Cleaning brass with a liquid wash?

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1972

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Can anybody recommend a good “wash” that I can put my pistol brass through as a preliminary cleaning? I still intend to tumble it in walnut or corn husk to do a final cleaning and polishing, but I’d like to get rid of as much of the dirt and burned powder residue from inside the cases as I can before I start to work with it.

I know there are a number of formulas out there, but I also know that you have to be VERY careful what you use. I was told most of the acid based cleaners can etch or seriously weaken the brass, so I don’t want anything to do with that.

Does anybody know of a wash that will work well but not damage the brass in any way? Somebody recommended soapy water with a touch of vinegar in it – and then a good rinse in water and baking soda to get rid of the vinegar (which I know is slightly acidic)?

I see there are some commercial formulas available, but again I’m not sure which of them might contain acid or cause a problem.

Anybody know of anything that would work well.. As I said, mostly I just want to get rid of as much dirt and black burned powder residue from the inside of the cases as I can. I know this is not necessary, but I have lots of time (retired) and I figured I might as well clean the brass up as much as I can. I do intend to tumble the brass later in corn husk or walnut shells to finish the cleaning and polish it, but that does not seem to clean the inside of the cases very well.

Thanks in advance for any information and comments. I appreciate your help.
 
The great majority of acids will have no effect on brass. People report using citric acid and vinegar (acetic acid) all the time. I have been using phosphoric acid, but when I run out I will be experimenting with sulphamic acid, as it is cheaper and stores as dry crystals. I believe phosphoric is what the ammo companies use as a final cleaning to give that new in the box shine, as well.

The reduction potential of copper-based alloys is generally above that of hydrogen, so acids cannot drive an oxidation reaction with them unless an alternate reduction reaction with a higher reduction potential is provided.
 
BattleRife said:
The reduction potential of copper-based alloys is generally above that of hydrogen, so acids cannot drive an oxidation reaction with them unless an alternate reduction reaction with a higher reduction potential is provided.
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I'm not sure this makes sense.

* Stick a piece of brass in a 1M citric acid solution and you'll have a greenish liquid in no time. Cupric citrate is a standard 'copper' dietary supplement.

* alloys don't have reduction potentials, their component metals do.

* There's only ionic interaction. When determining if an Arrhenius acid will attack a metal, you only need to consider the potential of the anion and the solubility of the resultant salt (in as much as the formation of any protective coating). The potential of hydrogen or hydronium is irrelevant
 
I tumble my brass in a Thumbler tumbler using a solution of hot water, Sunlight dish detergent and conc. lemon juice. After a couple of hours, I rinse the brass in hot water and let dry.

My brass comes out nice and clean inside and outside and most of the crud in the primer pockets is gone.

rotary_ar12NEW.jpg
 
thebigslide said:
I'm not sure this makes sense.

* Stick a piece of brass in a 1M citric acid solution and you'll have a greenish liquid in no time. Cupric citrate is a standard 'copper' dietary supplement.

* alloys don't have reduction potentials, their component metals do.

* There's only ionic interaction. When determining if an Arrhenius acid will attack a metal, you only need to consider the potential of the anion and the solubility of the resultant salt (in as much as the formation of any protective coating). The potential of hydrogen or hydronium is irrelevant
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I figgured as much :confused:. The potential of that hydronium will get you every time :D.
One question though, do they let you go anywhere near an airport b: ?
 
Hot water, soap, and a bit of vinegar. Let them sit 5 minutes, agitate, wait 5 more, agitate, rinse a couple times with hot water, good to go. Without the hot water rinse, your cases will turn diff colors.

There still might be a thin dirty film on the outside of the cases so a quick tumble or hand polish with a cloth will do the trick.
 
Mauser98 said:
I tumble my brass in a Thumbler tumbler using a solution of hot water, Sunlight dish detergent and conc. lemon juice. After a couple of hours, I rinse the brass in hot water and let dry.

My brass comes out nice and clean inside and outside and most of the crud in the primer pockets is gone.

rotary_ar12NEW.jpg
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oh my god what is that!? lol

did you make it?
 
florin79 said:
oh my god what is that!? lol

did you make it?
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It's a Thumler's Tumbler - you can find 'em cheap at local rock and gem shops.

My ex and I had one for polishing neat rocks we'd find on hikes, which we'd then put into our fish tank... it worked alright for a little while but crapped out pretty quickly.

-M
 
Doc M said:
It's a Thumler's Tumbler - you can find 'em cheap at local rock and gem shops.

My ex and I had one for polishing neat rocks we'd find on hikes, which we'd then put into our fish tank... it worked alright for a little while but crapped out pretty quickly.

-M
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X2 for Thumler. I use wet 1mm ceramic media. Its expensive to start (media) but the stuff lasts forever and cleans my primer pockets too. Relatively quiet and no dust.
 
HKMark23 said:
X2 for Thumler. I use wet 1mm ceramic media. Its expensive to start (media) but the stuff lasts forever and cleans my primer pockets too. Relatively quiet and no dust.
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- Where did you find the 1mm ceramic media? Would it work dry in a case vibratory cleaner (vice a tumbler)?
 
TCBF said:
- Where did you find the 1mm ceramic media? Would it work dry in a case vibratory cleaner (vice a tumbler)?
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Got mine here:

http://www.kingsleynorth.com/skshop/search_results2.php?catID=140

I wish to hell there were a less expensive place to deal. You can only get 5 lbs at a time (per shipment) sent from these guys so shipping costs are a killer. On the plus side, the stuff is virtually indestructible so replenishing frequency is governed strictly by the tiny amounts you inevitably loose with use.

If you're going to invest in this, IMHO its best to own a wet tumbler. I fill my Thumler's unit slightly over 1/3 with ceramic Media, bring it to 1/2 +- with brass, add enough water to cover it all by 1/2 inch, add a capful of Cabelas cleaning compound and tumble 4 hrs,, more if you overfill with brass :redface:. When done, there are no primer pockets to clean (I deprime first) and brass can be dried quickly (2 minutes) by placing it in a covered (large) plastic container containing pet store Corn Cob and shaking by hand for half a minute. Some guys heat their bras to dry it, I don't.
 
Soaking brass in vinegar for 20 mins and then washing it with dish soap worked for me when I needed really clean inside-out brass.
 
anything amonia based is supposed to work great I heard from a fella CLR is the best and really quick then rinse in water.
I always tumble but I am goign to try CLR soon.
 
adriel said:
Hot water, soap, and a bit of vinegar. Let them sit 5 minutes, agitate, wait 5 more, agitate, rinse a couple times with hot water, good to go. Without the hot water rinse, your cases will turn diff colors.

.
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Pretty much how I go about it with a few more ingredients added. It is possible to live without a tumbler.:)
 
Mauser98 said:
I tumble my brass in a Thumbler tumbler using a solution of hot water, Sunlight dish detergent and conc. lemon juice. After a couple of hours, I rinse the brass in hot water and let dry.

My brass comes out nice and clean inside and outside and most of the crud in the primer pockets is gone.

rotary_ar12NEW.jpg
Click to expand...

I just bought one of these rigs, with SS media.

I hear diswasher soap and water to just above the level of the brass.

How full do you fill it?
 
mlehtovaara said:
I just fill a couple socks with brass and throw em in the wash. Seems to work well. I only care about getting ridof carbon not getting shiny cases.
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I concur with this. I saved a couple of pairs of old gray work socks for this. I can put 50 to 75 rifle bullets in a load of work clothes. They come out ready for loading after they dry or you can give a nice polish in the vibrator for just an hour. Your media lasts much longer also.
 
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