cleaning do's and don'ts
- Thread starter upnorthshooter
- Start date
I use Hoppes #9 for powder and carbon, Sweets for Copper (this will also remove a good amount of carbon) and an occasional soak with Patch Out. I also have a jar of JB Bore Paste that I use once in awhile.
Some might say this overkill but it works for me:
1 wet Hoppes Patch
2 dry patches
another wet hoppes patch
2 dry patches
1 wet Sweets patch, let sit for a few minutes
2 dry patches
1 wet sweets patch, let sit for a few minutes
2 dry patches
More sweets if necessary or soak with Patch out for an hour or so if fouling is bad
1 wet Hoppes to remove any leftover sweets
2 dry patches
Mop out the chamber and lug recess
(For JB Bore Paste: 1 wet Hoppes patch, 1 patch with JB on it, scrub barrel as per directions on jar, 2 or 3 wet patches of Hoppes to remove the paste and then 2 dry patches, mop out chamber and lug recess)
Cleaning is a personal thing, some clean after every trip to the range. Some clean when the groups open up. You will get a lot of different advice based on peoples personal preference. Only you will know how much/often your gun needs to be cleaned based on it's performance and fouling patterns.
Rule #1 (told to me by a well respected barrel maker) NEVER go into a down and dirty competition with a squeaky clean barrel
Hope this helps some, as I said, you will get different advice on cleaning regimens and products.
Some might say this overkill but it works for me:
1 wet Hoppes Patch
2 dry patches
another wet hoppes patch
2 dry patches
1 wet Sweets patch, let sit for a few minutes
2 dry patches
1 wet sweets patch, let sit for a few minutes
2 dry patches
More sweets if necessary or soak with Patch out for an hour or so if fouling is bad
1 wet Hoppes to remove any leftover sweets
2 dry patches
Mop out the chamber and lug recess
(For JB Bore Paste: 1 wet Hoppes patch, 1 patch with JB on it, scrub barrel as per directions on jar, 2 or 3 wet patches of Hoppes to remove the paste and then 2 dry patches, mop out chamber and lug recess)
Cleaning is a personal thing, some clean after every trip to the range. Some clean when the groups open up. You will get a lot of different advice based on peoples personal preference. Only you will know how much/often your gun needs to be cleaned based on it's performance and fouling patterns.
Rule #1 (told to me by a well respected barrel maker) NEVER go into a down and dirty competition with a squeaky clean barrel
Hope this helps some, as I said, you will get different advice on cleaning regimens and products.
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lineofsight
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Lower Mainland, BC
Used Wipeout for first time this eve, works beautifully - removes copper, carbon, powder with very little effort (figure less brushing less chance to damage bore).
To add a question - how avoid / neutralize copper solvent effect on brass jag?
To add a question - how avoid / neutralize copper solvent effect on brass jag?
Not generally a problem since brass is not effected by the chemical ,if you are worried use soap and water to clean
From what I've been told, as long as you're using a copper cutting agent with a brass brush, you're going to keep eating away at your brush till there's nothing left. One test I haven't ever done is leaving a brush in some copper cutter and see what happens over time. If it's anything like leaving a nail in a can of Coke, you'll never see the end of your blue patches.
For barrels that haven't been lapped from the manufacturer, you could probably do one of two things, lap it, but watch it closely with a bore scope, and then or just use a solution called Gun Juice, which is designed to fill in the micro pores in the steel so that your barrel isn't able to copper up through use. Through continuing use of this Gun Juice, the barrel takes on a high gloss shine which is exactly what you want without removing metal.
For barrels that haven't been lapped from the manufacturer, you could probably do one of two things, lap it, but watch it closely with a bore scope, and then or just use a solution called Gun Juice, which is designed to fill in the micro pores in the steel so that your barrel isn't able to copper up through use. Through continuing use of this Gun Juice, the barrel takes on a high gloss shine which is exactly what you want without removing metal.
Shoot it until the groups open up. Keep track of how many rounds you have fired before the groups open up to set a benchmark on when you will need to clean again.
I shoot moly bullets so cleaning tends to be less frequent (several hundred at least but I have never gone over 900 rounds)
I have tried many products over the years from Sweet's 7.62 to Break free and Rem Clean, JB Paste to Iosso bore paste to Kroil.
My cleaning method now starts with a couple patches of Shooter's Choice followed by dry patching, followed by Gun Slick foaming bore cleaner, let sit for 15 minutes and dry patch.
I shoot moly bullets so cleaning tends to be less frequent (several hundred at least but I have never gone over 900 rounds)
I have tried many products over the years from Sweet's 7.62 to Break free and Rem Clean, JB Paste to Iosso bore paste to Kroil.
My cleaning method now starts with a couple patches of Shooter's Choice followed by dry patching, followed by Gun Slick foaming bore cleaner, let sit for 15 minutes and dry patch.
Listen to Maynard. The gun will tell you when it needs cleaning.
When you do, use a bore guide, use a good quality seamless cleaning rod (i,e. Dewey). Use a good carbon/powder solvent to get rid of the carbon first, then deal with the copper if it is a problem.
I emphatically believe that a cleaning rod should be worked in one direction only (breech to muzzle) and that the jag or brush should never be raked back across the crown; I take off the cleaning tip to retract the cleaning rod after each stroke, Crown damage WILL affect accuracy. Scrubbing the shyte out of a bore wears it out prematurely.
When you do, use a bore guide, use a good quality seamless cleaning rod (i,e. Dewey). Use a good carbon/powder solvent to get rid of the carbon first, then deal with the copper if it is a problem.
I emphatically believe that a cleaning rod should be worked in one direction only (breech to muzzle) and that the jag or brush should never be raked back across the crown; I take off the cleaning tip to retract the cleaning rod after each stroke, Crown damage WILL affect accuracy. Scrubbing the shyte out of a bore wears it out prematurely.
- Location
- calgary alberta
Rifle cleaning is just about as controversial as politics , fluting, or which truck is best.
Everyone has the best way of doing it. I see guys that will do 20 strokes of the brush with the right hand, then 20 strokes with the left, use all sorts of different concoctions, and devices all of which are the best.
I also see alot damage done to rifles by cleaning or over cleaning.
Everytime you run a rod or rope down your bore you are running the risk of doing unintended damage. Bore guides can be of some assistance, but only if they actually fit the action properly.
Cleaning rods should fit the bore closely, they are made caliber specific for a reason and must be wiped clean before being used, the coated rods are great, but the grit that can stick to them if not cleaned off prior to use, can damage the barrel.
Watching a guy pull a Boresnake down his barrel that has been used several times already and has sat on the bench all day collecting God knows what grit and contamination has to be really good for the bore, I can hear the cash register ring when I see that. Boresnakes that break off inside the barrel are also good for business.
Personally I prefer to not clean any more than possible and in the least aggressive manner possible.
I use Wipeout foaming bore cleaner, it removes carbon AND copper, many solutions will only remove 1 not both. By using Wipeout I need to only use 1 or 2 patches and I am done, so less chance of damage by a rod.
I treat all my barrels with Gun Juice, this installs a dry film of superlube into the pores of the steel, creating a barrier between the bullet and the bore.
If the bullet is prevented from coming into contact with the bore then copper fouling is reduced or eliminated, which in turn greatly reduces the amount I have to clean.
I have been using Gun Juice for the last 5 years, I have several rifles with high (1000 plus rnds) round count that have never seen a cleaning, the bore scope shows no signs of copper or carbon build up, and the rifles continue to shoot extremely well.
You are going to get a plethora of advice on this question.
Everyone has the best way of doing it. I see guys that will do 20 strokes of the brush with the right hand, then 20 strokes with the left, use all sorts of different concoctions, and devices all of which are the best.
I also see alot damage done to rifles by cleaning or over cleaning.
Everytime you run a rod or rope down your bore you are running the risk of doing unintended damage. Bore guides can be of some assistance, but only if they actually fit the action properly.
Cleaning rods should fit the bore closely, they are made caliber specific for a reason and must be wiped clean before being used, the coated rods are great, but the grit that can stick to them if not cleaned off prior to use, can damage the barrel.
Watching a guy pull a Boresnake down his barrel that has been used several times already and has sat on the bench all day collecting God knows what grit and contamination has to be really good for the bore, I can hear the cash register ring when I see that. Boresnakes that break off inside the barrel are also good for business.
Personally I prefer to not clean any more than possible and in the least aggressive manner possible.
I use Wipeout foaming bore cleaner, it removes carbon AND copper, many solutions will only remove 1 not both. By using Wipeout I need to only use 1 or 2 patches and I am done, so less chance of damage by a rod.
I treat all my barrels with Gun Juice, this installs a dry film of superlube into the pores of the steel, creating a barrier between the bullet and the bore.
If the bullet is prevented from coming into contact with the bore then copper fouling is reduced or eliminated, which in turn greatly reduces the amount I have to clean.
I have been using Gun Juice for the last 5 years, I have several rifles with high (1000 plus rnds) round count that have never seen a cleaning, the bore scope shows no signs of copper or carbon build up, and the rifles continue to shoot extremely well.
You are going to get a plethora of advice on this question.
Be very careful with sweets!! and SS barrels. 416SS used for barrels has a high sulfur content. The ammonia in sweets reacts with the sulfur and make microscopic pit. I only use sweets on cromemoly barrels. There has been a lot of written on this. I will try to find some links.
to save your brushes and jags from the ravages of cleaning solvents. I use LPS no-flash spray. give them a shot before you put them away.
to save your brushes and jags from the ravages of cleaning solvents. I use LPS no-flash spray. give them a shot before you put them away.
- Location
- Grande Prairie, Alberta
lol. conservative, yes, toyota. everything else is dumb.
personally i clean after every second range trip, depending how much i've fired. the .22 always gets cleaned after each trip, because i shoot around 500 rounds of American Eagle each time out. my 7mm get's cleaned every 2 trips on average, as i generally don't put too many rounds downrange. the shotgun is variabe, depending on how many rounds i go through.
find out what works best for you. i would suggest cleaning your gun every time it "feels" dirty. even if it's actually not, you'll feel better after cleaning it, and feeling better about your equipment allows you to perform better with it.
0) ACTS and PROVE
1) Do a rain dance.
2) Smear some overripened banana on a patch with a pinch of salt and shove it down the bore with a bent coat hangar.
3) Follow this up with a ball of steel wool saturated with dryer lint. Pocket lint is an acceptable substitute. If it doesn't fit, keep ramming!
4) Stick your mouth over the muzzle and blow hard to get out the last of the gunk. Presto, a clean rifle.
Most methods will work. Lots of whateverness. DON'T PANIC! Remember general advice. Think very carefully about taking specific advice.
"You are going to get a plethora of advice on this question." - Alberta Tactical Rifle
"find out what works best for you." - Flying High
"feeling better about your equipment allows you to perform better with it." - Flying High
1) Do a rain dance.
2) Smear some overripened banana on a patch with a pinch of salt and shove it down the bore with a bent coat hangar.
3) Follow this up with a ball of steel wool saturated with dryer lint. Pocket lint is an acceptable substitute. If it doesn't fit, keep ramming!
4) Stick your mouth over the muzzle and blow hard to get out the last of the gunk. Presto, a clean rifle.
Most methods will work. Lots of whateverness. DON'T PANIC! Remember general advice. Think very carefully about taking specific advice.
"You are going to get a plethora of advice on this question." - Alberta Tactical Rifle
"find out what works best for you." - Flying High
"feeling better about your equipment allows you to perform better with it." - Flying High
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0) ACTS and PROVE
1) Do a rain dance.
2) Smear some overripened banana on a patch with a pinch of salt and shove it down the bore with a bent coat hangar.
3) Follow this up with a ball of steel wool saturated with dryer lint. Pocket lint is an acceptable substitute. If it doesn't fit, keep ramming!
4) Stick your mouth over the muzzle and blow hard to get out the last of the gunk. Presto, a clean rifle.
Most methods will work. Lots of whateverness. DON'T PANIC! Remember general advice. Think very carefully about taking specific advice.
"You are going to get a plethora of advice on this question." - Alberta Tactical Rifle
"find out what works best for you." - Flying High
"feeling better about your equipment allows you to perform better with it." - Flying High
"That makes absolutely no sense..."-AnchorMan
maple_leaf_eh
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
JB Bore Paste is not JB Weld
JB Bore Paste is a very fine abrasive that feels like crushed seashells or something. It works to attack the surface fouling without taking off steel.
JB Weld on the other hand is almost the exact opposite. It is an all purpose metal filled epoxy that sticks to just about anything.
JB Bore Paste is a very fine abrasive that feels like crushed seashells or something. It works to attack the surface fouling without taking off steel.
JB Weld on the other hand is almost the exact opposite. It is an all purpose metal filled epoxy that sticks to just about anything.
I save a few of the Hoppes little brown bottles... fill them with naptha and drop the brushes in the small bottle, screw the cap on and shake it well then take the cap off and retrieve the jag with my pinky, tap it a few times on a rag and restore it. When in a hurry I just leave the jag in the bottle and retrieve it the next time I use it...
the Hoppes bottles are great because you don't need tweezers to retireve normal jags...
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lineofsight
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Lower Mainland, BC
jkajfes, thanks for the tip. Don't have naptha, will try paint thinner or camp fuel (thinking fairly similar), if it works great if not then naptha it is. Cheers.
One thing I think is important is to clean the chamber and Leade as well as the barrel. There are various ways of doing this, but I have a piece of hardwood dowelling of the right size with a knotch cut in it that I put a patch in. Another way I use sometimes, like now when I can't find the dowel, which I'm sure I put in my cleaning box 
, is to use one of my pistol cleaning rods with an oversized brush in it. One place I have noticed also collects crud is the bolt lug race that the lugs cam into. Sometimes I blow this out with WD40 followed by air from my compressor. There are various things you can do to prevent blowing crud down the barrel or into the action. fred
, is to use one of my pistol cleaning rods with an oversized brush in it. One place I have noticed also collects crud is the bolt lug race that the lugs cam into. Sometimes I blow this out with WD40 followed by air from my compressor. There are various things you can do to prevent blowing crud down the barrel or into the action. fred
I try to run an oily patch down the bore after shooting - the oil film helps to soften up the carbon fouling. I run a couple of dry patches through later when I have the chance (sometimes weeks later), and do a "proper" cleaning with solvent(s) & brush when it makes sense for the particular rifle (i.e. a less-accurate milsurp gets cleaned less often, because fouling matters less in terms of accuracy).
By the way, JB Paste DOES remove microscopic bits of steel, so it's best to use it as little as necessary, but it most definitely comes in handy in terms of removing stubborn crud.
By the way, JB Paste DOES remove microscopic bits of steel, so it's best to use it as little as necessary, but it most definitely comes in handy in terms of removing stubborn crud.
