colt 1877 spring source?
- Thread starter Smcx
- Start date
Thx. Placed an order, but they didn't have the trigger spring.
On a side note, I'm thinking that I might try to fabricate the hand/cylinder stop spring from music wire. Anyone know of any reason why that wouldn't work? (other than difficulty)
On a side note, I'm thinking that I might try to fabricate the hand/cylinder stop spring from music wire. Anyone know of any reason why that wouldn't work? (other than difficulty)
Try www.coltparts.com they have most antique colt parts and last I checked ship to Canada still.
I made that hand trigger spring once and it was the most difficult spring I ever made, never will I do that again, it did work good and is still working,
I used the spring steel from a metal leaf rake tine . the good ones make great springs. look for em at garage sales , only buy the really good ones the tines shouldn't bend easy and spring back nice when bent.
that 1877 colt spring it has two forks that are bent at different angles very tricky to make one.
very dainty spring to so be carefull installing it.
I made that hand trigger spring once and it was the most difficult spring I ever made, never will I do that again, it did work good and is still working,
I used the spring steel from a metal leaf rake tine . the good ones make great springs. look for em at garage sales , only buy the really good ones the tines shouldn't bend easy and spring back nice when bent.
that 1877 colt spring it has two forks that are bent at different angles very tricky to make one.
very dainty spring to so be carefull installing it.
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I make 5 or 10 springs a year and make them from drill rod heated red hot and hammered to a little over final thickness then grind and file to shape. For tempering I heat them red hot and quench in water then draw them to spring temper by immersing in molten lead for 3 minutes. Lead is heated to 720 - 740 F as measured with a high temperature thermometer from Brownells. Much below 700 F and they are brittle. You can also approximate the temperature by floating a thin bright piece of mild steel on the lead as it is heating and pull the plug when the oxidation colours change from blue black to grey. If you can find one and afford it, the thermometer saves a tremendous amount of guess work. The reason that I use drill rod is that it is very repeatable where other sources of high carbon steel sometimes work and sometimes don't.
cheers mooncoon
cheers mooncoon
