cleaning K31

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shores

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Hi,

I just got my K31 from trade-ex yay!
Question...this may sound stupid...
Should I even bother using the included cleaning kit, with the cleaning cord, or just use a proper 30 caliber bore brush, patches, etc.?

I can't imagine that the wire for cleaning is readily available compared to a bore brush and patch tip for 30 caliber at any firearms dealer?

Can I just use Hoppe's #9 or similar cleaning, or do I need a solvent cleaner, then a copper cleaner in 2 steps?

i read the full manual but it's based on 50 year old cleaning equipment which might not be easy to reproduce compared to off the shelf stuff.

The technique is good, but the stuff to clean it probably is easier now?

Thanks!
 
Bit of both.
Use their grease on the hot barrel at the range with a nylon bore brush.
I prefer a one piece steel or composite rod to clean at home, but I wait for at least 100 fired rounds before cleaning, Never over-clean them. I use JB compound once a year and then re-grease them.
Grease does not evaporate like oil. Prevents oxygen and Sulfur from causing rust on steel and tarnish on copper.

Expect to waste a few rounds after cleaning for it to settle down.
Make sure to check that screws which should be tight are actually tight and ones that should be loose, are loose.
 
What he said, which should be loose, which screws should be tight?

Also, where do you get the grease?
I usually only see hoppe's or similar gun oil, not a heavier grease?
 
The grease(mines dark with a green tinge )is in those 2 black plastic or steel containers in the cleaning kit, it works very well for almost dissolving carbon buildup on contact and removing and preventing rust wax on wax off all rust gone.

Like diopter said just put a bit on the plastic brush and grease the bore right after your done shooting then when you get home pass a brass brush back and forth 3-4 times and the patches should come out black from grease and carbon after they come out clean( after 10 patches) pass the greased brush through again believe me there's still more carbon in there.
 
Follow the steps in the Pre-Sightin section
http://theswissriflesdotcommessageboard.yuku.com/topic/8560/How-to-Sight-In-A-Diopter

Additional notes on:

5) Do not leave the tang screw completely loose. The recoil lug on the K31 is actually the rear of the trigger housing. If you leave it loose you run the risk of cracking the joint of the trigger housing and tang eventually.

6) Front barrel band, Some match shooters like using dry lubricant on stock tip and upper handguard contact areas with the barrel. Does seem to help with rapid-fire as the barrel heats up.
 
Use jag and clean patch to remove grease before next range session. Best lube for the bolt too.

I have some grease.
You can use most greases to the same effect.
Lubriplate seem to work well too.
Just make sure it is non-hydroscopic(won't retains water).
Original Swiss Automatenfett(Automatic Weapons Grease) seems to be Synthetic oil base with graphite and Moly.
Don't get it in yours eyes. Ride back home from the range can be very long indeed with just a bit on your eye.
 
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