I admit to not reading all of this thread so if this has been said - sorry. Do rust blue, easy and more durable than hot blue. All you need is a box with a light bulb for a bit of heat and a dish of water for humidity. Laurel Forge works well and is not a disaster if you touch it with bare hands. You also need a SS brush from Brownells and a piece of abs pipe cut open to pour boiling water on the parts to turn them blue. (easier than it sounds)
Cold bluing question
- Thread starter deckerhead
- Start date
Update - no joy finding the Oxpho blueing paste
I did, however, have excellent results with repeated use of Birchwood Casey on a 1911 slide. After a good polishing and degrease, it was about 8 quick cycles of applying some blue with a cotton swab, waiting a minute, rinsing in cold water, drying off, light buff with 0000 steel wool, and repeat. Then a good clean with WD-40 and a rub with CLP.
Very happy with the final result, I should have taken some photos.
Cheers
John
I did, however, have excellent results with repeated use of Birchwood Casey on a 1911 slide. After a good polishing and degrease, it was about 8 quick cycles of applying some blue with a cotton swab, waiting a minute, rinsing in cold water, drying off, light buff with 0000 steel wool, and repeat. Then a good clean with WD-40 and a rub with CLP.
Very happy with the final result, I should have taken some photos.
Cheers
John
