Cleaning my MKII... locktight?

[ArchiePerry]

So I am cleaning my MK II for the first time and I ran into a small problem.

I removed the first 3 screws, and lift the barrel / action out of the stock.

I turn it up side down and I am in the process of removing the 4 screws that attach the trigger group and magazine slot to the barrel.

The first ( rear most) comes out after a hard twist, and it has some crap all over it. I am guessing locktight?

The second and third ( middle ones) come out no problem, they are just snug, and the 4th (front most) wont budge at all.

I pushed on it hard and it did not go, so I pushed harder and it moved only slightly. I am concerned that that one is really lock tighted or worse... some kind of glue? I dont want to break threads or anything, but i want to completely break it down and oil it up good.

Any thoughts on moving forward ? Is there a risk of damaging the threads if I really pull on it to break the glue or what ever is in there?

If I apply some solvent to the glue to remove it from the screw / threaded hole / metal parts, do i risk removing the blueing?


While we are on this topic, check out this trigger group:

Notice the strange looking metallic edges of the moving parts?
I thought maybe they had been cut and melted some how but i poked at them and its just some kind of goop, maybe a lubricant? I intend to break this down and give it a good cleaning and oiling with hoppes... or do I need to apply what ever this goop is back onto it also?


Thanks

 

[bydabeav]

I read somewhere acetone will help desolve locktite. Be carefull as the acetone will dull painted finishes,

 

[mh434]

The forward screw (like the one pictured), if I'm not mistaken, is pinned in when the barrel is installed, and is NOT intended to be removed. It will break if you force it, and replacement of the stud & pin will be required.

There are several threads on this issue at Rimfirecentral.

Here's a quote from one thread:

"The reason you had trouble getting the front stud out is because the front barrel pin is drilled & installed after the stud & actually goes through a portion of the threads. It not only secures the barrel, it also keeps the action stud in place. You have to tap this pin out before removing the stud. (Also before re-tapping or re-installing the new stud. )

You'll need a new roll pin, too. They are usually a stock item at most larger hardware stores. I think it was 5/32" x 3/4" or thereabouts, but take the old one with you & match it up to be sure.

Don't feel too bad; this is actually a pretty common mistake that many of us have already made... Just remember that you'll also need to re-drill the pin hole after tightening the action stud.

The "goop" appears to be "Neverseize", a good quality graphite lubricant. Take care - it gets everywhere!

 

[ArchiePerry]

The forward screw (like the one pictured), if I'm not mistaken, is pinned in when the barrel is installed, and is NOT intended to be removed. It will break if you force it, and replacement of the stud & pin will be required.

There are several threads on this issue at Rimfirecentral.

Here's a quote from one thread:

"The reason you had trouble getting the front stud out is because the front barrel pin is drilled & installed after the stud & actually goes through a portion of the threads. It not only secures the barrel, it also keeps the action stud in place. You have to tap this pin out before removing the stud. (Also before re-tapping or re-installing the new stud. )

You'll need a new roll pin, too. They are usually a stock item at most larger hardware stores. I think it was 5/32" x 3/4" or thereabouts, but take the old one with you & match it up to be sure.

Don't feel too bad; this is actually a pretty common mistake that many of us have already made... Just remember that you'll also need to re-drill the pin hole after tightening the action stud.

This should be printed in bold in the manual!

And here I was thinking that that last owner just really liked his locktight.