Hi all, just picked up a new to me Colt revolver chambered in .22 lr. I can't find an exploded view, or schematic on Google to guide me in disassembly. The parts I can get at by removing the cylinder very much needed a wash and I'd like to open up the side plate but I want to make sure nothing will go "sproing" before I do. The cylinder release latch doesn't have an obvious means of removal so I'm thinking it comes off with the side plate? Anyone have experience with these wheel guns?
Colt Officers Model revolver questions.
- Thread starter skookumchuck
- Start date
I've only held and shot a double action Colt belonging to other folks a couple of times. So I can't help at all with how to tinker on them. However I can suggest that for cleaning and lubing that you make up a little batch of Ed's Red. Then you can soak or flush the guts of the gun through the various openings and when it drains and dries it will leave behind a light film of ATF. If you want to add in a touch more slippery stuff into the batch of ER you mix up put a dosh of some good synthetic oil such as Mobil1. Not much, about 2 to 4% by volume. Any more and it'll leave behind a sloppy mess.
With an old squeeze bottle you can suck up the ER from a container and squirt it into the gun over a drain tub of some sort. The wood grip scales being removed of course. And while wearing your protective nitrile gloves work the action with a thumb on the hammer to avoid the hammer hitting hard, it's a rimfire after all, and get the solvents and oils into all the sneaky spots. After it's well cleaned set it so it drains out the excess and the solvents can dry away. Usually this takes about an hour if you're doing it in a cool place. Some GENTLE heat can speed it up. Like a hair dryer on low set about a foot to foot and a half away.
Lots of smelly and flammable fumes with this so good ventilation is a must. But it sure is effective.
This is likely the best way to deal with it. From what I've read Colt double actions are fussy things to work on. So it's likely not worth tempting fate to take it apart if all it needs is a good cleaning. And the Ed's Red mix is excellent for cleaning spots you can't reach. A quick trip to the local hardware store for the acetone and odorless lamp kerosene and Varsol or low odor paint thinner and then a stop at Cambodian Tire for a bottle of ATF and you're ready. I find that a liter size batch works for quite a few guns worth of cleaning. It still works even when it's quite black.
To dispose of the old stuff include it with any waste oil and return for recycling.
CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
1 part GM spec ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid), This is the red stuff.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized
1 part Mineral Spirits, low odor paint thinner or Varsol (the proper mineral spirits will dry away a little faster)
1 part Acetone
With an old squeeze bottle you can suck up the ER from a container and squirt it into the gun over a drain tub of some sort. The wood grip scales being removed of course. And while wearing your protective nitrile gloves work the action with a thumb on the hammer to avoid the hammer hitting hard, it's a rimfire after all, and get the solvents and oils into all the sneaky spots. After it's well cleaned set it so it drains out the excess and the solvents can dry away. Usually this takes about an hour if you're doing it in a cool place. Some GENTLE heat can speed it up. Like a hair dryer on low set about a foot to foot and a half away.
Lots of smelly and flammable fumes with this so good ventilation is a must. But it sure is effective.
This is likely the best way to deal with it. From what I've read Colt double actions are fussy things to work on. So it's likely not worth tempting fate to take it apart if all it needs is a good cleaning. And the Ed's Red mix is excellent for cleaning spots you can't reach. A quick trip to the local hardware store for the acetone and odorless lamp kerosene and Varsol or low odor paint thinner and then a stop at Cambodian Tire for a bottle of ATF and you're ready. I find that a liter size batch works for quite a few guns worth of cleaning. It still works even when it's quite black.
To dispose of the old stuff include it with any waste oil and return for recycling.
CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
1 part GM spec ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid), This is the red stuff.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized
1 part Mineral Spirits, low odor paint thinner or Varsol (the proper mineral spirits will dry away a little faster)
1 part Acetone
BCRider is correct, just use solvents. Colt revolvers are Horror Shows inside, you definitely do not want to get involved with the lockwork- I did two of them a couple of decades ago and swore that I would never touch another! Smiths are just SO much easier to work on. Wash it out, spray in a little WD40 or your favourite lube, keep the cylinder, the yoke bushing and the hand clean and you will be good for thousands of rounds.
Dr Jim
Dr Jim
gewehr76
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
There is nothing that will fly out as soon as you remove side plate. There is a plunger with a spring that sit on the side plate and keep latch in forward position. The only spring that can come out flying is the spring on cylinder stop but you need to take out lots of parts to get to it.
Just undo the bolts and gently pry side plate, latch should just slide off. Clean and lube inside and reinstall the same way.
Just undo the bolts and gently pry side plate, latch should just slide off. Clean and lube inside and reinstall the same way.
Rather than even gentle prying I'd likely go with just rapping the fixed portion of the frame with a plastic handle screwdriver so it bumps the side cover out of place. This works like a treat for the S&W's and in fact is the approved method.
But I'd likely try flush washing it out first. If it's really gummy then even an overnight soak in a pan of Ed's Red with a cover over it to limit the evaporation.
But I'd likely try flush washing it out first. If it's really gummy then even an overnight soak in a pan of Ed's Red with a cover over it to limit the evaporation.
I agree with bc rider.Unless you know what your doing, and have the correct tools( colts have unique screw slots), it's very easy to mess up a side plate.These old colts have hand fitted side plates and are really hard to remove or replace without raising burrs on them.Ive seen quite a few with unsightly raised edges on the frame/slide plate from being removed carelessly.There really isn't a need to remove them to clean the action, rather remove the grips, #### the hammer and give the action a good flush with ren oil or something like that, follow up with a good oil and it should be fine
That's because its a Python in mufti. - dan
Brutus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
I have a lovely 1956 made Model 3-5-7. I concur that the SA trigger is some kind of artwork!
An update for anyone considering opening up their own double action Colt revolver. The reputation for being an exceptionally difficult task is undeserved. Definitely no harder than a S&W. And no rebound slide! I've developed a technique through trial and error that I now use on every gun I want to disassemble. Printout a schematic, take lots of pictures and go slow. I like to remove a single piece and replace it, then do two steps and reassemble, then three and so on until I have it completely done. After about three hours I had the Officer's Model completely apart. The only place I had any concerns was the safety and safety lever. Both are attached to the back side of the trigger and came out as one piece. They are very delicate looking and need to be handled gently. One thing to keep in mind is that the ratchet on some early models is staked to the ejector rod and trying to disassemble it will damage it. Since there are no disassembly videos of the Officer's Model on YouTube I think I'll make one and post it up. The gun definitely needed a cleaning!
