Clear Coat - On Wooden stock?

Nope. I've always used tung oil. I'm going to try boiled linseed oil on a military stock. This way if you get a scratch or dent, just add more oil as there's no clear 'shell' to get damaged.
 
I used a varathane product on my 336, the wood was in rough shape when I bought it. It looks a whole lot nicer but after a time I'm finding that the finish is starting to flake off. The area going forward from the butt pad is the worst.
 
ive used poly-urethene , in various forms on lots of old " bubba " modified guns.........( canadian tire brand , helmsman spar varnish my favorite, varathane, ect, )
the matt finish ones end up looks best otherwise the gun looks tooooo shiny /plastic like. ( in my opinion. )
usually do 2 coats, let em dry through an through, , then litely rub with ooo steelwool, with off, an 2 more coats , then good to go after drying.
NOT FER COLLECTOR GUNS OR ANYTHING REALLY VALUABLE........BUT if the gun is a yard sale special, they usually look 90% better after a good clean up an a bit of re-finishing. also a good way to pass a week-end during a sno-storm .
nuff said , if this is a SIN sry in advance.........
 
I've done a couple benchrest stocks. Just took them to the local body shop
and they clear coated them after they were done spraying a car. They do
look good but has been pointed out they will get marked up easier. To me
it's no big deal if I have to redo them.
 
Birchwood casey Tru-oil works for me. Very tuff and can be touched up easily. It leaves a gloss finish but can be dulled to a satin sheen with Birchwood stock rubbing compound. Thier wax also adds an extra layer of durability and it won't yellow.:)
 
Polyurethane belongs on cheap furniture. Not firearms. Plastic coatings scratch easily and there's no touching it up.
 
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havent had any problem in my experiance, been using various brands as explained fer over 5 yrs now..........
but thats only me.
even read up on it in a old gun project -book. wich is were i got the idea to try it.
 
We have a body shop where i work, the body man clear-coated me numerous stock and then compound them to have a very high luster and no dirt on the paint, when there is a scrach, touch up and compound again (but you can't compound a lot of time as you will pass thrue the clear coat) but i have excellent result with car clear coat. When going for mat clear, i use ArmaCoat, the same excellent quality as their paint but in mat

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