colour matching with BLO

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supa

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Hello all,

Basically I have restocked my enfield as it had mk2 wood on a mk1. My concern is that I used the old top guards because they were a way better fit and the butt piece wasn't new and already stained/oiled.

I have the feeling that when I use the circa 1850 on the old pieces and re apply BLO the new pieces will not turn out the same colour and TBH, I want my wood to be darker like it is now.

I know this is worthless without pics but im at work :p

edit:

here it is when I got it, I would like to keep this colour if possible
Picture%20011.jpg
 
I don't know what to adVise you with BLO.. there are lots of better informed guy on CGN , when it comes to BLO application.....but i do know i very nice No.4 rifle when i see one...great looking NO.4:dancingbanana:
 
If they're different woods they're going to turn out differently.

That said, repeated coats of BLO will redarken all wood, and the darker you're going the easier it is to match. Not sure if you were saying that's pre or post stripping and the such, but if you have a bit of time, grab some other wood and experiment with the BLO and get an idea of how dark it gets with how many coats etc. Won't be the same as your stock pieces, but it'll give some reference.
 
You can add colourants to the BLO too, you know, stain the thing and oil it at the same time.

Mauser factory used basically a boiled-oil finish on their stocks, but the stuff was RED. That's why the reddish tinge to so many original Mauser stocks: colourant in the oil finish itself.

OR you can stain to match to a slightly-lighter shade, then oil to darken. Touchy, but it can be done. Talk to someone who refinishes furniture or who works on pianos and other musical instruments; might get some pointers.

But that IS one real nice Number 4 already!

Good luck!
 
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unfortunately the rifle no longer looks the way it did in that picture, mainly because that is the wrong wood and was causing some inaccuracy.

from what I have read here now it sounds like I just have to put my time into applying enough coats of BLO and if necessary, some colouring addition

I'll post proper pics when I get home to give you better idea of what I'm dealing with
 
ok, here are some proper pictures

this is the rifle as it is now, all the bedding is complete and besides a slight front post adjustment its doing really well . The pieces on the bottom are the new top guards and the newish butt stock all properly marked Canadian wood, not British like the top mk2 fore end.


enfield.jpg


here are the two butts... I may just keep the one thats on it depending on how the bottom on cleans up, it is also alot more dented then the attached on and would require sanding.. I dunno if I wanna sand it

enfield1.jpg


here is the fore end with the old ones attached and the new under

enfield2.jpg







Oh, If anyone has a LB butt plate for sale or knows where I can get one, that would be awesome
 
Instead of sanding, try using a wet cloth or sock on the wood with an iron pressed over top. The steam should remove most of the small to mid sized dents. Won't do anything to correct gouges though.
 
Sorry to inject here, not to be a hijacker but what is the best way to refinish Enfield wood? I have two sets. A No.1 and No.4 set. Both have Ishy screws. I want to get rid of the dark cosmoline staining and bring out the natural colour. Send me a PM please if you can help. Or post here if it would help others and the OP doesn't mind.
 
Recce21, clean the cosmoline off with paint thinner and rags (I use paper shop towels). After that you can clean some more in warm water and Simple Green soap.

Stripping the wood is easily done with Circa1850 furniture stripper.

Supa: For color matching, I use water-based stains. I know alcohol-based stains or even dyes are better but still have to find some. Find a few key colors at the store and, once the wood is clean (no oil or grease on it...), go with very thin coats and get to the shade you need.

Pure linseed oil is the only stuff that should go on the wood after that for a Lee Enfield.

You should (almost) never use sand paper. Hope this helps,

Lou
 
Hey lou - how're you fixing the water stains after using them? I've got a stock I used a water stain on and the darn thing can't go near water without having some of the stain lift. I've coated it with oil but still has problems.
 
Hmm, I can't say I've tested the stuff I worked on in the harshest conditions. Was the wood new or near new or well degreased? That may be at cause? I know sometimes some old, oil soaked SMLE stocks didn't want to cooperate so I resorted to oil based stains. The water stain needs a place to go and if all the room is occupied in the wood, it'll choose the great open space outside I suppose...
 
for an alcohol stain, I colour matched my #4 with Feiblings Leather Dye, which I found at a shoe repair store.
I used a medium brown, but you will likley require the dark brown. If you need to cut the dye to get a lighter result, you can use methyl hydrate as well (about 50/50). just rubbed it on, let it dry for an hour then applied a coat of BLO.
5df8eaea.jpg
 
Pls don't use sandpaper on an Enfield stock. Also it's not necessary to strip back the existing BLO.

Firstly you have to have your wood all the same species.....it looks like you have a mix of Beech and Walnut. Don't worry about grain or colour at this point. Raise any dents by using damp cloth and a hot iron to steam out the minor dents. Any heavy scarring should be left to the professionals. Once satisfied apply a thin coat of BLO finish...everybody has a different view on this however I like to use the traditional blend of linseed oil/turpentine/Japan dryer. Once the stock is sealed and dry apply an alcohol based aniline dry with a rag and then work the surface with a solution to get the desired colour. Let dry and repeat as often as necessary to get the desired finish.

If you need anymore help PM as I've done more than my fair share of this work.

Ron
 
thank you all for the insight. Based off of what I have read here I want to remove all the old BLO, allow the wood to dry the stain with something like this?

http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultView?D=980287&Ntt=980287&catalogId=10051&langId=-15&storeId=10051&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntx=mode+matchall&recN=172848&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber

until I have my desired shade, then proceed with some BLO?

My level of wood working knowledge is quite limited, so im just trying to save myself some errors :redface:
 
I ended up stripping the butt yesterday and I am not gonna sand it, you all can breath easier. I was amazed at how well it cleaned up with just the circa 1850. The dark vertical lines all but came out.. I may try the iron method yet.. most likely not

I ended up picking up this
http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultView?D=911392&Ntt=911392&catalogId=10051&langId=-15&storeId=10051&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntx=mode+matchall&recN=172848%204294964083&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber

I got a colour called " american walnut " I hope it turns out well, I have 2 small hidden spots where I plan on trying it first to see

if not Ill venture back for a " light walnut " and try from there.. its just gonna be harder I think do to the size of the foregrip.. we'll see today

here is what Im trying to match the foregrip too

butt1.jpg
 
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in continuing on with my blog here :kickInTheNuts:

after redoing the staining of the foregrip and applying one coat of BLO, I had this to look at when I pulled them in for the night.

The best part about having to redo the work was it actually gave it a somewhat aged look

2 more coats until sunday then Ill have a range report on how well I can bed a rifle

oiled.jpg


oiled1.jpg


I know the cover looks really dark here but its not that dark
oiled2.jpg
 
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