Have used moly for years in a number of rifles and thousands of rds. It most certainly has its benefits and limitations.
Moly is a dry high pressure lubricant - no more, no less. Where I found the best performance gains was in factory and surplus rifle barrels. Any barrel that was not lapped or smooth. Works awesome in pitted barrels.
In these instances, moly allows you to reach expected performance levels without excessive pressures and good accuracy. As good as you would expect from these type of rifles.
Moly DOES NOT STOP COPPER FOULING. Just makes it less of a problem.
I never found moly to give me more velocity at the same accuracy level. I always used more powder to reach the same velocity and accuracy tuning.
Moly did allow me to shoot ALOT of rds before worrying about cleaning in factory and surplus rifles. It was a benefit in any heavy copper fouling barrel.
I have yet to see any benefit in a lapped BR quality pipe. These pipes shouldn't copper foul (or very little) at the worse of times so moly offers no tangible benefit.
As to cleaning, I follow the same procedure as any other barrel. A strong powder solvent - patches start black then go grey. Switch to a very strong ammonia based cleaner - patches go blue then grey. Dry and I am done.
There is no need to go to bare metal as you will need to shoot more rds to treat the bore. Moly can be scrubbed out of a bore using JB bore brite. I have switched between the two with no issues. You just need to fire a few rds to stabilize the bore for the new bullet type.
DO NOT OIL YOUR BORE WHEN USING MOLY!!!! If you ever do, you will see what a nightmare that is to stabilize the pipe.
So, don't use moly where rust is an issue. Moly itself doesn't cause rust but leaving the bore 'bare' will.
I used to use moly in my hunting rifles but stopped because if the bore ever needed to be cleaned/dried, I would need to fire a bunch of fouling shots to get the barrel back in tune.
don't make too many friends in hunting camp when you do that.
As for barrel break in, I don't bother. Tried it both ways and never saw a benefit. In a match barrel, the bore is lapped and shouldn't foul. Anything I do to that bore only adds wear and tear. Any copper in a new match barrel is in the chambering/throat. Short stroking JB Bore brite does the same thing and saves alot of cost, barrel wear and effort.
Plus, you can easily waste the most accurate lifespan of a barrel by doing a barrel break in.
Quality barrels shoot from the first rd and if they don't, something else is at fault.
However, now that I sell barrels, feel free to fire as many rds as you feel necessary to appease the break in Gods
Jerry