Closing an O/U or SxS

There are some designs of break action guns that #### on closing or more commonly #### the ejectors on closing. Because you are compressing these powerful springs when you close the gun they will always take more force than most gun designs that are popular today. They still don't need to be and shouldn't be snapped or slammed shut. This tactic will definitely lead to premature wear and loosening of the locking mechanism and will identify you as a careless or ignorant gun owner.
 
the spank said:
Are you lubricating the hinge pin and all the contact points? That will help with making it easier to close and prevent wear on metal to metal contact surfaces. A good grease like Red & Tacky works extremely well but you have to remember to clean it off after each use and re-grease before use. Grease holds dirt and dirt can cause galling. Personally I like using Lucas Oil Stabilizer. It's heavy and sticky, does not hold dirt and does not run out between openings. A little goes a long ways and my guns open and close smooth as silk with it.
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Yes I keep all my sxs well lubricated/taken good care of...however cleaning off the grease after every hunt I might be guilty of not doing..lol.I have only 3 sxs shotguns and the fabarm is the only one that needs abit of force to lock it into place...snap might not have been the correct word however im glad this thread came up because ill be alot more mindful now when handling/watching otber people handle break action shotguns.
 
Gee whiz, if all break open shotguns were built like Ljutics, we would only have the dry vs lubed side of the discussion. What sort of confusion would there be with only a push button to open it. Try pulling on the button when closing a Ljutic.

Having owned houses and trucks for many years, I can say that if you have to start slamming doors, it's time for at least some maintenance, possibly adjusting. As has been said previously, shotguns, like house and equipment doors are designed to be closed with a firm action, not a slam.

To get way off topic, my first owned residence was a 1959, American made, 8' wide, mobile home. The front door was formed tin. It had been slammed too many times. The result was that when the latch bolt locked, the centre part of the door stayed closed. The top and bottom, however, bounced off the foam rubber weather strip, bending the metal, and caused the door to be bowed outward top and bottom. This was great in the winter! It got fixed with a length of angle iron bolted top to bottom. Of course this was back when I had better things to do, like go out and shoot my then completely, off the radar, FN FAL. That was a few years ago.

For those still following my ramblings, time does not change certain basic rules about treating equipment, machinery, or any other mechanical device. Abuse it and you will be rewarded with a failure. As for closing break open guns, mine are always lubed, and I close them carefully, but firmly.
 
Falconflyer said:
I'll take it one step further and say that house and car doors are not designed to be closed with the latch held open and then released, most shotguns are the same.
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I’m bagging what your mowing.....all this shotgun talk is making me want to do 2 things...clean my shotguns and buy another one...lol
 
the spank said:
A very good gunsmith once told me the proper way is to hold the lever in the open position, close the action then let the lever back but I've had guns pop open when fired using that method when they felt like they were locked securely so I just close them and let the lever snap back on its own. I don't slam the gun shut though. I just close it gently but firmly.
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Applying some firm thumb pressure to the lever once the gun is closed ensures the lockup is solid. And I too got the advice from a professional source, only in print not in person.
 
Lots of different quality guns and feels but really there should be no need smash the action closed or ease it in with the action release lever, but no doubt there's some that do or people that like doing so. None the less any break action from my teachings you maintain the muzzle at the ground, slip new cartridges in, safety on (for what it's worth / your opinion), raise the buttstock to close the action maintaining the muzzle at the ground opposed to lifting the muzzle to close it which should be positive but not forceful (this is where I see people flick the action shut, 1 handed is so cool right.....lol)

Millage and f**KS given may vary
 
I suspect that many guns that have "shot loose" are actually guns that have been slammed shut until they become loose. I believe flicking the barrels up hard creates more stress on the hinge pins and hooks of most guns than actually shooting them.
One method that I sometimes use is as above - to hold the fore end and barrels firmly in a forward and down position and raise the buttstock with the other hand instead of flipping the barrels up. It has the advantage of keeping better muzzle control as the gun is closing. Seems a bit odd until you get onto it. But it works well and does not put too much slamming force on the locking mechanism.
If not doing that, I just use the minimum force necessary to get the gun to lock properly as it is closed. No need to over do it, but also no need to manipulate the locking lever either.
 
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