Cleaning method/lubrication products, which is best??

S

supahdave

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
69   0   0
Location
Vancouver Island
Ok guys, after hrs of research, I still dont know what products are best to use to clean my cz 858. Any 7.62 corrosive shooters PLEASE let me know if you have recomendations.

The method I use now is sort of a hybrid of everything:
Time (1hr roughly)
1) windex spray down the bore and chamber right before i pack up from range, to neutralize the salts on the drive home.
2) dismantle, spray all internals and reciever with G96 and let sit, then start the ho####er method on the bore, chamber and gas port system.
3) Outers Nitro solvent on bore after water and brushing.
4) wipe all the crap off the internals, reciever etc then oil high friction points w/ Hoppe's 9 Oil, also for the bore after cleaning.

Pretty sure the hoppes oil is decent but what about g96, some mixed reviews about it and theres alot of talk about Ballistol, Brake free instead, being better at cleaning lubricating and protecting. also some ppl using it on the bore instead of the nitro solvent and then oil, in order to save some time.
Do you guys use cleaner/lube/protect products instead of ho####er/solvent/oil to speed up cleaning time?? will it comprimise the metal of the gun, or not get all salts out, will it lube properly?? Thoughts??

Confusing as hell, HELP PLEASE!!
 
I'm not an expert by any means, but FWIW I use hot water, wipeout for the bore, and g96 for bore and internals. After the milsurps are clean and reassembled, I use a little bit of Outer's oil to wipe down the metal.
 
Also - cleaning is really subjective (as you've noticed). As long as the salts are neutralized (water), corrosion shouldn't be much of a concern.
 
At home use small funnel to pour a thermos of hot water through barrel and gas port.
Spray barrel with Gigaloo follow with boresnake .
Go to bed.
Windex is for windows.
 
Windex has two benefits over hot water IMO: 1) you don't burn your hands when you grab your rifle after splashing it all over the receiver and down the bore. 2) Ammonia pretty much guarantees almost immediate evaporation. Water may lurk in nooks and crannies.

I'm still too cheap to use it though :D
 
You only grab the hot barrel once,:D
and my windows are still dirty.
I don't believe much (or any) salt gets into the lockwork so the small funnel
keeps the water out of the action.
 
Longshot84 said:
Windex has two benefits over hot water IMO: 1) you don't burn your hands when you grab your rifle after splashing it all over the receiver and down the bore. 2) Ammonia pretty much guarantees almost immediate evaporation. Water may lurk in nooks and crannies.

I'm still too cheap to use it though :D
Click to expand...

The standard method of cleaning with the corrosive ammunition is two pints of boiling water poured down the bore. A funnel with a tube that goes into the chamber will be required. The advantage of the hot water is that it flushes out the salts from the corrosive primers, it opens up the pores of the barrel slightly by expansion, and the heat drys out any small amount of water that may be left in the barrel.

If you are splashing hot water over your rifle you are not doing it right. I can see that you would get water into the "nooks and crannies" if you splashed hot water all over your rifle, but by using a funnel with a tube attached to it that enters the chamber, any inept spillage is not likely, and I really have not noticed any nooks and crannies inside a rifle bore. The water simply exits the muzzle because you keep the breech elevated.
.
 
So salts from the primers wouldn't end up anywhere in the action?! I'd rather ineptly pour hot water over the rest of the rifle body than ineptly remove rust from friction points...
 
Amonia in windex do not neutralize salt.
water in windex help dissolve salt.
Salt can't be neutralize, but can be washed out of your barrel with liquid that dissolve salt.

Best method is hot water, cleaner and oil.

There is no magics tricks, only basic chemistry....
 
Longshot84 said:
So salts from the primers wouldn't end up anywhere in the action?! I'd rather ineptly pour hot water over the rest of the rifle body than ineptly remove rust from friction points...
Click to expand...

if im in a hurry, i wont clean the action, only the barrel and gas system, ive never had ANY corrosion in the action, still good pratise to clean everyhting everytime, but the bore and gas system are the most importent.;)
 
I may be wrong, however it seems to me that these rifles are designed for long rough use...Therefore...what I do is...after firing corrosive ammo...is clean the gun...using basic commercial cleaners...after cleaning, I apply the regular amount of rem oil and then look at the gun and play with it and ensure that everything is ok...no rust etc...I haven't had a problem. What is the issue???
 
easiest method ever. i had my gun nitro treated in the first batch with Rauch. been a few years and 2000+ rounds later, not even a bore snake, no rust.

just wish someone still did this today, got more VZ's that need it.
 
Roughneck12 said:
Depends on where you live also. I live in the West where it is pretty dry and don't worry about corrosion very much, but if I lived back in NS where I am from, I would. Alot.
Click to expand...

This is an excellent point. Down in the "wet coast" it's almost always 70-90% hum and raining every time I'm able to go shooting. I see common framing nails start rusting in a matter of days, so I like being cautious in my rust prevention techniques.
 
1. Boiling hot water down the bore, action, and gas system.
2. Patches with Hoppes #9 solvent, sometiems that Outers stuff from Canadian Tire. Both work fine. Use as much as you need, some of that ammo is filthy.
3. Significant attention to the gas system with solvent and patches. That'll rust up just as fast, if not faster than the bore, make sure it's clean.
4. Spend a good amount of time making sure I get all the excess water off of my rifle. You don't want to leave it wet, the action is good at holding little drops, take note of that.
5. Lightly oil everything, I use Outers gun oil, which works fine. I'm sure most gun oils will be just as good. Note that I will not oil the gas tube unless I'm going to be storing it for a long time, it doesn't need oil and too much of it can actually cause problems.
6. Re-assemble, function check, decocking, put in safe.

The only thing I do differently for the 858 is I run a few more solvent coated patches down the bore than I do the SKS due to the fact that the 858 is not chrome lined. It's usually very clean by the time I do this and probably not at all required but it gives me peace of mind, which I feel is important.

Never had any problems on either my SKS on 858 after doing this. I usually take about two hours doing both rifles while having a beer or five and listening to music. I like taking my time and making sure the weapon would pass an inspection. I think they would!
 
Last edited:
Hot water down barrel, good cleaning with Hoppes #9, and a good coat of PWD and my rig is good to go. PWD is used by the British Military so I guess its good for my gear too, hasn't let me down yet. Hope it helps.
 
I have been using Barnes ammonia based cleaner for by my SKS and Cz when firing corrosive.
The Corrosive ammo is acidic, sulfur components make it so, PH paper proves it. Ammonia neutralises the acids as well as help in removal of lead and copper deposits from the barrel.
The hot water trick may also work, but it is more a dilution effect than neutralising. Not saying the hot water isn't effective, as many swear by it, but if you can neutralise the acids as well as remove deposits, you have saved yourself some time.
I use it on barrels and gas pistons/tubes, followed by Hoppes #9 till clean patches are seen, I then follow up with a swab of outers gun oil or more recently, CLP break free.
This works for me and was introduced to me by the fine folks at Corlanes in Dawson Creek, B.C.
 
1965BJS said:
I have been using Barnes ammonia based cleaner for by my SKS and Cz when firing corrosive.
The Corrosive ammo is acidic, sulfur components make it so, PH paper proves it. Ammonia neutralises the acids as well as help in removal of lead and copper deposits from the barrel.
Click to expand...

What is the negative affect of having unneutralized acids in your barrel? Increased wear in the bore/chamber etc?

I use it on barrels and gas pistons/tubes, followed by Hoppes #9 till clean patches are seen, I then follow up with a swab of outers gun oil or more recently, CLP break free.
This works for me and was introduced to me by the fine folks at Corlanes in Dawson Creek, B.C.
Click to expand...

Do you scrub the bore/gas tubes etc with a brass brush as usual, or is it a compound similar to WipeOut?
 
1) hot water down barrel, gas system and action
2) eds red on patch until clean
3) eds red to whipe all parts clean
4) G96 on outside of gun

7 years on this method no rust at all

Been trying out using strictly hot water followed by gunzilla on one sks and hot water followed by Mpro7 clp on another

So far I have been very happy with Mpro7. As for gunzilla. It seems to offer good protection but limited cleaning strenght.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom