3.) Heat from the hot water = self drying.
4.) Clean with whatever solvent you prefer (I like CLP).
5.) No need to lubricate with oil if CLP is used.
6.) No rust problems with my SKS using above method.
 
I used to use hot water followed by Hoppes and CLP. Now I just clean with Hoppes and oil with CLP. No problems. 13 SKSs, 3 SVT 40s, and a TT33.
 
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CLP is a good cleaner, it has a seven day cleaning cycle, An SKS can go a while without cleaning, I've done it with mine and haven't had any problems.
 
I dump a kettle of hot water on the metal parts which quickly evaporates. I just clean normally with CLP afterwards. The time spent using the water actually saves me time afterwards with CLP because so much crud washes away.
 
When I used to be in the hungarian army we had a bunch of 30 year old AMD-65 an Ak variant, everytime we where done with the livefire excercise that happened once every month and a half. They just got scrubbed and rubbed down inside and out with light gun oil.never heard of using hot water, if I would of done that I still would be scrubing the toilet with my tooth brush never seen any rust.. Our climate can be very humid....
9Guns said:
The cleaning kits they were issued had 2 section bottles; half filled with solvent, the other half filled with oil. They would clean all the crud off with solvent first then wipe the parts off and oil them.
Click to expand...
 
How well you clean it is up to you. If all you did was shoot corossive and then wipe the gun down to leave a thin film of oil you would be fine. Oil will penetrate the deposits of crud and seep down to the metal. And lets not forget, metal covered in oil will not rust. The rest is just cosmetic and entirely up to you as to how shiney you want to make the parts.
 
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