Coating Lead Bullets

I don't cast myself (yet.....) but I buy cast bullets from various sellers (since Jet retired). I find sometimes the lube gets messy when summer shooting. Could I just boil the bullets to 'melt' off the lube and "shake and bake" to powdercoat the bullets? The bullets currently have gas checks and are sized to .001 above nominal size

yes you can boil the slugs untill all the old lube floats to the surface , let cool and skim lube off before pouring bullets from pot ( if you do it when still hot your just pouring your slugs throu the lube again. I swish the bullets in an ounce or two of methyl hyd. (common gas/air line antifreeze) after boiling as well to take any residue off
 
Actually that is the way Graphite is supposed to work best as a lube . The barrel residue fills all the pore's of the barrel and creates a "double slippery surface " between bullet & barrel, if you continually clean the graphite from the barrel you start over every shot afterwards.
 
I am stirll loading those coated bullets from that experiment. The crap still keeps building up on the seating stem. I look forward to when they are all gone.

That powder coating looks nice, but I tend to load and shoot 1000 rounds at a go, and powder coating looks a bit slow and tedious.

So far I've done 2 batches. I think PC works good but so far, for me production is no where close to fast. I would not want to sit down and do 1000 the way I'm going it now.


I had a similar issue with a bunch of 45 RN I powder coated. Talked to my Binlaw about the problem and he suggested to turn up the heat in the oven by 35C over what I did the job with originally and it should clear up the problem.

He runs a powder coating shop as a primary income source and knows what he's talking about.

It would be much easier to run a test batch through the oven again, at a higher temperature than originally used to find out and wouldn't take much time.

Batch #1 the 400F parchment paper was kinda dark. Before I did batch #2, I picked up a $10 Home Hardware oven thermometer. The 375F setting on the old Toaster Oven I used for Batch #1 was actually 425F.

I've been wondering does more 'mass'/bullets require longer the cooking time?


It can be slow if you are anal and do silly crap like stand all your bullets up spaced out perfectly. Mine get dumped from the ice cream pail onto steel mesh then a quick shake over the pail to remove the excess and then into the oven for 20 minutes. I can do several thousand in a couple hours.

Don't let them pile on top of each other and don't worry about the small spots that end up not covered because of sticking to the mesh or another bullet. You just need a seal to prevent gasses slipping past. Anything beyond that is aesthetic. Coating with PC is super easy if you don't make it hard like some seem compelled to do.

Looking to speed up my production, reading thru more posts, I read your using 1/4" mesh. I've got some 1/4" mesh, I'm going to give it a go with Batch #3.
Straight bullets in the shake? Some suggest adding plastic beads to the shake? Batch #1 & #2 I added plastic beads to the shake.


Went to the Club Wed. morning and shot a bunch of Batch #2, 38Spl loads, in my S&W 686. I cleaned the revolver when I got home, no sign of Tool Blue any where.
I neglected to say in my previous post, I did a deep clean of the Marlin 1894 357mag/38Spl after shooting Batch #1 and seen no sign of Tool Blue after shooting 357mag rounds.

One of these days when I'm not so busy :rolleyes:, I want to dig out the chrono and do a 'With PC' - 'With out PC' speed comparison.
 
Here is my take. VHT Engine Spray Paint. Here is the catch, the cast bullet should be unlubed. Yes, NO LUBE. Been doing this for years, barrel is clean, accuracy is pretty good. I am also trying Clear Lacquer, so far, adhesion and hardness is good. Forced heat drying required. An oven toaster 300 C (curing time varies) or direct exposure to 50W halogen spotlight (min power) for 6 hrs. Your curing time varies accordingly.

Some forums south of the border uses VHT heat paint for exhaust, brake calipers, in my opinion, they will all work. Just be careful with the prep. It has to be clean, no oil or wax residue before applying paint. And it does not have to be thick as it might cause problems with bullet seating and chambering. Color availability varies. It will look like Federal Syntech.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom