Last time I went to the range there was a range officer, who seemed very experienced with firearms, who recommended me to clean CZ with Windex ammonia D after firing corrosive ammo. He also said that CZ likes grease , not oil. Do you guys agree with that? I have purchased a CZ very recently and do not have much experience with it.
Cleaning CZ 858
- Thread starter shogun
- Start date
Windex or hot water, then clean normaly, lightly oil everything. Pay special attention to the bolt assembly/head, bore and gas piston. Make sure you dry well after water based cleaning. Use a compressor or place parts near a halogen work light to speed up drying. Grease will just be a bigger pain in the ass, seeing as you'll want to strip it all off for each cleaning.
Hot (boiling if possible) soapy water works well. Pour some through all the gas effected parts and then give them a good wipe/scrub, and rinse with water again. Hot water will evaporate quickly. Dry the areas well and then clean off the carbon/foulings as normal. Oil works fine in a CZ 858.
Since I never use corrosive ammo in my CZ I can't speak on the windex part but the lubrication I can admit grease works great! Expecialy the "High Heat Wheel Baring Grease". If you decide to use grease, please don't over grease and just apply a small amount of it to the rails on the action plus the reciever. Also if you have a spray can of lithium grease only use it only on the spring assembley. By doing this meathod about every 1000 rounds I clean my rifle and have yet to notice any wear on any parts of my rifle.
I grease my M1 and M14's with white lithium grease, but I would never put it in the CZ.. that would be such a pain in the ass to clean after..
Water down the barrel, hoppes gun cleaner on everything else, then a coat of FP-10 oil on the rails and shiny parts. Finish it off with an oiled rub down on all parts to keep the metal nice.
Water down the barrel, hoppes gun cleaner on everything else, then a coat of FP-10 oil on the rails and shiny parts. Finish it off with an oiled rub down on all parts to keep the metal nice.
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Ok, I shoot surplus. I have no idea if it's corrosive or not. I clean my gun with boiling water once every 4 months or so. The rest of the time, I swab it really well with barrel solvent then gun oil. My barrel is perfect. No corrosion. I bought windex for it but have yet to use it. I do use WD40 to protect the barrel if I'm not going to take the gun home and clean it immediately.
Maybe the ammo I shoot is non-corrosive, but it's one of those 1120 cases of surplus.
Maybe the ammo I shoot is non-corrosive, but it's one of those 1120 cases of surplus.
Merllin I said...
On a side note. Do you have to clean the "Spring Assembley" when shooting corrosive ammo?
The "Spring Assembley" if you apply oil or normal grease to it would be counter productive. When using "lithium grease" only on spring assembley will you not have to worry about wear and cleaning. If you apply oil to the "Spring Assembley" it will pick up dirt and dry up super quick expecialy on hot summer day running a few hundread rounds through it.
On a side note. Do you have to clean the "Spring Assembley" when shooting corrosive ammo?
Thanks for advices. I think you guys are right about grease. If the gun requires cleaning every time, then grease will probably be a bit of an annoyance. It is my understanding that surplus ammo from eastern block is generally corrosive. If those of you who shoot non corrosive can give me pointers where to get it, I would be much obliged. I had some South African ammo that was supposedly non corrosive, but it was not very reliable. I was told by people who looked at it that the primers were set in too deep and striker could not reach them sometimes.
The 1120 rnd cases are corrosive. No doubt about it.
However. you need moisture to have corrosion. If you keep the rifle dry and live in a place with really low humidity (southern Alberta, for example) the corrosive salts may not attract enough moisture to cause rusting.
- Location
- Federal Riding of Wascana
Most semi auto's work better with grease, with my M305 it worked for about 15 rounds using just oil when I first got it, did some more research, got some garage door grease good for -54 to 200+, all my semi's get it, works flawlessly, and does not need to be cleaned off each time either, M14's, M1
and SKS's all seem to function better in my opinion, a CZ shouldn't be any different
and SKS's all seem to function better in my opinion, a CZ shouldn't be any different
Gentlemen,
This is my first rifle that shoots corrosive ammo. I have not had a chance to shoot it yet and I have been been reading about soapy hot water down the barrel prior to cleaning. This just seems wrong to everything I have ever done to look after a firearm and would be considered a way to cause corrosion. I understand that it has been said that you dry it well but are you also depending on the G96 or what ever cleaning/lubricant that you use to remove any leftover water? Does G96 not clean the barrel well enough on its own? What are the corrosive parts of the primer/ammo? sodium, chlorides, CO2, acid or combination of these? Why is the soapy water important?
This is my first rifle that shoots corrosive ammo. I have not had a chance to shoot it yet and I have been been reading about soapy hot water down the barrel prior to cleaning. This just seems wrong to everything I have ever done to look after a firearm and would be considered a way to cause corrosion. I understand that it has been said that you dry it well but are you also depending on the G96 or what ever cleaning/lubricant that you use to remove any leftover water? Does G96 not clean the barrel well enough on its own? What are the corrosive parts of the primer/ammo? sodium, chlorides, CO2, acid or combination of these? Why is the soapy water important?
I did some research on this a couple of years ago. The problem is with the primers. The residual salts attract moisture as was stated - I guess I stayed up too last night because I cannot for the life of me remember what the salt is. The water does not have to be soapy but it shouldn't hurt. Just make sure it's boiling hot so it evaporates quickly.
- Location
- Niagara Region, Ontario. For now
Hoppes number 9 says right on the bottle it takes care of corrosive primer so I just clean my gun thoruoghly with Hoppes #9 everytime I get home from the range. Been a couple months and shoot twice a week, and no issues. Just remeber to clean the gas port exactly the same using a pipe cleaner instead of patches. Enjoy the gun they are awesome.
I don't know exactly what it is, but the primers produce a hydroscopic salt that attracts moisture from the air. You have to get rid of it. Most gun solvents are non-ionic in nature and disolve nitro residue and metals really well but can't disolve ionic crystals like salts. Water just happens to be great ionic solvent. Using hot/boiling water heats up the gun and helps the water to evaporate. Soap helps the process but it's strictly necessary.
Says that on the bottle? I'll have to look. Hot water works best, windex works at the range cause it is mostly water anyway and the amonia will start working on the copper fouling for you. Once home, the kettle gets pluged in and as hot as I can make it down the barrel and gas system.
Scott
Scott
