cleaning copper from bbl.

For me, I use a conc ammonia solution sold at janitorial places. Use it outside cause the fumes are super strong. Strongest stuff you can buy without a license.

Wipe in, wipe out. Copper dissolves right now The fastest product I have used but never ever leave this stuff in your bore for more then a couple of minutes. You can plug the barrel and fill. You will get a blue fluid in a minute. Nothing is more aggressive.

In areas of humidity, you will need some rust preventative cause that surface is stripped.

Works fantastic on powder as well.... shouldn't but it sure does.

Now the bad news... this is a factory barrel, the copper is sub surface ( in the machine marks), getting it out only means more fouling shots and the same end results as you are now. If accuracy is acceptable, leave it alone.

If you have shot 1000rds, odds are it is the throat erosion that is the cause of your accuracy loss NOT the copper.

I have made it a rule to not look down the bore of a factory pipe if it is shooting well. Scary ugly in there but holes in paper is all that matters.
Jerry
 
Interesting advice Jerry. He's right though, find what a factory tube likes and leave it at that... To add my own, I've recently switched from Hoppes #9 everything to Mpro-7. World of difference. The problem I have with aggressive ammonia cleaners is the potential of rust.
 
Mystic Precision said:
For me, I use a conc ammonia solution sold at janitorial places. Use it outside cause the fumes are super strong. Strongest stuff you can buy without a license.

Wipe in, wipe out. Copper dissolves right now The fastest product I have used but never ever leave this stuff in your bore for more then a couple of minutes. You can plug the barrel and fill. You will get a blue fluid in a minute. Nothing is more aggressive.

In areas of humidity, you will need some rust preventative cause that surface is stripped.

Works fantastic on powder as well.... shouldn't but it sure does.

Now the bad news... this is a factory barrel, the copper is sub surface ( in the machine marks), getting it out only means more fouling shots and the same end results as you are now. If accuracy is acceptable, leave it alone.

If you have shot 1000rds, odds are it is the throat erosion that is the cause of your accuracy loss NOT the copper.

I have made it a rule to not look down the bore of a factory pipe if it is shooting well. Scary ugly in there but holes in paper is all that matters.
Jerry
Click to expand...

this is how it got this bad. accuracy hasn't degraded, just figured it was time. this bbl hasn't been shot since I improved my technique/abilities. spent some time with22-250 bbl, and was able to put five in .460"@100. best group ever for me. now I want to see what this bbl can do. and thx to Jerry for the wrench.
the 22-250 bbl was a factory take off somebody didn't want. licked out with that one. one of these days after kids are order ill invest in match bbl.
 
So will high ammonia cleaners cause rust or is it just that it cleans the steel and leaves it unprotected?

I'm just thinking that after using it, a person could run an oiled patch down the bore and a dry one or two after that and it should be okay. Someday maybe I'll find out...for now I'm not touching anything. I've just developed loads for a couple rifles and I don't want to change anything.
 
If you leave conc ammonia on steel, it will attack the steel and cause corrosion. That is why you wipe it in, wipe it out. Once removed, there is no lingering effect on the steel.

The surface is stripped of any oil. So if you are in an humid environment, rust WILL occur. Treat bore as you normally for your environment.

With all these SS match barrels, I leave my bore dry and not had any issues - I live in a dry climate.

Remember that leaving a bore fouled and untreated may still lead to rust depending on how moist your area is.

The only plus with conc ammonia is that it is CONC AMMONIA and strips out copper faster then any commercial product that is ammonia based. Nothing is as conc so nothing acts as aggressively on copper.

No idea on new gen cleaners as I have no reason to change what I do and the bonus is that all carbon is stripped out as well. I have never seen any carbon build up in my throats and that is dozens of barrels and tens of thousands of rds.

Jerry
 
There's a bunch of savvy in the ^ posts.
How to do it right is very good to know, but how often to clean?. Barrels vary a lot.
Eg: my best shooting 6.5x55 (1/2moa) falls off it's edge at 40 rounds. Just when visible copper starts to show. A cleaning, 2 foulers, and all is good for another 35 rounds.

Have had HB .308's, that seemed to care less if they ever saw solvent.
 
I use Wipe-Out both in foaming and patch out liquid both work great with Accelerator. I love this stuff no smelly fumes cleans up easy and works great at removing copper.

When I get a stubborn fouling I use KG-12 extremely aggressive on copper with out the brutal fumes! I reccomend using
nylon brushes with the KG-12 and Wipe Out for the same reason Guntech stated as well as it can give off false indication of copper fouling
It's a good idea to get a non brass jag as well!
 
You fellows west of here are getting ripped off by home hardware.

I decided to pick up some Old Country all purpose ammonia cleaner at the local store. $2.49 plus tax! 900ml will last me ten lifetimes. :cool:
 
Jmiverson said:
Interesting advice Jerry. He's right though, find what a factory tube likes and leave it at that... To add my own, I've recently switched from Hoppes #9 everything to Mpro-7. World of difference. The problem I have with aggressive ammonia cleaners is the potential of rust.
Click to expand...

Since you have Hoppes #9, just run a damp patch through the bore after cleaning with Ammonia or whatever. There is enough residual oil to act as a barrier (mild but better then nothing). Let sit for a minute, dry patch and should be good.

What has kept bores useable for decades.

Jerry
 
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