Cleaning up Barrel channel HELP!

S

Sgt. Rock

Member
EE Expired
Rating - 100%
3   0   0
I have a 700 BDL LH with a factory wood stock. I would like to remove the barreled action and clean up the pressure points and see how this will effect group size. I have never done this before or even had a barrel off. I have a pretty good wood shop at home and have great experience working with wood but I don't want to F**K this job up so can someone walk me through it. How to mark the pressure points and the method used to remove them?
Thanks guy's
Sgt.
 
I will start :D someone will finish :)
First off, a good screwdriver that won't chew up the action screws .
Start by using a piece of paper to see if the barrel is floated, mark where its not on the outside with a removeable chalk/pen whatever, just for ref point to remove material.
Once thats done, take the metal off. You may see where the metal contacts the wood by looking into the channel, if not no worries, The channel will have raised areas that are from the factory , sand away with 60 or 80 grit. This is the point where you have to lay the metal back in the action , no need for screws, it will set there nice, do the paper between the barrel and action again , mark , sand , mark etc ... till your sure its free floated.
Caution , do not sand the sides of the stock which will make a gap barrel to wood on the side.
Once you been at it for a while , look from the muzzle end at the wood to barrel fit, you will see if it flows nice from forend tip cap to rx. both sides.
Gap on the sides shoould be almost not visible. Bottom of the barrel to wood you can have a bit more space .002 maybe still not visible to the eye very much, thats what you want.
Screw it down, firm , don't over torque it, then try the paper trick again. If it snags a bit, take note of where, sand, try again.
Once your happy , use some clear finish to seal the sanded area.
Now if you want to bed the action , its better to do that first :runaway:
 
Last edited:
Hey no worries, fold the sand paper so you got a long running surface, and don't get a wavey effect where barrel meets wood on the side, very very little off of this area, You just want the paper test to run smooth without snaging . Good luck :)
Oh , and if your not gonna bed the action leave an inch untouched at the bottom of the channel where the barrel comes out of the rx.
 
Levi Garrett said:
Hey no worries, fold the sand paper so you got a long running surface, and don't get a wavey effect where barrel meets wood on the side, very very little off of this area, You just want the paper test to run smooth without snaging . Good luck :)
Oh , and if your not gonna bed the action leave an inch untouched at the bottom of the channel where the barrel comes out of the rx.
Click to expand...

You can also make a sanding block out of a piece of dowel.
Rather than sand a barrel channel I have made scrapers that work very well.
Remember to assemble the gun and check your clearences between the stock and the barrel.
 
Before you permanetly remove the pressure points I would just shim under the action rings with pieces of aluminum (pop cans work) untill the barrel is freefloated in the stock. This will let you know if the rifle shoots better freefloated before doing all the work.
 
ZuluMike said:
Before you permanetly remove the pressure points I would just shim under the action rings with pieces of aluminum (pop cans work) untill the barrel is freefloated in the stock. This will let you know if the rifle shoots better freefloated before doing all the work.
Click to expand...

Be very carefull with shims and round bottom receivers. You can damage the stock very quickly.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom