cleaning do's and don'ts

One thing I think is important is to clean the chamber and Leade as well as the barrel. There are various ways of doing this, but I have a piece of hardwood dowelling of the right size with a knotch cut in it that I put a patch in. Another way I use sometimes, like now when I can't find the dowel, which I'm sure I put in my cleaning box :redface:, is to use one of my pistol cleaning rods with an oversized brush in it. One place I have noticed also collects crud is the bolt lug race that the lugs cam into. Sometimes I blow this out with WD40 followed by air from my compressor. There are various things you can do to prevent blowing crud down the barrel or into the action. fred

There's a lug recess tool Sinclair sells #ACT-1 which uses cotton rolls, for cleaning raceways. It's expense but if you look at the picture you folks with lathes should be able to make up something similar. It does work well though.
 
camp fuel is perfect... I have use that to...


John, you were doing so well on that 12-step program for that nasty
Obsessive-Compulsive over cleaning your rifle behavior:p I hope you have not converted back. You know you still win matches if you don't clean every day.

That new Bartlein I have on the gun is working great. At least winning classes over in the US. About 250 rounds down the pipe and only ran 2 patches down her to make sure there wasn't any sand in it after shooting in a flipping sandstorm in Grayling. F class is shooting the 1/2 minute X over there at 600 yards and at long range. Wow is that a tough target.
 
Does anyone use a bore snake?
until they snap one in the bore probably yes? and they are magnets for sand and other stuff... stick with a one piece dual purpose rod which does what they're suppsoe to do and when you don't do what you were suppose to do with putting powder in the case it'll help you out there getting that bullet out.
 
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I would

Does anyone use a bore snake?

never use a boresnake. How do you get the crud off of the rope after it has been pulled thru the bore numerous times?

I personally feel it is harder on the bore than overcleaning with a rod.

With a rod you wipe it off every time you pull it out of the bore. Can't do that with the boresnake.

If one loves there barrel they will get a good quality rod and boreguide, no less.

3 sopping wet patches with Butch's

10 strokes back and forth with brush

3 more sopping patches

couple dry patches

wet patch with lighter fluid or campfuel

3 dry patch

chamber mop with lighter or campfuel

chamber mop dry

Lug recess tool with appropriate patch.

wipe crown with wet patch of lighter fluid or campfuel.

Done in just over 5 mins.

Calvin
 
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Chamber to muzzle, remove patch/jag on muzzle end, remove rod, wipe rod, if multi-piece rod check that still tight, clap three time and turn in a circle (clockwise on even numbered strokes, counter clockwise on odd numbered strokes and if you're from the east coast with a fish on your head), then repeat (the clapping is optional).

Can wash boresnakes in one of those delicates bags (better to remove wife's or your delicates from the bag first as the case may be).
 
when cleaning your rifle sould you go from the muzzle down or from the chamber to the muzzle?

Here is my Gunsmiths theory,

He cleans from the muzzle end with a brass rod. When we asked him why he cleans from the muzzle end his reply was "because it's a hell of alot easier to re crown a barrel than it is to fix the chamber"

With that being said, I clean from the chamber with a Dewey Coated Rod and a Sinclair Rod Guide


Chamber to muzzle, remove patch/jag on muzzle end,

That is the way I was doing until I put on my new Krieger barrel. Their reccomendation for cleaning is to NOT completely exit the muzzle with the patch but to poke it out partially and run it back to the chamber. Reason being is that the rod (or any part of it) will touch the inside of the barrel.

From Krieger Site:

This section on cleaning is not intended to be a detailed instruction, but rather to point out a few "do's and don'ts". Instructions furnished with bore cleaners, equipment, etc. should be followed unless they would conflict with these "do's and don'ts."

You should use a good quality straight cleaning rod with a freely rotating handle and a rod guide that fits both your receiver raceway and the rod snugly. How straight and how snug? The object is to make sure the rod cannot touch the bore. With service rifle barrels a good rod and guide set-up is especially important as all the cleaning must be done from the muzzle and even slight damage to the barrel crown is extremely detrimental to accuracy.

There are two basic types of bore cleaners -- chemical and abrasive. The chemical cleaners are usually a blend of various ingredients including oils and ammonia that attack the copper. The abrasive cleaners generally contain no chemicals and are an oil, wax, or grease base with an extremely fine abrasive such as chalk, clay, or gypsum. They clean by mechanically removing the fouling. Both are good, and we feel that neither will damage the bore when used properly.

So what is the proper way to use them? First, not all chemical cleaners are compatible with each other. Some, when used together at a certain temperature, can cause severe pitting of the barrel -- even stainless steel barrels. It is fine to use two different cleaners as long as you completely remove the first cleaner from the barrel before cleaning with the second. And, of course, never mix them in the same bottle.

Follow instructions on the bottle as far as soak time, etc. . . Always clean from the breech whenever possible, pushing the patch or swab up to the muzzle and then back without completely exiting the muzzle. If you exit the muzzle, the rod is going to touch the bore and be dragged back in across the crown followed by the patch or brush. Try to avoid dragging things in and out of the muzzle. It will eventually cause uneven wear of the crown. Accuracy will suffer and this can lead you to believe the barrel is shot out, when in fact, it still may have a lot of serviceable life left. A barrel with a worn or damaged crown can be re-crowned and accuracy will usually return.

The chemical cleaners may be the best way to clean service rifle barrels that must be cleaned from the muzzle -- i.e. M1 Garand, M14, etc. . .-- because this method avoids all the scrubbing necessary with the abrasive cleaners and the danger of damaging the crown. But again, as long as the rod doesn't touch the crown, abrasive cleaners should be fine.

Abrasive cleaners work very well. They do not damage the bore, they clean all types of fouling (copper powder, lead, plastic), and they have the added advantage of polishing the throat both in "break in" and later on when the throat begins to roughen again from the rounds fired. One national champion we know polishes the throats on his rifles every several hundred rounds or so with diamond paste to extend their accuracy life.

Again, as with the chemical cleaners, a good rod and rod guide is necessary. A jag with a patch wrapped around it works well. Apply the cleaner and begin scrubbing in short, rather fast strokes of about two to four inches in length. Concentrate most of the strokes in the throat area decreasing the number as you go toward the muzzle. Make a few full-length passes while avoiding exiting the muzzle completely, but do partially exit for about six strokes. You can avoid accidentally exiting by mounting the rifle in a vise or holder of some sort and blocking the rod at the muzzle with the wall or something to keep it from completely exiting.

This sheet is intended to touch on the critical areas of break-in and cleaning and is not intended as a complete, step-by-step guide or recommendation of any product.
 
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It will only "touch the bore and be dragged back in across the crown followed by the patch or brush" if you leave the patch and brush (jag) on the rod, I suggested removing them (which also avoids running a dirty patch through). Can appreciate though how pulling the jag back in over the crown acts like a saw tooth and is a bad idea.

Think any cleaning method is a trade off between different risks, have to decide which ones work for you. The preceding post illustrates how a gun smith and manufacturer have opposing ideas, likely both right & wrong.
 
I had one gunsmith suggest cleaning the bore by firing another moly coated bullet through it.:p It's been working for me so far.
 
What I dont get is how a boresnake could damage your barrell when a bullet is flying through it at well over 2000+ fps?

If a steel barrell is that sensitive it wouldn't last more than one round.

I am no ballistics/metallurgic/science expert but isn't steel harder than both copper, brass, and lead? I'd imagine its also harder than the nylon, and fleece that is ran through the barrell with a boresnake.

If somebody could edjumacate me i'd be super happy!

Thanks,
Rene
 
How many bench rest shooters, fullbore shooters or even smallbore shooters do you think use a bore snake? I am not saying you would get laughed off the range but I think a you would see few smirks and hear a few giggles, when you whipped out your boresnake.
Nothing beats a cleaning rod, jag and patch for serious cleaning. I would rather shoot a dirty bore than put a boresnake down my barrel. Then again I wouldn't use a bronze brush either.
 
What I dont get is how a boresnake could damage your barrell when a bullet is flying through it at well over 2000+ fps?

If a steel barrell is that sensitive it wouldn't last more than one round.

I am no ballistics/metallurgic/science expert but isn't steel harder than both copper, brass, and lead? I'd imagine its also harder than the nylon, and fleece that is ran through the barrell with a boresnake.

If somebody could edjumacate me i'd be super happy!

Thanks,
Rene

I really think the main concern is putting contaminants in the barrel that are hard and will score it or gum up the works in some way. One way this can happen is by using a cleaning device that foreign material, like grit and so on, can adhere to. Another way is to pull stuff into your chamber by cleaning carelessly and pulling stuff back into the chamber. So, you need a decent bore guide (Benchrest site can tell you about this.) and reasonable precautions to prevent grit from getting on your patch (snake, whatever) and dragged through your pipe. That being said, with reasonable care there are a wide variety of ways to clean a bore that are effective and a wide variety of fluids that are effective. imho fred
 
I think a you would see few smirks and hear a few giggles, when you whipped out your boresnake.

I really think you should look at a guys snake before giggling Maynard...:)

Nothing beats a cleaning rod, jag and patch for serious cleaning.

Have you tried Otis Technology's system for cleaning? I'm experimenting with it right now with my shotgun and it is doing a very good job.
fred
 
I really think the main concern is putting contaminants in the barrel that are hard and will score it or gum up the works in some way. One way this can happen is by using a cleaning device that foreign material, like grit and so on, can adhere to. Another way is to pull stuff into your chamber by cleaning carelessly and pulling stuff back into the chamber. So, you need a decent bore guide (Benchrest site can tell you about this.) and reasonable precautions to prevent grit from getting on your patch (snake, whatever) and dragged through your pipe. That being said, with reasonable care there are a wide variety of ways to clean a bore that are effective and a wide variety of fluids that are effective. imho fred

From a bench rest perspective, what hard contaminants would be in your barrell that you did not put in yourself i.e. Brass, Powder, Lead, Copper, Moly?

From a hunting perpsective, I can see dirt, water and so on. Yet MOST people say they carry a boresnake FOR hunting purposes only, quick cleanup in the field.

Does anybody have an answer to the effect of contaminants against steel? Has anybody seen a test of what actually affects barrell performance? I can completely believe corrosive materials/cleaning products, water, and erosion from continual firing. I could also see a steel bullets causing problems hahah :D

I hope nobody is taking my comments as aggressive, but I honestly dont have an answer and would love one that makes sense to me logically :D

Rene
 
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I hope nobody is taking my comments as aggressive, but I honestly dont have an answer and would love one that makes sense to me logically :D
Rene

Not taking your comments as aggressive at all. I am just stating I would never put a boresnake down one of my barrels. A boresnake will not clean an obstruction in the barrel out hunting but the three piece cleaning rod in your packback might. For serious cleaning a one peice rod is the only way to go.

Fred,
To be quite honest I have 5-6 shotguns and never clean the barrels.:redface:
 
:)
Fred,
To be quite honest I have 5-6 shotguns and never clean the barrels.:redface:

Some guys do and some guys don't clean their shotguns at our club too Maynard. I'm fairly new to the clays game and one does alot of shooting so I asked the guys about cleaning. One guy was even pretty aggressive about not cleaning and came right over and showed me his shotgun... :). It did look like he never cleaned it. I have found with my Citori (first O/U) that it starts to open and close more stiffly if I leave it. Have no idea at this point if cleaning the barrels affects the patterns though. But I do clean them immediately after shooting. The issue is a bit clearer with my rifles. My Anschutz 1700 performs better after it is cleaned and refouled. Another thing that is clear with it, is that there is a build up in the early part of the barrel that occurs over time and needs an abrasive to take it out. I almost passed out when a very fine (clearly one of the finest) shooter explained this to me and told me how to clean it with an abrasive. (The idea of putting an abrasive though a match grade barrel just about did me in! :runaway:) He told me how to test for the build up using a pulled 22 lead and after careful testing of the barrel, and the groups before and after cleaning, he proved to be right. On the other hand, I can go for a long time without cleaning my 6BR, as long as I keep the leade and chamber clean. I am using moly coated bullets in that rifle, however. My hunting rifles tend to shoot best fouled and cleaning and oiling is generally for protection. fred
 
I am from school which cleans barrels.
If performed with care, there is no way anyone can damage a barrel.
I use guide rod made for me by Sinclair which fits tightly in the chamber.
I use a cotton patches only once and rods are made by Dewey.
All good quality staff and it works.
Today, I went to range with my .300RUM canon and shot nice .5MOA group.
Gun was cleaned and oil before. I haven't shot it for a year and after inspecting all screws and bolts and making sure all is in order I fire few shots, adjusting my scope.
Then I let it rest to cool the barrel for 20-30min.
Then I fired nice group. After that, I am not going to clean this rifle till end of my hunting season.
 
Originally posted by Maynard

Nothing beats a cleaning rod, jag and patch for serious cleaning. I would rather shoot a dirty bore than put a boresnake down my barrel. Then again I wouldn't use a bronze brush either


What is wrong with bronze brushes?.
 
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