cleaning kit.

[Shnitzl]

a cleaning kit is needed as I am now a proud owner of a CZ 452 22lr.

so many kits available I dont know whats best.
gun shop man told me otis pull through is great, but also I see hoppes 9 with alum rods and remington kits.

anyone have some insight on pull through compared to rods?

I do have other calibers to tend to also.

 

[mikeystew]

Some people swear by the pull throughs, and i can see why, because the rods can flex and rub the rifling which could theoretically cause wear.

I just use a .17 rod for my .22s, and every 6" or so along the rod i wrapped electrical tape around it to take up the gap so the rod will never touch the bore. Most importantly i have the tape also right behind the jag so the rod doesn't ride the crown when the patch comes out the end. I change the tape out often so it never goes gummy from the solvents.

 

[22forever]

I use a one piece rod with a bore guide 90% of the time and a bore snake for quick cleans. You can save yourself a lot of problems by investing in a bore guide. You can order one from Yodave, also one of his trigger kits, he's here in BC.

 

[stubblejumper]

If you value your rifle, avoid the multi piece rods, especially the aluminum ones. Also, be aware that the ejector on the CZs protrudes into the receiver in line with the bore, and it can scrape your cleaning rod if you are not careful.

 

[calvados.boulard]

All my LGS are out of one piece rods, and have no ETA on them. Any body have a good online source for one?

Thanks,
Cal.

 

[Shnitzl]

okay I know where to get a 1 peace alum rod for .22 if thats good? if not ill order a better rod.
anyone have detailed pictures of a bore guide? I have a lathe, so I would like to make my own out of delrin.

whats bad about a bore snake?

*edit, im assuming the bore guide should be the outside diameter of the bolt assembly, the inside diameter should be that of the cleaning rod? but how will fluid and a patch stay on, then the tip that goes into the chamber should be the outside diameter of the .22 case, with an oring to stop cleaning fluid and debris from entering the action.
am I correct on this?

 

[stubblejumper]

Avoid aluminum cleaning rods altogether,they flex too much. I also avoid boresnakes, as I won't pull the same crap through my barrel repeatedly.

 

[mg4201]

Go with a one piece coated rod and a bore guide. don't be cheap a good rod will last a lifetime. A cheap flexy rod can shorten the barrel life of even the best firearms.

 

[Shnitzl]

would like to hear thoughts on bore pull throughs such as the otis kit... im really torn.

dewy coated rods at bass pro are 59$, hoppes has stainless for 10$ I think? not coated.

 

[t-star]

shop around -59 is FAR TOO MUCH for a dewey- another case of bass pro screwing the gun enthusiast- my dewey was 29.95 a few years back, and right now it's listed at 42, and coated to boot- however, a one piece BRASS is probably about the best compromise- however it's also not convient, so i sometimes use a KLEEN BORE coated

 

[badd0g]

go with the otis system works really well

 

[Fishbine]

go with the otis system works really well

I've been looking for the Otis system but haven't been able to find - who sells them?

 

[horseman2]

With the coated rod you may find the ejector running interferance and if sharp will strip the coating off the rod..
I don't have a solution yet other than be careful.

 

[Shnitzl]

I picked mine up al lebaron when I posted this thread. they usually have them in stock. cheapest price around.

 

[Found]

Congratulations on the CZ 452 22lr, you will be happy with it. Remember 22’s see most damage from too much or improper cleaning. May I suggest a Tipton Deluxe Carbon Fibre Cleaning Rod, it’s what I use and it’s smooth as silk. The pull through type doesn’t seem to be too popular with those shooting for accuracy with high end firearms. Buy the Hoppes 9 kit to go with it as it smells the nicest.

 

[pomelum]

please people, i got a 50year old winchester that have been cleaned only with cheap rods from the Muzzle,
the crown and rails are in good shape. i can shoot a 2$ from 300feet anytime with it.

i dont think something designed to shoot metal (lead/copper) at super sonic speed backed with fire can be
ruined or even scratched with an aluminum rod under normal use.

if anyone prove me wrong i eat my hat.
my candycorn hat might come handy this time.

 

[stubblejumper]

please people, i got a 50year old winchester that have been cleaned only with cheap rods from the Muzzle,
the crown and rails are in good shape. i can shoot a 2$ from 300feet anytime with it.

And I know 70 year olds that smoked, ate poor diets, and drank a lot their entire life, but I know more people that lived the same lifestyle that died much earlier. Sometimes you get lucky, but the odds are better if you take care of your body, and your firearms. As for hitting a toony at 100 yards, it's certainly decent for a 22lr, but it's not exactly spectacular.

i dont think something designed to shoot metal (lead/copper) at super sonic speed backed with fire can be
ruined or even scratched with an aluminum rod under normal use.

Aluminum oxide is much harder than lead, and forms of it are used as an abrasive, and that doesn't take into account the grit that can get imbedded into an aluminum rod. As for the fire, it only lasts for a very,very,very short duration, so it isn't a factor in rimfires. However in overbore centerfires, the heat and pressure can ruin a barrel very quickly with continuous firing.

 

[bradofcanada]

I bought the Otis system with all the cals. available.It was a little pricey but I cant remember where i got it from.Good for everything from .17 to 10 gauge.

Heres the one : ht tp://www.otistec.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=42C53F70C0A941A2B942452A4E83C9CF

Its the Otis Elite® Cleaning System

 

[pomelum]

Aluminum oxide is much harder than lead, and forms of it are used as an abrasive, and that doesn't take into account the grit that can get imbedded into an aluminum rod. As for the fire, it only lasts for a very,very,very short duration, so it isn't a factor in rimfires. However in overbore centerfires, the heat and pressure can ruin a barrel very quickly with continuous firing.

we're not going to start a debate about it, i asked for proof all i got was the same Blah Blah Blah i got everywhere else.

have you tried to sand a bearing with cheap DollarStore sandpaper? you wont even polish the surface, its the same thing with a barrel.the minuscule amount of abrasive oxide on the surface of your rod, that with rub against the bore with so little pressure and speed for such a small time span will do nothing, dont get your electron-microscope on it, but nothing of any significant damage comparable to shooting copper jacketed bullet thru the same barrel.

here some quote from various people found on the internet ;
they are quote, not straight facts, but they can be researched on the internet.

[Tempest45 from archery.ar15.com]
"The aluminum oxide that naturally occurs on aluminum is measured in millionths of an inch. It's what turns your hands black if you handle it.
The ANODIZE on the receivers are aluminum oxide and no one seems to have a problem with the "wear" that it "causes" on the bolt carrier..."

[gonzosc1 same as above]
I can't add much here as this debate will go on forever anyway. I'm 45 and have been shooting since I was 12.
I have "never" seen or first hand heard of damage to the bore from multi peice rods.
unless you are just stuffing the rod in there without concern, as most of us are not. I wouldn't worry about it!
if your just a weekender and won't burn more then 1k worth of rounds a year, the thought should even come to mind. your bore will out last you.
if your hardcore and burn 500+ rounds a week. you will change the barrel at some time anyway in the next 2-3 years.
the extra cleaning that come with that won't make much difference.
I would ask myself one question. how many bores have you personally seen damaged from a multi peice rods??
for me in 33 years of shooting,,,,not one!!!!!!!!!!!

[DBotkin from thefiringline.com]
Have several rifles that were cleaned from the muzzle, using aluminum cleaning rods, without rod guides, for years. Last time I checked the sun still rose in the east and the rifles can still shoot better than I can. Don't stress over it.

[Ruger4570 same as above]
There are a bunch of guns made today that you have NO choice other than clean from the muzzle. Using an aluminum or brass rod will surly mitigate any chance of damage as opposed to a military type steel rod. I use a bore guide.
It is also IMPOSSIBLE for a soft aluminum rod to cut a MUCH harder steel barrel. I know, in time water turns rocks into sand, but I doubt anyone living today could live long enough to get the first grain of sand going.
I have always heard the "Expurts" claiming the embedded grit in a rod does the damage. I always wipe the rod before I start and I doubt in a lifetime of cleaning there is enough "hidden" grit to mess up a barrel. Some Myths simply won't die because too many people repeat unproven facts as actual facts.
I would submit, if you beleive a soft rod can in fact RUIN your bore, get a peice of steel and rub your rod of choice at 90 degrees over it till you damage the steel. The rod will wear out LONG before you make a mark on the steel.

 

[stubblejumper]

we're not going to start a debate about it, i asked for proof all i got was the same Blah Blah Blah i got everywhere else.

And what you have posted, to support your argument, is just more internet Blah Blah Blah.

How about some information from the people that might actually know a bit about barrels. They seem to have similar opinions, and tend to recommend the same type of cleaning rods.


http://www.shilen.com/faq.html#question11

How do I clean my new Shilen barrel?
As with break-in and using coated bullets, you will find many diverse opinions on this subject.
EQUIPMENT: Cleaning Rods: Use a good quality coated cleaning rod with a rotating handle. The rotating handle allows the brush or patch to follow the lands and grooves. A non rotating handle forces the brush bristles to jump over the lands and grooves instead of following them.
BRUSHES: Use a good brass or bronze brush with a looped end. Do not use a brush with a sharp, pointed end.
SOLVENTS:
Every shooting product manufacturer has their own miracle solvent, and most do the job as advertised.
BORE GUIDES: Highly recommended!
PATCHES: Flannel or cotton patches work the best. Either trim or fold your patch to insure that it will fit snugly into the bore, but not so tightly you have to force it. Forcing a patch causes the rod to flex inside the bore of the rifle. If you are using a coated rod, this usually won't hurt anything, but the uncoated stainless steel rods that some shooters use can batter against the inside of the bore and damage rifling.
PROCEDURE: Once again, many different procedures abound. All accomplish basically the same thing. Here's ours: With the bore guide and the brass brush on the cleaning rod, apply the solvent to the brush by dipping it in the bottle or squirting a few drops on the brush. Slide the bore guide up over the brush and insert the bore guide into the chamber with a twisting motion. Push the brush through the barrel until it comes out the end of the muzzle. Now pull the brush back into the chamber guide. This is one "cycle". Make one cycle for each bullet fired, then apply more solvent to the brush and repeat this procedure. Now, fold or cut the patch for a snug, not tight, fit. Push the the first patch all the way through the bore and out the muzzle. As you draw the rod back, the patch should fall off. Put on another patch and push it towards the muzzle until you can feel it touch your finger placed over the muzzle. Then draw the patch back to the chamber and push it once more out the end of the muzzle so that it drops off. Repeat this with one more patch and you are finished. If you are through shooting for the day, lightly wet a patch with a light viscosity machine oil to prevent or retard rust. Push this patch through the bore. Let it drop out the muzzle, and you are done.

http://www.bordenrifles.com/Barrel_cleaning_edited.pdf

Proper cleaning of a rifle barrel requires some basic equipment and materials. I highly recommend the use of 1 piece cleaning rods made out of coated steel or uncoated stainless steel. I recommend stainless steel IVY rods, Dewey Coated Rods and Bore Stix coated rods.

http://www.pac-nor.com/care/

Do's and Don'ts of Barrel Cleaning
Do's:

Use a good coated rod
Use a bore guide
Clean from chamber end (whenever possible)
Use a bronze bristle brush
Follow recommended break-in procedures (listed below)

Don'ts:

Use a stainless bore brush
Leave strong ammonia cleaning products in your bore for extended periods of time
Shoot your barrel hot enough to brand cattle!

http://www.bartleinbarrels.com/BreakInCleaning.htm

Always use a good quality, 1 piece cleaning rod (such as Dewey, Boretech, etc...). Always use a bore guide. Whether cleaning a bolt action rifle or a semi-auto, good bore guides cleaning rods are available from a number of sources (such as Sinclair International, Champions Choice, Brownell's, etc...).