cleaning revolvers...

scottshotz said:
The inside of the cylinder is perfectly smooth except for the thin ring of damaged metal 4/5 of the way to the barrel end of the cylinder.
Here is a picture....I know it looks like buildup but I am sure it isnt.

cyl.jpg
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CAREFULLY use a 357 Mag chamber reamer and do each chamber lightly. Your problem should go away after that. - dan
 
Thanks to all....I'm also going to look at doing this....copied and pasted from another post I found....

"An old trick is to use a slotted jag, a section of cleaning rod and some very fine (400-600grit) paper/cloth. Fold cloth/paper over to give it some body, then into a section small enough to fit thru the slot on the jag(making a sort of "T") with enough length to loosely wrap around the jag and fit loosely in the cylinder. A few spins of the jag, and voila. I have used it on a drill press with great success but a hand drill at lower speed would most likely be just dandy as well. Just make sure it contacts lightly with the walls and take your time until you see how it works. A tighter fit means faster removal but may be too agressive."....from DB
 
scottshotz said:
The "scarring" is not a buildup, the metal appears to be damaged, or pitted somehow and as a result, powder buildup occurs, which can be cleaned with Hoppes 9 and a .410 brass brush. 357 ammo slides in no problem after this cleaning......Anybody else familiar with this damage?
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I don't think it's damage. I have the same issue with my 686 from shooting shorter cased .38 special ammo. After cleaning there is a ring of brighter colored metal which doesn't affect the gun's performance. By the way a great way to get rid of burn rings/powder residue from the front of the cylinder is to use "Never Dull". Comes in a small blue can from CT or other auto parts store. It's cotton wadding impregnated with a cleaner and works wonders with a small amount of elbow grease.
 
cleaning a revolver

Usually the hardest place on a revolver to clean is around the forcing cone inside the frame. I use a thin black shoe lace. Run a rag moistened with Hoppes over everything and then wrap the shoe lace around the forcing cone and pull back and forth a few times from both sides. That will usually clean it right up. I use a brass brush when I want to clean the front of the cylinder but that doesn't happen every time. A thin piece of brass like the name plate on a trophy works well for getting stuck on bits out of corners and will not scratch anything.

My 5" model 10 saw thousands of rounds of 158 grain lead and cast bullets and always came clean. It certainly did not get cleaned every time either. The chambers and bore had a beautiful finish and a couple passes with a brass brush dampened with Hoppes always did the trick.

Regards,

Outdoors
 
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