cleaning rust

I would not use sandpaper, unless it
is at least 600 , super fine steel wool
is better, and if just surface rust, you
can get a way with out rebluing.
What I do if it is real bad is strip it down,
mount in a lath and spin it and start
with 400 -600 paper and go to 1200 or 1500
than dump on some cold blue,or hoy if you know
some one doing hot blue. a mirror finish and you
will have a real nice blue. Or you can do the
easy thing and bead blast and then blue.
 
WHOA!!! For heaven's sake nothing abrasive! Chemicals, boys, chemicals. There are excellent rust eating compounds that won't ruin the fit, finish and texture of that old gun. I just used something from Permatex to eat the rust off some baddly rust-clogged automotive bolts with toothed washers. Rinses with water, and looks great. You'll still need to reblue, but pits are better than scratches anyday.
 
WHOA!!! For heaven's sake nothing abrasive! Chemicals, boys, chemicals. There are excellent rust eating compounds that won't ruin the fit, finish and texture of that old gun. I just used something from Permatex to eat the rust off some baddly rust-clogged automotive bolts with toothed washers. Rinses with water, and looks great. You'll still need to reblue, but pits are better than scratches anyday.

The best technique is going to depend on how pitted it is. Pits aren't better than scratches, who wants either? If you use fine grit paper and finish up with a progressively finer grit, there won't be any visible scratches. You can polish it to a mirror finish if you want before you reblue.
 
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I with the 0000 fine steel wool , and oil crowd.Just keep working at it until it cleans up.It might take some time, but you're young aren't you?
Scott
 
"...excellent rust eating compounds..." They'll also eat whatever bluing is left. Use the 0000 steel wool and oil or a fine brass wire wheel in a bench grinder with a light touch. Eye protection is mandatory if you opt for the wheel.
 
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